NC Cooperative Extension

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Tall Fescue

Although tall fescue does not perform well in our area, it can survive under certain conditions. Tall fescue is best suited to clay soils in shaded areas with efficient irrigation systems.

The best chance or success with tall fescue from seed is to plant between September 15 and October 15. By seeding in the fall, fescue has the best chance of surviving summer since it has time over the fall, winter and spring to develop a strong root system. In existing lawns run a dethatcher or core aerator over the area before overseeding to disturb the soil and get good seed to soil contact. After seeding drag something over the lawn to get the seed in contact with soil and water in.

If you plan on seeding a new lawn, soil test, apply recommended nutrients, till the area, rake, seed, rake or roll to get seed to soil contact, mulch with wheat straw, and water in. Keep the top one half inch of soil moist until the seed germinates and then cut back irrigation to apply 1 inch per week in absence of rainfall.

Overseeding

In warm season grasses like bermudagrass overseeding with annual or perennial ryegrass can be done to have a green lawn year around. Use a core aerator two weeks before overseeding to disturb the soil. After seeding at a rate of about 5 pounds per 1000 square feet rake or drag the area and water in to get good seed to soil contact. Water in absence of rainfall to keep top one half inch of soil moist until ryegrass has germinated. Once winter arrives we usually get enough rainfall to sustain ryegrasses without supplemental irrigation.

Pansies

Pansies can be planted in October in order to take advantage of the color for a few extra months. Since pansies are cold tolerant, their roots will be growing during the warmer days of the winter in order to be ready for a fabulous display in the spring. On the other hand, some of the hybrid pansies developed lately are heat tolerant enough to bloom in June. By planting a heat tolerant variety in fall you can really stretch your dollar. Preparing pansy beds now and get planting since October will be gone before you know it.

Before selecting pansies, it is important to analyze your planting site. Pansies like sun to partial shade, and cool, moist, well-drained soil.

So how do you decide whether a particular site is sunny or shady. If a site receives more than 3 hours of unfiltered mid-day sun, it should be treated as a "full sun" site. "Partial shade" defines a site that receives unfiltered morning sun, but shade during the afternoon or moderate shading throughout the day. Sites that are "heavily-shaded" receive little mid-day light and less than 60% of the sun's intensity the rest of the day.

Soil preparation usually starts with a soil test. Soil sampling kits are available in county offices of the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service throughout the state. Soil sampling should actually be done following soil amendment. If soils have a large percentage of clay or sand, it may be necessary to add organic material such as finely ground pine bark (<1/2 inch in diameter) or compost. About 2 inches of organic material should be worked into the top 6 inches of native soil. In clay soils, drainage is improved, while water holding capacity is improved in sandy soils. Remember that the entire planting bed should be amended to ensure uniformity.

Fertilization is an important management step that should not be overlooked. Follow soil test recommendation or use fertilizers marketed for use on bedding plants. These include both water soluble granular and liquid feeds as well as slow release products. Water soluble granular fertilizers should be applied every 4-8 weeks throughout the bedding plant season. Liquid feeds should be applied every 1 to 4 weeks according to label instructions. Slow release fertilizers should be divided into two applications. The first should be incorporated into the bed just before planting and the second should be broadcast over the bed midway through the growing season. Do not apply more than 4 to 6 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet of bed area each year.

Mulch is also important in bedding plants for retaining moisture, suppressing weed growth, keeping soil from splattering on plants, and improving aesthetics. About 2 to 3 inches of an organic mulch between bedding plants is adequate. Around the plant stems, don't apply more than 1/2 inch to prevent disease problems. Plant spacing can vary depending on the effect desired. Usually spacing range from 4 to 12 inches. Other maintenance aspects to consider are dead heading and pruning. Pansy flowers should be removed as they fade for continued bloom. With a little care including bed preparation, plant selection, fertilization, watering, and mulching, pansies can be enjoyed fall, winter, and spring.

Pruning, Mulch, and Planting

Survey deciduous trees and shrubs before they lose their leaves and prune out any dead or diseased limbs.

-After the first frost, to help prevent the spread of diseases, remove the old mulch from rose beds (toss it away-don’t compost it) and apply a fresh organic covering for the winter.

-Prune perennials back after their tops are nipped by the cold.

-Blackberry and raspberry canes that have finished producing should be cut off to make way for new canes, and this year's new shoots should be cut back to 3 feet high.

-Next spring begins now. Time to start planting the bulbs of such spring beauties as crocus, daffodils, hyacinths, anemones and Dutch iris.

-The seeds of hardy annuals can be planted now for flowers next spring. Sow such beauties as pink poppy, foxglove, snapdragons, larkspur, sweet peas, stock, corn flower, and annual aster.

-October is the time of leaves, leaves, and more leaves. Keep the lawn raked to prevent the grass from being smothered. This is especially critical on a newly seeded lawn.

Things to do in October

-Save leftover packs of seeds by putting them in an air-tight container with a small amount of powdered milk (to absorb moisture) and placing them in the refrigerator.

-Keep the bird feeder well stocked and the bird bath full-migrating feathered-friendlies would appreciate it!

-Try planting your garlic in the middle of October for bigger bulbs. Fall planting of garlic usually yields larger harvests because winter chilling promotes bulbs formation and because garlic roots have more of a chance to become established before the long days of early summer trigger bulb expansion.

-Harvest and store any remaining hot peppers by picking them and hanging them by their stems on string in a cool, dry place.

-Houseplants that have been outside all summer should be allowed to make a fairly slow transition to indoor conditions. Quick changes in environment can result in yellowed foliage and leaf drop. To avoid injury, bring plants indoors before temperatures dip below 55 degrees F. Check for insect pests before you move the plants, it is easier to get rid of pests while plants are still outside.

Storing Bulbs

Five common flower garden plants - Dahlia, Canna, Caladium, Gladiolus, and Tuberous Begonia - may not overwinter. To save the plants, lift roots, tubers, or corms about the time of our first killing frost. They may be dug just after foliage dries. Dig deep enough so that part of the plant will not be snapped off when lifted out of the soil. Leave soil around Dahlia tubers, Canna, and Caladium roots.

Store in a garage or other building until soil dries and falls away from plant parts. Shake soil off roots and tubers, and cut away dried stem. Discard immediately any plant parts that show soft spots or disease.

Place tubers and roots in old sawdust or peatmoss - in a flat box or plastic bag with holes for ventilation. Store in a dry, cool place such as a basement. Do not store on back porch or in garage. These plants cannot withstand freezing. Also, store away from danger of being eaten by mice, squirrels, etc.

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Recommendations for the use of chemicals are included in this publication as a convenience to the reader. The use of brand names and any mention or listing of commercial products or service does not imply endorsement by the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service nor discrimination against similar products or services not mentioned. Individuals who use chemicals are responsible for ensuring that the intended use complies with current information about usage and examine a current product label before applying any chemical. For assistance, contact an agent of the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service.