Be on the lookout for bagworm larvae beginning active feeding on junipers, leyland cypress, arbovitae and other needle-leaved evergreens. Bagworms are 1/8 to almost 2 inches long depending on age. The head and forward parts are dark and hardened and the rest is paler and soft. Each bagworm is covered by a bag made of white silk with bits of the host plant spun onto the outer surface. Young bagworms that have not enclosed themselves in their bags can be controlled with acephate (Orthene), Bacillus thuringiensis, carbaryl (Sevin), diazinon, or malathion. When bagworms have already enclosed themselves in their bags, all we can do is remove them my hand and destroy them to prevent next years crop. No need to apply pesticides then. So if you have some plants that have a few bagworm bags on them, now is the time to be checking for bagworms and treating if necessary.

Japanese Beetles

As June rolls around again be on the lookout for Japanese beetles.About 1/2 inch long, Japanese beetles are a shiny, metallic green with coppery brown wing covers that extend almost to the tip of the abdomen. Small tufts of white hairs occur at the tip of the abdomen and along each side. Eggs are translucent white to cream and elliptical and about 1/16 inch in diameter when first laid. In a few days, the egg becomes more spherical and doubles in size. Grubs are white, slightly curled and have yellow-brown heads. Grubs are about 1 inch long when mature. Unlike other grubs found in turf, it has two rows of spines which form a "V" on the underside of the last abdominal segment. The pupa is approximately 1/2 inch long and 1/4 inch wide, and it gradually turns light brown and then develops a metallic green cast.

For home use, carbaryl (Sevin), malathion, imidacloprid (Merit) are good choices. Roses or shrubs may also be protected by covering with light netting. Handpicking adults from plants is an almost hourly battle. Japanese beetle traps may catch up to 75% of the beetles that approach them. Traps may lower beetle populations from 30% (1 trap per acre) up to 39% (10 traps per acre) if placed throughout a neighborhood. The trapped beetles must be emptied from the traps every two days to prevent them from rotting and releasing ammonia which is repellant to other Japanese beetles. Traps are commercially available. The traps are much more effective in attracting Japanese beetles than in trapping them. Consequently, traps should be placed as far away from the plants to be protected as possible. Traps, alone, are not likely to give satisfactory protection to plants being eaten by adult Japanese beetles and pesticides may be required, anyway.

Maintaining Healthy Dogwood Trees

I get quite a few calls about problems with dogwood trees. Following these ten steps should help you maintain healthy dogwood trees:

1. Know the diseases and other problems commonly affecting dogwood. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/notes/Ornamental/odin23/od23.htm
2. Select healthy trees to plant. Avoid purchasing or moving diseased plants from one area to another. Purchase trees from a reputable, inspected nursery. Avoid transplanting trees from the "wild", especially from mountainous areas.
3. Select good planting sites to promote vigor and rapid drying of foliage. Avoid sites where prolonged high moisture situations prevail.
4. Use proper planting techniques. Dogwoods grow best in a soil high in organic matter. Prepare a hole about 18 inches deep and 3 feet in diameter, and fill it with a mixture containing one-third organic matter and two-thirds soil. Organic matter, such as leaf mold or pine bark, is especially important in heavy clay soils. Set the tree at the same soil level as in the container.
5. Use a maximum of 3-4 inch deep mulch in an approximate 3-foot radius around established trees, ensuring that mulch does not contact the trunk. Avoid using dogwood chips and leaves as mulch, since they may harbor disease organisms.
6. Prune and completely remove dead wood and leaves yearly. Avoid flush cuts! Prune out and destroy epicormic growth (trunk or water sprouts) in late summer.
7. Water weekly in the morning during dry periods. Caution: Do not wet foliage.
8. Fertilize according to need based on soil analysis. Do not overfertilize!
9. Use proper insecticides/fungicides where and when appropriate and legal. Consult extension personnel for currently labeled pesticides.
10. Avoid mechanical and chemical injuries to trees, especially lawnmower and string-trimmer wounds to the tree base.

These can provide entry for pathogenic fungi. Also manage any insect pest that is potentially damaging.

Lawn Maintenance

Warm season grasses like Bermudagrass, Centipedegrass, and Zoysiagrass, and St. Augustine will continue active growth as temperatures remain in the 90's. Mow warm season grasses so you only remove 1/3 of the growth. Here are a few examples:

Grass Type:	Mowing height:	Mow when grass reaches:
Bermudagrass	1.5 inches	2.25 inches
Centipedegrass	1.5 inches	2.25 inches
St. Augustine	3 inches	4.5 inches
Zoysiagrass	1.5 inches	2.25 inches

Fertilization for warm season grasses can begin in May also. See the chart below for recommendations:

Grass Type:	Type of fertilizer:	Fertilizer amount/1000 sq. ft.
Bermudagrass	16-4-8	6 pounds
Centipedegrass	15-0-14 or 5-2-20	3 lbs. 15-0-14 or 10 lbs. 5-2-20
St. Augustine	16-4-8	3 pounds

If you have never aerated your warm season lawn, now is the time to do it. Core aeration helps water infiltration, relieves compaction, and helps grass have healthy roots and blades. Core aerators, the type that remove soil plugs and deposit them on the soil surface work best. Aerate about two days after a soaking rainfall or irrigation for best results. Leave the soil cores on the surface. They will break and crumble and slowly filter their way back to the holes, creating and ideal area for new grass root growth.

Summer annual weeds are actively growing now. June is great time to spray these weeds before they get completely out of hand. Apply a herbicide labeled for broadleaf weeds that is safe for the type of grass you are growing. Read and follow the label instructions for mixing and applying. The longer you wait, the tougher those weeds are to control.

Things to do in June:

A trigger nozzle or on/off valve on the hose is a real water-conserving device in the yard and garden. An open hose end pours out many gallons of water where it is not needed.

Birds or squirrels will generally not be scared away by scarecrows. Instead, try tying pieces of glass, colored cloth or tin to loose strings so the wind can blow them and clash them together. Random motion is the key to alarming the birds and squirrels away from the garden or house.

When dead or damaged branches are found on shade trees, prune them out immediately.

Mid-to late-June is an excellent time to take softwood cuttings of shrubs to start new plants. Some shrubs propagated in this manner are spirea, boxwood, and azalea.

To protect bees that pollinate many of our crop plants, spray pesticides in the evening after bees have returned to their hives.

Lacebugs feed on azaleas, pyracantha, and other woody plants, causing a gray, blanched or stippled appearance on the upper surface of the leaves. Take steps to control them as soon as you notice damage.

Prune bigleaf or florist hydrangea when flowers fade.

June is the only month to fertilize centipede grass, using a 1/2 pound of nitrogen based fertilizer per 1000 sq. ft. Call us at the Extension office to help you decipher soil reports and help determine fertilizer needs.

Remember that not all insects in the garden are pests. Many like the ladybug can be very beneficial. Be sure to properly identify insects as pests and to check with your local Extension agent before treating.

Climbing roses don't really climb - they just have long canes which require support. You'll need to loosely tie the canes to trellises with broad strips of material.Do not use wire, as it can damage the cane.

Remember to keep record of the varieties you grow. By knowing the specific name of each crop, you can ask for those varieties next season if you like it, or avoid it if it wasn't up to par.

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Recommendations for the use of chemicals are included in this publication as a convenience to the reader. The use of brand names and any mention or listing of commercial products or service does not imply endorsement by the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service nor discrimination against similar products or services not mentioned. Individuals who use chemicals are responsible for ensuring that the intended use complies with current information about usage and examine a current product label before applying any chemical. For assistance, contact an agent of the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service.