|
How-To |
North
Carolina State University College of Agriculture & Life Sciences North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service |
|
Extension Agent Agriculture-Consumer Horticulture |
| Divide Perennials |
Start Seeds |
Prune Crape Myrtles |
Prune in the Springtime |
| Water Your Summer Lawn |
Use Pesticides Properly |
Handle Deer |
Help Damaged Trees |
| Harvest Seeds |
Build a Cold Frame |
Plant Trees and Shrubs |
Fall division should take place around September. Allow at least four to six weeks before the ground freezes for the plants to become established. Spring division is ideally done in the early spring as soon as the growing tips of the plant have emerged. Spring divided perennials often bloom a little later than usual.
Never divide perennials on hot, sunny days. Wait until a cloudy day, ideally with several days of light rain in the forecast.
Most perennials should be divided every three to five years. Some perennials such as chrysanthemums and asters may need to be divided every one or two years or they will crowd themselves into non-flowering clumps of leaves and roots. Bleeding hearts and peonies may never need to be divided unless you want to increase your stock.
Signs that perennials need dividing are flowers that are smaller than normal, centers of the clumps that are hollow and dead, or when the bottom foliage is sparse and poor. Plants that are growing and blooming well should be left alone unless more plants are wanted.
Water plants to be divided thoroughly a day or two before you plan to divide them. Prepare the area that you plan to put your new divisions in before you lift the parent plant.
Prune the stems and foliage to 6 inches from the ground in order to ease division and to cut down on moisture loss.
Use a sharp pointed shovel or spading fork to dig down deep on all four sides of the plant, about 4 to 6 inches away from the plant. Pry underneath with your tool and lift the whole clump to be divided. If the plant is very large and heavy, you may need to cut it into several pieces in place with your shovel before lifting it.
Shake or hose off loose soil and remove dead leaves and stems. This will help loosen tangled root balls and make it easier to see what you are doing.
Perennials have several different types of root systems. Each of these needs to be treated a bit differently.
Spreading root systems have many slender matted roots that originate from many locations with no distinct pattern. Plants with spreading root systems include asters, bee balm, lamb’s ear, purple cornflowers and many other common perennials. These can crowd out their own centers. Some can be invasive unless divided frequently. They can usually can be pulled apart by hand, or cut apart with shears or knife.
Large, vigorous plants with
thickly intertwined roots may need forceful separation with digging
forks. Put two forks back to back in the center of the plant and use
them to pry the pieces apart.
Divide the plants into clumps of 3-5 vigorous shoots each. Small or weak and woody divisions should be discarded. Discard the center of the clump if it is weaker than the outside edges.
CLUMPING ROOT SYSTEMS originate
from a central clump with multiple growing points. Many have thick
fleshy
roots. This group includes astilbes, hostas,
daylilies and many ornamental grasses.
It is often necessary to cut through the thick fleshy crowns (the central growing area between the roots and the leaves and stems of the plant) with a heavy, sharp knife. You can also pry apart these roots with back to back digging forks.
Keep at least one developing eye or bud with each division. If larger plants are wanted, keep several eyes.
Rhizomes are stems that grow horizontally at or above the soil
level. Bearded irises are the most common perennial with this 
type of root system. Divide irises any time between a
month after flowering until early fall.
Cut & discard the rhizome sections that are 1 year or older. Also, inspect rhizomes for disease and insect damage. Damaged rhizomes should be trimmed and treated, or discarded if too bad.
Iris divisions should retain a few inches of rhizome and one fan of leaves, trimmed back halfway. Replant with the top of the rhizome just showing above soil level.
Dahlias are an example of perennials with tuberous roots. The tubers should be cut apart with a sharp knife. Every division must have a piece of the original stem and a growth bud attached. After division they can either be replanted or stored for spring planting.
If the root mass is very large, or tight and tangled, you can raise the clump 1 to 2 feet off the ground and drop it. This should loosen the root mass, and you can pull the individual plants apart. This is not a good method for plants with brittle roots such as peonies.
Plants that have very tough, vigorous root systems (agapanthus, red-hot pokers & ornamental grasses) may have to be divided with a shovel, saw or ax. Vigorously hose off soil to make the root system easier to work with.
Some plants resent being divided and it should be avoided if possible. These include butterfly weed (Asclepias), euphorbias, oriental poppies, baby’s breath (Gypsophila), gas plant (Dictamnus albus), Japanese anemones, false indigo (Baptisia) and columbines (Aquilegia).
Lenten and Christmas roses (Helleborus) are very difficult to move when more than a few years old. Usually you can find tiny seedlings around the base. These are easy to move.
Lavender cotton (Santolina chamaecyparrus) and several other perennials are actually small woody shrubs and should not be divided. These include perennial candytuft (Iberis sempervirens), lavender, rosemary, southernwood (Artemesia abrotanum), and several other artemesias. These plants often have rooted layers (branches that have developed roots while touching the soil). The layers can be cut off the parent plant, dug up and replanted as though they were divisions.
Never allow divisions to dry out. Keep a pail of water nearby to moisten divisions until they are planted. Trim all broken roots with a sharp knife or pruners before replanting.
Plant the divided sections immediately in the garden or
in containers. Replant divisions at the same depth they were
originally. Firm soil around the roots to eliminate air pockets. Water
well after planting.
WHEN AND HOW TO DIVIDE SOME COMMON PERENNIALS
| Go
to http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1150.htm
and scroll to the bottom to see a chart of what season to divide,
how often to divide and method of division to use for the most common
perennials. |
| Table 1. Germination information for selected plants:
approximate time to seed before last frost, days for germination,
optimum temperature for germination, and light requirements.
(It's a large table so go to http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-8703.html to view it) |
Water -- The first step in germination is absorption of water. An adequate, continuous supply of moisture is important to ensure germination. Once germination has begun, a dry period can kill the embryo.
Temperature -- Affects the germination percentage and the rate (speed) of germination. When germination temperatures are listed, they are usually optimum temperatures. Generally, 65oF to 75oF is best for most plants.
Oxygen -- The medium in which the seeds are sown should be loose and well aerated. If the oxygen supply during germination is limited or reduced, germination can be severely retarded or inhibited.
Light -- Some plants germinate in either light or dark conditions. Seed catalogs and seed packets often list germination and cultural information for particular plants. When sowing light-requiring seeds, sow them on the medium surface. Supplemental light can be provided by fluorescent fixtures suspended 6 to 12 inches above the medium for 16 hours a day.
Media
The germinating medium should be rather fine in texture and of uniform
consistency, yet well aerated and loose. Purchase commercial potting
media containing fine particle pinebark, sphagnum peat moss, and
perlite. Do not use garden soil to start seedlings; it is not sterile,
it is too heavy, and it does not drain well. Commercial mixes have low
fertility, so seedlings must be watered with a dilute fertilizer
solution soon after germination and emergence. Use 1/4 to 1/2 of the
recommended rate.
Containers for Germination and
Growth
Plastic cell packs can be purchased or reused if sterilized.
When using cell packs, each cell holds a single plant. This method
reduces the risk of root injury when transplanting. Peat pellets, peat
pots, or expanded foam cubes can also be used for producing seedlings.
Resourceful gardeners often use cottage cheese containers, the bottoms
of milk cartons or bleach containers. Make certain that adequate
drainage holes are made in the bottoms of the containers and the
containers are sterile.
To sterilize previously used containers, wash them to remove any debris and then immerse them in a solution of 1 part chlorine bleach to 9 parts water for 5 minutes and allow to dry.
Seedlings are often
started indoors 4 to 12 weeks before the last spring frost. A common
mistake is to sow the seeds too early and then attempt to hold the
seedlings under poor environmental conditions (light and temperature).
When sowing seeds, fill the container to within 3/4 inch of the top with moistened, growing medium. For very small seeds, use a fine, screened medium such as a layer of fine vermiculite for the top 1/4 inch. Firm the medium at the corners and edges with your fingers or a block of wood to provide a smooth and level surface.
For medium and large seeds, make furrows 1 to 2 inches apart an 1/8 to 1/4 inches deep across the surface of the planting medium. Sowing in rows improves light and air movement. If damping-off disease occurs, there is less chance of it spreading. Seedlings in rows are easier to label and handle at transplanting than those that have resulted from broadcasting seeds. Sow the seeds thinly and uniformly in the rows by gently tapping the packet of seed. Cover the seeds lightly; a suitable planting depth is usually about two to four times the minimum diameter of the seeds.
Extremely fine seed such as petunia, begonia, and snapdragon should not be covered, but simply dusted on the surface of the germinating medium and watered with a fine mist. If these seeds are broadcast, strive for a uniform stand by sowing half the seeds in one direction, then sowing the remaining seeds in the other direction.
Large seeds are frequently sown directly in a small container or cell pack; this eliminates the need for early transplanting. Usually 2 or 3 seeds are sown per cell. Later, thin them to allow only the most vigorous seedling to grow.
Watering
Moisten the planting medium thoroughly before planting. After seeding,
spray with a fine mist or place the containers in a pan or tray that
contains about 1 inch of warm water. Avoid splashing or excessive
flooding, which might displace small seeds. When the planting mix is
saturated, set the container aside to drain. The medium should be moist
but not overly wet.
The seed flats must remain sufficiently moist during the germination period. Excessive moisture, however, can lead to damping-off or other disease or insect problems. Place the whole flat or pot into a clear plastic bag to maintain moisture. The plastic should be at least 1 inch above the soil. Keep the container out of direct sunlight; otherwise, the temperature may increase and injure the seeds. Many home gardeners cover the flats with panes of glass instead of using a plastic bag. Be sure to remove the plastic bag or glass cover when the first seedlings emerge.
After the seeds have germinated, move the flats to a well-lighted location; the temperature should be 65°F to 70°F during the day and 55°F to 60°F at night. This will prevent soft, leggy growth and minimize disease problems. Some crops, of course, may grow best at different temperatures.
Seedlings must receive bright light after germination. Low light intensity will result in weak, spindly, pale green seedlings. Place them in a south-facing window. If a large, bright location is not available, place the seedlings under fluorescent lights. Use two, 40-watt, cool-white fluorescent tubes or special plant growth lamps. Position the plants 6 inches from the tubes and provide 16 hours of light daily. As the seedlings grow, the lights should be raised.
As the seedlings grow, they will require more space. Plants
not seeded in individual containers must be transplanted. A common
mistake is to leave the seedlings in the flat too long. The ideal time
to transplant young seedlings is when the first true leaves appear,
usually 2 to 3 weeks after seeding.
Containers should be economical, durable, and make efficient use of available space. Individual pots or plastic cell packs can be used. Another possibility is compressed peat pellets which expand to form compact individual units when soaked in water. They waste no space, do not fall apart as easily as peat pots, and can be set out directly in the garden. If you wish to avoid transplanting seedlings altogether, compressed peat pellets are excellent for direct sowing.
Dig up the small plants carefully with a knife or plant label. Let the group of seedlings fall apart and pick out individual plants. Ease them apart gently; avoid root injury in the process. Handle small seedlings by their leaves, not their delicate stems (Figure 1). Punch a hole in the medium into which the seedling will be planted. Plant a seedling at the same depth it was growing in the seed flat. Firm the medium and water gently. Newly transplanted seedlings should not be placed in bright, intense light for a few days after transplanting; shading may be needed. Keep them away from sources of direct heat. Continue watering and fertilizing as in the seed flats.
Figure 1.
Hardening Plants
Hardening is the process of conditioning a plant for growth
outdoors. If plants produced inside are planted outdoors without
undergoing a hardening period, their growth could be severely limited.
Hardening is most critical with early spring crops, when adverse
climatic conditions can be expected.
Hardening is accomplished by decreasing temperature and relative humidity gradually, and reducing water. This procedure results in accumulation of carbohydrates and thickening of cell walls. A change from a soft, succulent type of growth to a firmer, harder type is desired.
The process should be started at least 2 weeks before planting in the garden. Place plants outside in a protected area on warm days, and increase the length of exposure gradually. Do not put tender plants outdoors on windy days or when temperatures are below 45°F. Even cold-hardy plants will be injured if exposed to freezing temperatures before they are hardened.
The hardening process is intended to
slow plant growth; but if carried to an extreme, significant damage can
occur. For example, cauliflower will produce thumb-size heads and fail
to develop further if hardened too severely; cucumbers and melons will
stop growing entirely.
If an intermediate
size of shrub is desired, prune moderately by removing the twiggy
growth smaller than pencil size. This annual pruning will stimulate
more vigorous growth in the spring.
The practice of chopping off the tops of crape myrtle has become
very commonplace. Many people believe that it is required to promote
flowering; some prune because the plant is too large for the space
provided; others see their neighbors doing it and feel the need to
follow suit. The type and amount of pruning depends on the
desired shape and size of the plant.
How do I revive a crape murdered tree? Check this
out. http://www.ag.auburn.edu/landscape/STGOmarch99.html
How to avoid crape murder in the first place ....
Select a crape myrtle that will fit the space you have for it.
The best way to keep a crape myrtle at a manageable height and at a
particular size is to plant a known cultivar that will mature at the
desired height and spread -- and then don't prune it!
There are many new cultivars in different sizes and colors. The
options allow the crape myrtle to display its graceful beauty with
minimal pruning.
3-6' Tall at Maturity (DWARF) ‘Hope’ (white) ‘Ozark Spring’ (lavender) ‘Victor’ (red) Unfortunately, the compact crape myrtles are NOT resistant to powdery mildew - a fungus that attacks and distorts the leaves. |
5-15' Tall at Maturity (SEMI-DWARF) ‘Acoma’ (white flowers) ‘Hopi’ (light pink) ‘Comanchee’ (dark pink) ‘Zuni’ (lavender) ‘Tonto’ (red) These ARE resistant to powdery mildew. |
ONE LAST THING - You may feel the need to improve the appearance by removing the seed heads in late winter or early spring before growth begins. This is recommended only if they are within reach. Once this becomes a tall, mature plant, allow nature to take its course – the seeds will drop, the plant will bloom, and the natural grace of the plant has been retained.
To view the original articles - Go to Clemson University: http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1009.htm
and
University of Georgia: http://www.ces.uga.edu/pubcd/L331.htm
With the approach of summer, you may have concerns about how to maintain an attractive lawn without selling off your first-born :) to pay for the water bill.
Here's an amazing fact. It takes 640 gallons of water to apply one inch of water/1000 sq. ft.
When does your lawn need water?
When the grass blades are just starting to curl and your
footprints remain on the lawn when you walk on it.
Isn't it better to water a little
bit every day?
No. Watering too often encourages a lawn with a shallow root
system that cannot handle drought well. It's recommended to WATER
DEEPLY AND INFREQUENTLY.
How much water do I apply?
The amount of water to apply depends on the soil type and its moisture
content:
As the summer stress period approaches, gradually stop watering the lawn. Do not fertilize. This helps the turf grass plant adjust to drier conditions and increases survival. Watering heavily and then abruptly stopping the application of water makes the grass much less able to endure extended warm, dry periods.
Despite these efforts, if drought is severe, apply one
inch of water every three to four weeks. This keeps the plant from
dehydrating beyond a point of no recovery. Shorter intervals may be
needed on sandy soils or during prolonged periods of high temperature.
Once cooler temperatures and natural rainfall return in late summer or
early fall, resume regular irrigation practices.
Also remember ....
*Check for leaks in your sprinkler system.
*Sprinklers can be fit with rain sensor devices to prevent them from
coming on when they are not needed.
*Mow grass to the most appropriate height for the weather
conditions. Contact me for a 'lawn calendar' for your type of
grass to learn what is your lawn's appropriate mowing height. Leaving
grass slightly higher in drier weather allows the soil to retain more
moisture. It is also important to keep mower blades sharp during drier
periods.
Use
Pesticides As A Last Resort
Many pest problems can be resolved without the use of pesticides.
Removing or excluding pests from food, water, and hiding places can
often eliminate the problem.
Select
The Proper Pesticide
This includes the type of insecticide and the way it is formulated
(dust, spray, aerosol, etc.). Check with knowledgeable individuals (ie.
your county agent - that's me!) and good information sources to select
the appropriate chemical.
Read The Entire Label - This is very important!
Understand the product label before you buy, mix, apply, store, or
dispose of a pesticide. Make sure the label includes the pest you want
to control, the site where you want to apply it, and the equipment you
will need to make the application. Understand the signal words and
safety precautions, and know what to do in case of an accidental
poisoning or pesticide emergency. If you do not understand the label
entirely, consult your county Extension agent.
Buy
Only The Amount Of Pesticide You Need
Once opened, many pesticides lose some of their potency after a few
months of storage. Buying too much insecticide at once could result in
poor control later on and complicate proper disposal procedures.
Prepare
The Site For Safe Pesticide Use
Follow instructions on removing people and pets from the application
area. Remove all objects that might be damaged or contaminated by
pesticides from the areas to be treated. Make sure food, food utensils,
food preparation areas, and eating areas are properly removed or
covered. Do not replace them or use the area until the waiting time
specified on the label has elapsed.
Prepare Yourself For Safe Pesticide
Make sure you have or can get the kinds of application and personal
protective equipment and clothing specified on the label. Wear this
equipment when opening, mixing, and applying the pesticide. Open, mix,
and dilute the pesticide outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. After
applying a pesticide, shower and shampoo thoroughly. Wash any
contaminated clothing separately from the family laundry.
Apply
Pesticides Safely
Follow all use directions carefully. Use only the amount directed at
the time and under the conditions specified. Use pesticides only for
the purpose(s) listed. Never apply pesticides outdoors on windy or
rainy days. When treating food plants and gardens, observe the
time-to-harvest waiting period on the label. Never eat, drink, or smoke
while using pesticides. You may not use "Restricted Use Pesticides"
unless you are a certified applicator licensed by the North Carolina
Department of Agriculture. If you spill a pesticide, clean it up
immediately according to the label directions; do not merely try to
wash it away.
Properly
Store Pesticides
Store pesticides and other dangerous household chemicals securely so
that children, pets, and others who might not understand the label
cannot reach them. Do not store pesticides near wells or sink holes. Do
not store pesticides in locations affected by temperature extremes.
Never put pesticides into food or drink containers. Keep pesticides in
their original container with a readable label.
Properly
Dispose Of Pesticides
Dispose of waste pesticides and pesticide containers according to the
label and current local and state laws. To dispose of less than a full
container of formulated liquid, leave it in the original container,
securely capped. Wrap the container in several layers of newspaper, tie
securely, and place in a covered trash can for routine collection.
Concentrated liquids in containers up to a gallon should be poured onto
an absorbent material, such as oil dry, kitty litter, or saw dust,
shoveled into a plastic bag, and placed in the trash.
Individual packages of dry formulated pesticides, such as granules or dusts, can be wrapped in several layers of newspaper, placed in a plastic bag, tied at the top, and placed in the trash.
Empty pesticide containers should be triple rinsed, and the rinse water used as spray material for pest control purposes. Empty, tripled-rinsed containers can be placed in household trash.
Aerosols should be discarded in the household trash only when completely empty. Before discarding, spray the contents outside away from humans and pets. Never put pressurized cans, even empty ones, in a trash compactor or incinerator.
Be
Aware Of Regulations And Changes
Pesticides that have been banned by the EPA may be on the Hazardous
Waste List and cannot be placed in household trash. Contact your county
Extension agent or call the Alabama Department of Environmental
Management, 334-271-7726, for specific instructions on banned
pesticides or pesticides classified as hazardous waste.
Check out this list of regional landscape plants that deer have varying affection for. Be warned that no plant is deer proof, but these lists provide some guidance as to whether the plant has a fighting chance against the deer. If you have deer woes, selecting plants that are not so tempting to the deer is one step towards getting green things to grow in your yard.
Plants Seldom Damaged
| Botanical Name |
Common Name | Botanical Name |
Common
Name |
Botanical Name |
Common Name |
| Berberis |
Barberry |
Crataegus spp. |
Hawthorn |
Pittosporum tobira |
Pittosporum |
| Betula sp. | Birch | Forsythia spp. |
Forsythia | Podocarpus macrophyllus | Podocarpus |
| Buddleia davidii | Butterfly bush | Gleditsia triacanthos | Honey Locust | Pyracantha spp. | Firethorn |
| Buxus spp. | Boxwood | Ilex cornuta | Chinese Holly | Robinia pseudocacia | Black Locust |
| Cotinus coggygria | Smoketree | Ilex glabra | Inkberry
|
Sassafras albidum |
Sassafras |
| Cytisus scoparius | Scotch Broom | Juniperus spp. | Juniper | Syringa vulgaris |
Lilac |
| Elaeagnus angustifolia | Russian Olive | Kalmia latifolia | Mountain Laurel | Taxodium distichum |
Bald Cypress |
| Ilex opaca | American Holly | Kerria japonica | Japanese Kerria | Thuja spp. |
Arborvitae |
| Leucothoe sp. | Leucothoe | Ligustrum spp. | Privet | Vinca minor |
Periwinkle |
| Picea pungens | Norway Spruce | Mahonia spp. | Mahonia | Yucca spp. |
Yucca |
| Pieris japonica |
Japanese Pieris | Myrica cerifera | Waxmyrtle | Vitex agnuscastus | Chastetree |
| Cornus florida |
Flowering Dogwood | Nandina domestica | Nandina | Wisteria floribunda | Japanese Wisteria |
| Cornus kousa | Kousa Dogwood | Nerium oleander | Oleander | ||
| Pinus spp. | Pine |
Plants Occasionally Damaged
| Botanical Name | Common Name | Botanical Name | Common Name | Botanical Name | Common Name |
| Acer griseum |
Paperbark
Maple |
Cotoneaster spp. |
Cotoneaster
|
Quercus spp. |
Oak |
| Acer rubrum | Red Maple | Cryptomeria japonica | Japanese
Cedar |
Salix spp. | Willow |
| Acer saccharinum | Silver Maple | Hibiscus syriacus | Rose of Sharon | Spiraea (x) bumalda | Anthony
Waterer Spiraea |
| Acer saccharum | Sugar Maple | Hydrangea paniculata PG | Hydrangea | Tsuga canadensis | Eastern Hemlock |
| Amelanchier arborea | Serviceberry
|
Ilex crenata | Japanese Holly | Viburnum rhytidophyllum | Leatherleaf Viburnum |
| Campsis radicans | Trumpet Creeper | Magnolia soulangiana | Saucer Magnolia | Weigela florida | Old
Fashioned Weigela |
| Chaenomeles speciosa | Flowering Quince | Parthenocissus quinquifolia | Virginia Creeper | ||
| Cotinus coggygria | Smoketree |
Plants Frequently Damaged
| Botanical Name |
Common Name | Botanical Name | Common Name | Common
Name |
|
| Abies fraseri | Fraser Fir | Euonymus fortunei | Wintercreeper | Rhododendron spp. | Rhododendron/Azalea |
| Acer platanoides |
Norway Maple | Hedera helix | English Ivy | Rosa x hybrida |
Rose |
| Cercis canadensis | Redbud | Hemerocallis | Daylily | Sorbus aucuparia | Mountain Ash |
| Clematis |
Clematis
|
Hosta |
Hosta | Taxus cuspidata | Japanese Yew |
| Cornus mas | Corneliancherry Dogwood | Malus spp. | Apple | Thuja occidentalis |
American Arborvitae |
| Euonymus alatus |
Winged Euonymus | Prunus spp. |
Cherries | ||
| Pyrus calleryana "Bradford" | Bradford Pear |
There are many reasons to harvest your seeds year after year.
Some gardeners like to pass quality seed down from generation
to generation. Others prefer to save their own seed to save
money and still others do it because it can lead to growing plants
that produce quite well in their location. Seeds and plants
can grow to be resistant to hazards or blights that occur in the
environment they are consistently raised in.
Before harvesting seeds there are a few things to be aware of.
If you have planted 'hybrid' seeds it is not a good idea to try and
save these seeds. A 'hybrid' is an offspring of two plants of
differnt varieties and the seeds they produce tend to be
inferior. Even though your seed packet may not have said
'hybrid', plants that have grown too close to each other, such as
pumpkins and squash, can be natural hybrids, as it is more than likely
they have cross pollinated.
One method for harvesting seeds, such as vegetables, is to
let the fruit ripen on the vine or plant to the point that it is
overripe. Once you have picked the fruit or vegetable, mash it
gently. Pull out the seeds and soak them in water for 48
hours. The seeds that come to the top are usually too dry or
infertile to be of any use and they can be discarded. Take out
the seeds that have sunk to the bottom and dry them on a piece of
paper.
Vegetables such as green beans or peas can be allowed to dry on the
vine. Once pods are dry remove the seeds. Flower seeds
should be gathered when the pods are brown and come off the plant
easily. Try not to wait until the pods have already split.
Poppy seeds and columbine seeds can wait until you simply shake them
out of the pod. Plants with heads similar to blackeyed susans and
coneflowers should be allowed to dry on the stalk which will allow the
head to fully expand, allowing seeds to ripen and making it easier for
them to drop out.
Once you have gathered the seeds you wish to save, the next step
is storing them. Proper storage is key to how well they will
produce next year. The main thing to remember when storing seeds
is to keep them cool and dry. The best place to keep your seeds
is in a paper envelope, as they allow air in to keep the seeds
dry. Moisture can cause mold and speed up the seed's biological
processes prematurely. Be sure to label your envelope with the
seed name and the date. Once you have the seeds in the paper
envelopes you can then store them in an airtight container if you
wish.
Looking to extend next year's growing season?
Would you like to eat your own home-grown greens, radishes and carrots
well into winter?
Here, University of Florida extension agent Tom Wichman demonstrates how to build a simple cold frame that will provide a few extra weeks of plant growth earlier and later in the year.
What a cold frame does:
How it's built:
How it works:
Turn up the heat:
Tips for growing:
A properly planted tree or shrub will be more
tolerant of adverse conditions and require much less management than
one planted incorrectly. The plant should be appropriate to
the site where it's going to be planted. Remember, RIGHT
PLANT IN THE RIGHT PLACE.
The Challenge: Water stress, due to removal of
most of the water-absorbing roots, is the primary cause of transplant
failure. Most water absorption capability within a transplanted
root-ball results from very small diameter roots. These fragile roots
are the first to suffer from excess water loss in newly transplanted
landscape plants.
Properly planting and caring for a tree minimizes
excess water loss in newly transplanted plants and increases their rate
of survival.
CONSIDERATIONS BASED ON HOW TREE IS PACKAGED
Bare-Root Plants: Trim damaged roots and remove girdling roots before planting. Bare-root plants should be planted while they are completely dormant. Landscape-sized bare-root trees usually require staking.
Balled and Burlapped Plants: The most favorable seasons are when transpiration demand is low and root generation potential is high, such as in fall, winter and early spring. With the much-reduced root system, water is a critical element in the successful transplanting of B&B material.
Container-Grown Plants: Container-grown plants
can be planted into the landscape year-round. The main
disadvantage of container-grown plants is the possibility of deformed
roots. Some form of root mass disturbance is recommended before
planting. (See pictures below)
PLANTING PROCEDURES
For the most efficient use of water, construct an
earthen dam 4 to 6 inches high around the dripzone area of the plant
after planting. Water will have the ability to collect in this saucer
and move slowly down into the planting hole. Runoff will be minimized
(Figure 2).
Staking: If needed, use stakes to provide
additional support, anchorage or protection. Although, be aware that an
unstaked tree grows faster than a staked one. Trees planted in
open, windy sites may require staking. Recently planted small trees can
benefit from stakes placed around them as a protection method. When
they reach sufficient size, the stakes can be removed.
Pruning: Pruning should be done to remove
damaged branches and to improve the structure of the plant.
Overlapping, parallel, and crowded branches should be pruned after
installation. Cosmetic pruning to improve the form and shape of the
plant is also recommended.
