Cooperative Extension Service
Harnett County Center

Plant Talk

by Paul G. McKenzie
From the Daily Record, Dunn, NC

CAUTION:The information and recommendations in this article are applicable to Harnett County, NC and may not apply in other areas.

 FALL IS FOR FESCUE AND TREE PLANTING, 09/12/97

You may be skeptical, but my calendar is telling me that fall is just around the corner. And even though fall colors and leaf raking may be a ways off, we are fast approaching the right time for some important landscape chores.

TALL FESCUE CARE Late summer and fall is prime time for tall fescue. This cool season grass begins to thrive as the mercury falls.

Fescue should be fertilized in mid-September. Take your soil sample now and you should get your results back in time. In general, apply one pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet.

Mid-September through mid-October is also the time to plant a new fescue lawns, or renovate an existing one.

With new lawns or bare areas, start by eliminating any weed problems with the proper herbicide. Then, till in any needed lime and fertilizer to a depth of four to six inches.

Rake the seed bed smooth, then evenly distribute the fescue seed at a rate of five or six pounds per thousand square feet. The seed should then be lightly covered by raking, or by dragging a length of chain link fence over the soil.

Next cover the soil with one or two bales of weed-free straw per 1000 square feet.

Two or more light waterings per day are preferred to keep the seed and seedlings moist. Once the seedlings begin to develop a root system, cut back to a longer watering once a day, then every other day.

Soil preparation is just as important when renovating an existing fescue lawn. Again, start by eliminating any major weed problems. Then mow the fescue down to about 2 inches.

Before seeding, rake your lawn with a thatch rake, or use an aerator to break up the soil. Then repeat after seeding to get good soil/seed contact.

Follow the same watering guidelines mentioned above.

PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS
Late summer is also a wonderful time to plant new shrubs and trees.

Last September we all learned the importance of planting the right tree in the right place. It's hard to picture just how big that sapling you purchased will become. We must learn to visualize what trees will look like in thirty years. A tree is an investment that will be with you for a long time, so it is important to take the long view.

When planting, the hole should be no deeper than the root ball. Focus your labor on digging out, not down. The important roots are the lateral ones, those that grow out from the plant and close to the soil surface.

Be sure to remove any container, wires, strings, or burlap from the rootball.

It is generally not necessary to mix any organic matter into the planting hole. In fact, if not mixed thoroughly into the entire root zone, this practice can actually have detrimental effects by interfering with proper water movement in the soil.

Stakes and guy lines are also rarely needed. If used, however, they should be removed as soon as the plant is established to prevent girdling of the trunk.

Water your new tree or shrub judiciously as it becomes established. Remember that plants need water even in winter. Be sure to water during any dry winter periods.

If you have any questions about gardening or landscaping, feel free to call one of the Master Gardener volunteers (910-893- 7534). They are available on Wednesday afternoons from 1:00 to 4:00.

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