Information you can really dig into
This newsletter offers timely information for your outdoor living spaces. Addressing the most common questions ranging from container gardening, tree pruning, wildlife management, to fire ant control, insect identification and lawn establishment.
Click here for a printable version of this newsletter.
Shawn Banks
ExtensionAgent
Agriculture—Consumer Horticulture
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FEATURE ARTICLE
Companion Planting
By: Phil Rocheleau
Wouldn’t it be great if you could just plant your garden and forget it? Your plants would grow lush and healthy – without you adding lots of fertilizer or worrying about pest problems. Well, any kind of garden will need some care, but you can encourage your plants to work together, sharing water and nutrients and protecting each other from pesky insects. However, it takes more than good soil, sun, and nutrients to ensure success in the garden. Plants have to work well with one another.
Picture by: Lucy Bradley
“The idea of ‘companion planting’ has been around for thousands of years, during which time it has become so besmirched with bad science and metaphysics that many gardeners aren’t sure what it means. The current definition goes something like this: Companion planting is the establishment of two or more species in close proximity so that some cultural benefit, such as pest control or increased yield, may be achieved.”1 When planted together, companion plants are able to thrive, produce a higher quality and higher yield and minimize environmental impact. Companion planting provides gardeners with the means to naturally and effectively increase crop yields, control pests, and nurture tender seedlings.
Working with companion plants requires experimenting in your own garden, using the crops your family likes best, and allowing for an increase in leafy greens because they are such versatile companion plants. Consider trying a simple combination in the garden this year.
Native Americans were known for practicing cultivation of “The Three Sisters”. Beans, pumpkins and corn were planted together, allowing each plant to benefit the other. Corn acted as a structure for the beans to climb on, the beans fixed nitrogen in the air thus improving the soil, and the pumpkins produced large leaves which acted as living mulch, retaining moisture and reducing weeds. It was the Native Americans’ demonstration of this practice that ensured the survival of many new colonial settlers in America.
Aside from The Three (Four) Sisters as an example of how plants help one another, here are a few examples from the Old Farmers Almanac.3
Picture by: Shawn Banks
Some plants, especially herbs, act as repellents, confusing insects with their strong odors that mask the scent of the intended host plants. Dill and basil planted among tomatoes protect the tomatoes from hornworms, and sage scattered about the cabbage patch reduces injury from cabbage moths.
Marigolds are as good as gold when grown with just about any garden plant, repelling beetles, nematodes, and even animal pests.
Some companion plantings act as trap plants, luring insects to themselves. Nasturtiums, for example, are so favored by aphids that the devastating insects will flock to them instead of other plants.
Carrots, dill, parsley, and parsnip attract garden heroes (praying mantises, ladybugs, and spiders) that dine on insect pests.
There are also enemy plants, plants that are incompatible which stunt the growth of plants or affect the growth cycle on certain plants. Take for example white garlic and onions. Together they repel a plethora of pests and make excellent neighbors for most garden plants; however, the growth of beans and peas is stunted in their presence.
One of the keys to successful companion planting is observation. Record your plant combinations and the results from year to year, and share this information with other gardening friends.
Internet sites for Companion Guides and Lists:
http://currituck.ces.ncsu.edu/files/library/27/COMPANION%20PLANTING%20CHART.pdf
http://www.almanac.com/content/plant-companions-list-ten-common-vegetables
http://www.motherearthnews.com/
References:
Mother Earth News http://www.motherearthnews.com/
Currituck County Cooperative Extension Center: Companion Planting -
http://currituck.ces.ncsu.edu/2011/03/companion-planting/
The 2005 Old Farmers Almanac – http://www.almanac.com/content/plant-companions-friend-or-foe
Photo of Companion Planting By: Lucy Bradley
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FEATURE PLANT
Winter Jasmine
Jasminum nudiflorum
By: Margy Pearl
Would you like a plant that has masses of yellow flowers on bright green stems when almost nothing else is blooming? Winter jasmine is the plant for you! It adds that splash of welcome warm color to virtually any area in a late winter landscape. This underutilized plant will produce hundreds of 1 to 2 inch unscented, funnel-shaped, sunny flowers from maroon-red buds over a period of 6-8 weeks into early spring.
Picture by: Shawn Banks
Native to China and cultivated in the west since the mid 1800’s, winter jasmine has a broad spreading fountain of fine, arching stems that remain green year round. Hardy in zones 6 to10, this deciduous shrub has opposite, lustrous emerald green leaves with three leaflets that stay green until they drop with the first frost. Growing unsupported 3-4 feet high and 4-7 feet wide, it can reach 15 feet high if trained on a trellis or tied to a wall, preferably facing south or west in full sun to ensure the heaviest bloom. Planted 3 feet apart with the root ball even with the ground, a row of winter jasmine will quickly becomes a thick hedge. The long branches will root where they contact the soil, especially if that soil is moist, and become new plants. Because of this propagating ability, it spreads quickly on a slope and controls erosion well. Many experts believe winter jasmine is at its best when cascading over a wall where its trailing habit and profuse bloom can be admired.
Anyone, from novice to master gardener, will have success with winter jasmine because its middle name is tolerant. It prefers well-drained soil but can grow in a range of conditions, including heavy clay and sand, and does not need fertilizing. It blooms best in full sun but will thrive even in shade. Once established, it’s drought tolerant. There are no serious diseases or insect pests. Bloggers report that it’s even deer-resistant!
Propagation and transplanting of winter jasmine is also easy. Stems can be layered, tips will root naturally where they touch the soil and cuttings can be started at any time of year. Plants can be rejuvenated by severely pruning old stems after flowering. This shrub will produce showy flowers on the previous season’s growth.
Are you seeing shrubs with yellow blooms but it’s too early for forsythia? Look again! It’s winter jasmine!
UPCOMING EVENTS
Blueberry Production Workshop
Saturday, March 2, 2013
9:00am – 12:00pm
Dr. Bill Cline will be at the Johnston County Agriculture Center to discuss growing blueberries in North Carolina. After his presentation we will drive a short distance down the road to do an on farm demonstration of proper pruning. To register call 919 989-5380 or email Angie Faison. More information at http://johnston.ces.ncsu.edu/event/5132136/blueberry-production-workshop/
Chill Your Bill
Tuesday, March 5, 2013
5:30pm – 8:00pm
Are you throwing away money in cooling or heating? Do you need help determining where you are loosing the fuel cost battle? Learn to save money on your home energy bill. Call the Extension Office to register.
Shiitake Mushroom Production Workshop
Friday, March 22, 2013
9:00am – 3:00pm Cost $20
This workshop will cover all aspects of Shiitake Mushroom production and will include “hands on” experience where individuals will inoculate and bring home their own logs. Call the Extension Office to register.
Events at Howell Woods Environmental Learning Center:
Pesticides and Bees Workshop
Monday, March 25, 2013
7:00pm – 9:00pm
Learn what pollinators are and what their roles are in our gardens. Learn about the economic value of pollinators. Also learn about the regulations on the use of pesticides by both homeowners and farmers as well as pollinator friendly pest control strategies. Pesticide credits have been applied for in L, D, N, O, and X.
Pond Management Workshop
Saturday, April 6, 2013
9:00am – 1:00pm
Learn the importance of pond design and construction along with selecting the correct fish to stock and harvest from a pond, how to manage and maintain a good healthy pond, and how to determine and solve problems that may arise. Pesticide credits have been applied for in A, L, D, N, O, and X. CCA credits have also been applied for.
Activities at Johnston Community College – All events at Johnston Community College have a small fee associated with them. Most events will cost $15.00 unless otherwise noted. To register for events or get more information, go to the JCC Arboretum events page or call 919 209-2168.
The ABC’s of Gardening – Mar 5, 2013, 6:00pm at JCC Arboretum. Learn the basics of gardening including soil preparation, watering, fertilizing, and more.
Square Foot & Container Vegetable Gardens – Mar 12-13, 2013, 6:00pm at JCC Arboretum. This two part class will have some hands-on instruction to help particapts begin raising vegetables in small spaces. Registration is $25.
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YARD VILLIAN
JACK FROST
By: Shawn Banks
It may seem odd to speak of the weather as a yard villain, but hear me out before making a judgment. It’s been a cold winter (well, compared to last year anyway). It’s March. As a general rule there will be a few days or maybe even a week of warm weather. Many will want to get started planting vegetables and summer annual flowers, mostly because it feels like it should be time.
Here is where Jack Frost becomes a villain in the yard. According to records here in Johnston County (more specifically Smithfield) our average last frost date is April 7. Give or take about a week. Some years the trees begin to flower and get a little anxious for spring weather, and then a hard freeze hits resulting in the death of the flowers and any little fruit that may have begun to develop.
Picture by: Nelson Berry Farm
Many farmers will implement some type of frost protection. Some will use overhead irrigation to save the crop, while others may pull a row cover over tender plants. In a couple of large farms, they will hire helicopters to stir up the air and prevent the frost. For the home gardener, there are a few things that can be done.
If there are only a few plants, cover them with a sheet or an old blanket. This provides a few degrees of protection by trapping the warmth of the earth in with the plants. DO NOT use plastic. If plastic comes in contact with the leaves of the plants, it transfers the heat right through the plastic and the plant still gets frost damage. If the plastic is lifted off the plants with some type of frame to provide a row cover, this will protect the plants.
Picture by: Shawn Banks
For one or two plants that are small, cover them with a large flowerpot or turn a tomato cage upside down and wrap it up. No, the cage won’t blow over, and if it does there shouldn’t be a frost event. The movement of the air should prevent the frost.
In the case of a large fruit tree, there may be nothing that can be done by the homeowner. Overhead sprinkler irrigation may not be practical. The irrigation needs to be turned on before the critical temperature (about 30 degrees) is reached and continue running until all the ice is melted from the plant. As water freezes it releases heat to keep the plant warm. As the ice melts it requires heat from some source. If there is a continuous source of water to provide this heat, then the melting ice takes the heat from the water. If the water has been turned off, then the melting ice takes heat from the plant it is supposed to be protecting and frost damage occurs. This could use quite a bit of water.
The bottom line is to have an emergency plan worked out ahead of time just in case dear Mr. Jack Frost decides to make a late appearance. Better yet, wait until after the last frost date to plant tender annuals and summer vegetables.
The Old Farmers Almanac has a Frost Chart for many cities in the US.
References:
Piedmont Gardener http://piedmontgdnr.blogspot.com/2009/06/nc-average-first-and-last-frost-dates.html
The Old Farmers Almanac: Frost Chart http://www.almanac.com/content/frost-chart-united-states
Picture of Frost Protection By: Nelson Berry Farms http://www.nelsonberryfarm.com/aboutus.htm
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WHAT’S IN SEASON
CARROTS
Daucus carota
By: Tina Stricklen
Picture by: Tina Stricklen
When I was a child my mother encouraged me to eat my carrots. When I asked her why, instead of saying “because I said so” she told me they were “good for my eyes.” I wasn’t sure what it meant at the time, but I gladly ate them because of their pretty orange color and their sweet flavor.
The notion that carrots improve your eyesight is not a myth. In fact, carrots are rich in beta-carotene, which converts into vitamin A aiding in not only vision but reproduction, growth, and development. Additionally, carrots provide Vitamins C, D, E, K, B1 and B6, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and phosphorous. Given this knowledge it’s no wonder folks love growing these delicious and healthy root vegetables.
Picture by: Shawn Banks
Carrots are a cool-season vegetable, which means they thrive in full sun during the spring and fall months in our area. The best time to plant them for a spring crop is between February 15 and March 15 and for a fall crop the recommended time is between June 15 and September 15.
Carrots must be grown in at least 12 inches of loose soil that is free of clods and rocks. Loamy soil means you won’t have plant defects such as crooked or forked roots. Be warned not to apply too much nitrogen before you plant seed. Doing so may produce hairy or forked roots as well greater top growth and smaller roots. It is best to prep the bed two weeks before planting with a standard 10-10-10 fertilizer or manure to avoid this situation. Of course, a soil test is recommended to ensure the ideal pH range of 5.5 to 6.5.
Since carrot seeds are very small, it may be helpful to mix them with fine soil or sand and broadcast them in the growing area. I don’t ascribe to the straight-row method of gardening so I scatter the mixture as best I can and then thin the seedlings to about two plants per one-inch area. Thinning is a very important step and it should be done when the plants reach about one inch in height. If you don’t thin properly, your crop will suffer from overcrowding and result in crooked, small or no root growth. Apply ½ to ¾ inch of water every four to seven days while waiting for the seedlings to emerge and weekly for the first 3 weeks. Intercropping or inter-planting with radishes as a “nurse crop” not only helps shelter the tiny seedlings but it aids in weed suppression and conserves space.
Good varieties to try for our area include: Danvers 126, Scarlett Nantes, Camden, and Spartan Fancy. Mini carrot varieties include Mini Core, Mini Park, or Spartan Winner. For colorful carrot varieties try Cosmic Purple, Atomic Red or Yellowbunch.
Try the following soup recipe for a delightfully creamy and tasty use of carrots.
Ingredients
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup chopped onion
1 teaspoon curry powder
Coarse salt and ground pepper
2 cans (14 1/2 ounces each) reduced-sodium chicken broth (about 3 1/2 cups)
2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 to 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish (optional)
Directions
Heat butter in a Dutch oven or large (4- to 5-quart) saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, curry powder, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft, about 5 minutes.
Add broth, carrots, and 3 cups water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat; cover, and simmer until carrots are tender, about 20 minutes.
In a blender, puree soup in batches until smooth; transfer to a clean saucepan. Add more water to thin to desired consistency. Reheat, if necessary. Stir in lemon juice. Serve garnished with cilantro, if desired.
Sources:
http://www.nutrition-and-you.com/carrots.html
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/hil-9.html
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1606.html
Recipe:
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MARCH GARDEN TASKS
LAWN MAINTENANCE
(or this month it’s ‘What do I do about weeds?’)
REMEMBER, the best defense against weeds is a healthy lawn. Learn how to care for your lawn throughout the year. Visit TurfFiles and click on Turf Tips to learn more about your lawn type. Keep it happy, healthy and weed free.
Control existing weeds now, before they get large and/or set seed. A little work now will save a lot of trouble later.
For yards with an established weed problem, use pre-emergent herbicides to kill seedlings as they germinate. Pre-emergent herbicides can be used to control crabgrass and other broadleaf weeds. Pre-emergent herbicides (according to label directions) should be applied while the forsythia is in bloom, late February to mid-March.
Sharpen mower blades! A sharp blade cuts. A dull blade tears – making grass susceptible to diseases.
TREES, SHRUBS & ORNAMENTALS
Divide fall-blooming perennials that are overgrown, such as asters, primrose, irises, violets, shasta daisies and mums. This is an easy way to enlarge your garden.
Control leaf gall on azaleas and camellias. Leaf gall, a fungal disease, shows up as swollen leaves covered with a white powdery material. It is unsightly but generally not harmful to the plant. Pick off the affected leaves and dispose of them to avoid spreading the fungus.
Do not compost diseased plant material. Remove protective winter mulch from tender perennials in early March to warm the soil and stimulate the plant to grow. Apply fresh mulch in April after perennials have emerged. Mulch helps with water conservation and weed control. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-608.html
Spring flowering shrubs such as quince, spirea, forsythia, azalea, Camellia japonica, Carolina Jessamine , viburnum, mock orange, weigela, Oriental magnolia and Indian Hawthorn flower on old growth. Prune them soon AFTER they bloom.
Time for heavy, rejuvenation pruning of summer-blooming shrubs. Prune holly, Nandina and Beautyberry before new growth begins. Althea, Buddleia, Vitex, Crape Myrtle and Pomegranate can be pruned at the beginning of March to stimulate more flower production later.
Prune roses before bud break. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-641.html
For a better show next spring, let the foliage of spring-flowering bulbs die back naturally.
Are you fighting to keep grass growing under your trees? Or is there bare ground that erodes in heavy rains? Trees usually win in any competition for moisture and nutrients, and turfgrass is not well adapted to life in the shade. Mulch or living groundcovers are better choices than grass under large trees.
Ground covers act as “living mulch.” Low-maintenance, shade-tolerant ground covers include pachysandra, periwinkle (vinca), ajuga (bugleweed), liriope or mondo grass.
A 2-3” thick layer of composted mulch conserves moisture, reduces erosion and provides nutrients to the tree. Keep mulch away from the trunk of the tree to discourage rodents and rot.
Protect shade tree roots from injury. Remember that most of a tree’s feeder roots are near the soil surface, under and just outside the tree canopy. If digging, foot traffic, or vehicles injure roots then damage to the tree can range from slowed growth (minor) to the death of the tree (major!). Some trees, such as dogwoods, are very susceptible to root damage; others, like maples, are more tolerant.
EDIBLES
Plant cool-weather vegetable crops such as lettuce, mustard greens, sugar snap peas, radishes, onions, potatoes, spinach, and cole crops (such as cabbage and collards) as soon as soil can be worked. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-8016.html
If a ball of soil crumbles when squeezed in your fist, the soil is workable.
Take a soil test (we have free kits here) to see how much fertilizer to apply around pecan trees. It’s time!
Beets, broccoli, cauliflower and Chinese cabbage can be started by the third or fourth week of March.
Now is the time to start seeds indoors for vegetables such as tomato, pepper, eggplant, and others to get a jump-start on the summer growing season.
WILDLIFE & INSECTS
Put up martin and bluebird houses by mid-March to encourage these birds to nest. Learn how to build a blue bird nest box at nabluebirdsociety.org/nestboxspecs.htm or nabluebirdsociety.org/nestboxplans.htm
Clean out last year’s birdhouse nesting materials to make them more attractive to house-hunting birds.
LANDSCAPE IDEAS
Take photographs of your yard while your spring bulbs are blooming, so you can remember where to plant more bulbs in the fall.
HOUSEPLANTS
Repot houseplants in fresh commercial potting mix.
Before re-using old pots, clean them with detergent and water, or a 10% chlorine bleach solution, to remove salts and disease-causing microorganisms.
Wait a month after repotting before fertilizing.
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If you have gardening questions you would like to have answered contact the Extension Master Gardener Volunteers by phone at (919) 989-5380 or by e-mail at jcemastergardener@gmail.com.
If you would like to subscribe to this monthly newsletter send an e-mail to shawn_banks@ncsu.edu and ask to be added to the electronic newsletter list.
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Past Newsletters Johnston County Lawn and Garden
