Information you can really dig into

This newsletter offers timely information for your outdoor living spaces.  Addressing the most common questions ranging from container gardening, tree pruning, wildlife management, to fire ant control, insect identification and lawn establishment.

Click here for a printable version of this newsletter.

Shawn Banks
Extension Agent
Agriculture—Consumer Horticulture

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FEATURE ARTICLE

Gardening in Dry Shade
By Brenda Clayton

As a discerning gardener, are you distressed and disquieted over a disappointing dry shady area of your yard?  Dry shade is usually under large trees where the tree roots are located close to the surface and the tree canopy creates an umbrella effect on the ground below – a decidedly distressing dilemma!

What a demanding, inhospitable environment for most plants.  No sun, no moisture.  The trees leave little sustenance for anything planted at their feet.  However, do not despair!
There are a number of plants recommended for these conditions.

But first, here are a couple of things to remember.  (1) Foliage rules dry shade, not flowers.  If you want a voluminous look for your dry shady spot, go for a variety of foliage textures as well as plant vigor.  (2) Mulch!  It will help retain any available moisture in the soil.  (3) Look on-line for plants not listed here.  There really are a large number of plants that thrive in dry shade.  Plant Delights catalog is an excellent resource.

Following is a list of readily available plants that can tolerate shade and competition with tree roots, which rob the ground of moisture.

Cranesbill, also called bigroot geranium (Geranium macrorhizzum) is one of the finest plants for dry shade.  It tolerates drought due to its thick rhizomes, by which it spreads into a lovely white, pink, or magenta flowering groundcover.

Cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) is considered one of the toughest plants for dry shade.  Though it prefers fertile soil, it will survive the most demanding conditions.  It is grown for its tropical-looking foliage.

Lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantina) with its silvery soft fuzzy leaves prefers dry shade.  Be careful not to water those leaves to avoid powdery mildew and rot.

Dusty miller (Senecio cineraria) also has silvery foliage and will grow in summer shade in the hottest, driest conditions.  Again, do not water the foliage as it can cause powdery mildew.  (As an aside, did you know that dusty miller could be grown as a winter annual, planted with snapdragons and pansies?)

Daylilies (Hemerocallis) are highly adaptable and will grow nearly everywhere.  They naturalize in all soil and light conditions and come in a variety of colors.

Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum hybridum) lends texture with its triangular leaves lining up along its arching stems with small white tubular flowers peeking out from May to July.

Lenten hellebores (Helleborus x hybridus) look amazingly fresh in dry shade, lending curvaceous clumps to the front of the border.  The dark, leathery, serrated leaves and nodding white, pink, or maroon bell-shaped flowers create a fresh look to the February-April garden.

Epimediums, also known as barrenworts, bishop’s hats, or fairywings, are perfect candidates for dry, shaded spots.  The evergreen species such as E. pinnatum and its popular hybrid E. x perralchicum ‘Frohnleiten’ really tolerate dense shade and root competition.  And besides, the yellow flowers are just delightful!

Liriope muscari is a quintessential shade plant.  It is best planted in mass as a groundcover.  L. muscari ‘Variegata’ can liven up the shade with its gold variegated leaves.

We usually think of ferns as needing moist shade.  However, there are some that do well in dry shade.  Look for ferns in the genus Dryopteris (notice “dry” in the name). Ferns are reliable where established.

If you like the look of early bulbs, you might try Spanish bluebells (Hycinthoides hispanica) or snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis).  Both ignore the lack of ideal conditions and are at ease in dry shade.

When all else fails, create a shady garden room!  Put in a sitting area, some garden art, and several colorful containers of flowers.  Add a pathway to a water feature.  How about a birdbath and some wind chimes! You will have created a cool retreat for those hot summer days!

So if you are dejected, desperate and despondent over a dry shady spot, do not be discouraged!  Choosing from among the drought tolerate, tree-root-competing plants listed here and/or creating that shady garden room can turn your derelict domain into a delicious display, destined to bring you delight!

References:
www.hortmag.com/plants/plant-profiles/dryshadeplants
www.gardenguides.com

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FEATURE PLANT

Indian Pink
Spigelia marilandica
By Margy Pearl

On a trip to Niche Gardens and the NC Botanical Garden in Chapel Hill last year in late May, I saw an incredible native plant that I’ve been fascinated with ever since. With striking multiple spikes of tubular, bright red blooms ending in a yellow flare, it was like seeing a cluster of fireworks against a green background.  The Indian Pink is unforgettable!  This remarkable perennial herb sparked my interest to learn more about the wide variety of native wildflowers that grow with ease in our area and that are so necessary for the health of our honeybees, butterflies and hummingbirds.

Known also as Carolina Pink, Maryland Pink or Woodland Pinkroot, Indian Pink is a 1-2 foot tall and wide, clump-forming perennial, native wildflower which occurs in the rich, moist soils of woods, thickets, and stream banks from Texas to Florida and north to Illinois and Indiana.  Spigelia marilandica is named for the Flemish botanist, Adriaan van den Spieghel and belongs to the Loganiaceae family, which includes other poisonous herbs such as Carolina jasmine or Carolina Jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens) and strychnine (Strychnos nux-vomica).  Extracts of Indian Pink, also commonly called wormgrass, were used medicinally by Native Americans to rid the body of parasitic worms.   Usually taken in conjunction with senna, the mixture of “pink and senna” was in every settler’s herbal medicine chest.  Although Indian Pink is a traditional medicine for worms, fevers and malaria, the plant may cause vision problems, dizziness, muscle spasms, increased heart action, convulsions and death.  All parts of the plants are poisonous.

Interested in learning more about the history and medicinal properties of Indian Pink?  The Sunshine Farm and Gardens link has a section written by the retired scientist who created the USDA plant chemical database and is said to be the inspiration for the Sean Connery movie, “Medicine Man”.  His name is Duke, Dr. Jim Duke.

Like many native wildflowers, Indian Pink is a very hardy plant that requires little care once established.  It is happy in light sun to full shade and will live in a variety of soils from moist to dry.  Rich soil is preferred, however.  According to listed resources and the knowledgeable folks at Big Bloomers in Sanford, NC, if your garden has heavy clay soil, it should be amended with plenty of organic material before planting any woodland wildflower and is essential for Indian Pink to thrive and multiply.  When planted correctly, even in the deepest shade, the long red trumpets, up to 2” long, with tips of yellow stars will bloom reliably and really “pop”!

Those unique red and yellow blossoms on multiple stems of 2 to 12 blossoms will bloom from the bottom of the plant upwards over a long period of time beginning late May to early June.  Pinch back faded blooms, or use the beautiful blossoms as cut flowers, and you will be rewarded with a second bloom, nearly doubling the flowering season.

Best grown in groups massed in a woodland border, along a wild, shady garden path, or in the center of a native wildflower bed, Indian Pink is an excellent plant for a yard with tall established trees that cast light, dappled shade beneath them.  Plant with other native wildflowers such as columbine, Goat’s beard, wild geranium, woodland phlox, shooting star, wild penstemons, ferns and low groundcovers for a beautiful, natural look.  If your Spigelia marilandica is a little late, Sally Woskowski in her book Gardening with Native Plants of the South writes, it “can have butterfly weed, stokesia, black-eyed Susan and summer phlox as garden companions.”  Avoid placing them near very aggressive plants, however, as they don’t compete as well as some natives.

Interested in propagating Indian Pinks?  Left alone, the Indian Pink will self-seed and form a small knee-high colony.  You can divide the root before the plant starts to sprout in early spring but remember that the roots contain poisonous alkaloids, so use caution and heavy gloves!  Spring sown seed is the best method since the plant resents being disturbed once planted and they are almost impossible to start from cuttings.  Be prepared to catch seeds by attaching netting or a small bag to the green seed capsules that will ripen to black and fall soon after.  It is said that the capsules sound like a firecracker when dispersing!

Need any other incentive to grow the spectacular Indian Pink?   It’s a favorite, excellent, and welcome source of nectar for hummingbirds when it blooms in late May or June.  Operation Rubythroat has voted it as one of the top 10 hummingbird plants!

Resources:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/wildflowers/spigelia_marilandica.html
http://www.easywildflowers.com/quality/spigelia_marilandica_indianpink_.htm
http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=SPMA3
http://www.sunfarm.com/picks/spigeliamarilandica-125812.phtml

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UPCOMING EVENTS

Canning Workshop – Pickles, Acidified & Fermented
Saturday, June 15, 2013 from 9am -1pm
The canning workshop will be held at the Johnston County Cooperative Extension office at 2736 NC 210 Hwy, Smithfield, NC.  Come and learn how to Pickle. The instruction includes fermented and acidified pickling and Hot-water Bath Canning instruction.  Registration Fee is $20. The deadline to register is Friday, June 7th.   To register, call 919-989-5380 and ask for Nikki.

Extension Master Gardener Volunteers will at Clayton Farm and Community Market in Clayton on Saturday, June 15th from 9am to 1pm to answer questions and help diagnose pest problems.

For accommodations for persons with disabilities, contact Bryant Spivey at 919-989-5380 no later than five business days before the event.

Harnett County will be having an introduction to Pecan Growing class on June 4th from 6pm til 8pm.  It will be held at the Agriculture Center in Lillington (126 Alexander Drive).  Please call 910-893-7530 to register.

Johnston County Sustainable Farming – Monday, June 10, 2013 – 8:00 am – 5:00 pm
Departs from Arboretum Mobile Unit
Registration Fee: $50.00. Please call JCC Arboretum 919-209-2522 to register.
Includes a trip to area farms Tour Smith’s Nursery for berries (U pick!), produce and more. Bring small cooler for purchases. Explore The Little Herb House herb gardens at lunch. Visit Adams Vineyards to learn about grapes and viticulture, and wine sampling.

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YARD VILLAIN

Spotted Spurge
Chamaesyce maculata
By Shawn Banks

This is a weed that can be found just about anywhere –  in turf, in flowerbeds, in vegetable gardens, even in cracks in the drive or sidewalk.  Its low growth and coloration help it avoid detection and the lawn mower.  As a summer annual weed it’s best controlled in late spring or early summer.  In flowerbeds and vegetable gardens it can be controlled with a one to two-inch layer of mulch.  When turfgrass is kept thick and healthy, this weed isn’t much of a problem; however, if it gets a start, it can grow dense enough to shade out most turfgrass species.  Chemicals can also be used.  Most lawn weed control products will control spotted spurge.  Products containing active ingredients metsulfuron or a combination of dicamba +MCPA + triclopyr are really good choices.

Spotted spurge is a low growing weed that has a growth pattern that radiates out from a central taproot.  Leaves are tiny (1/4 to ½  inch long), shaped like an egg, usually a dark green with a maroon spot in the middle of the leaf.  The stems usually have a maroon tint to them and are often hairy.  Flowers are very inconspicuous, tiny, white or slightly pink, and can be found in the leaf axil (where the leaf meets the stem).  A good way to tell spurge from other weeds that look similar is to break a stem or a leaf.  All parts of this plant emit a milky sap when broken.

Reference:
Virginia Tech Weed Identification Guide, Spotted Spurge: Euphorbia maculata.  Retrieved from the Internet http://www.ppws.vt.edu/scott/weed_id/ephma.htm

TurfFiles Center, Spurge, Spotted (Prostrate Spurge): Chamaesyce maculata.  Retrieved from the Internet at http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/weeds/Spurge_Spotted.aspx

USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service, Plants Profile: Chamaesyce maculata, spotted sandmat.  Retrieved from the Internet at http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=chma15

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WHAT’S IN SEASON

Tomatillo
Physalis ixocarpa
By Beth Raines

Some refer to this gem of a fruit as a “husk tomato” because of the inedible, protective, paper-like covering (calyx) that forms around the fruits. It’s in the Solanaceae family along with tomatoes and potatoes, and is a cousin to the ground cherry. Used primarily in Mexican cooking as the main ingredient of most green sauces, it’s believed to have been brought to the United States from Mexico in the 1840’s.

Although transplanting is better, tomatillos can be started from seed.  Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost, and transplant outdoors when the soil is at least 65°, leaving 3’ of space in each direction around each plant. Plant at least two for good pollination, and keep favorite companions of sunflowers and corn in mind when choosing a site. Fertilize immediately after transplanting, and every 3 weeks thereafter. Mulch to 3”  after the soil reaches 70°. Fruit will be ready to harvest in 65-90 days, depending on variety and climate.

When ready to harvest, the husk surrounding the fruit turns brown. The fruit will fill the husk or even burst through. Ripe fruit may fall from the plant and can be harvested by picking it up from the ground.

After harvest, fruit can be stored at room temperature in the husks in a paper bag for 6-7 days. It can be stored up to two months by removing the husks  and putting the fruit in a ventilated plastic bag in the refrigerator. Fruit can be frozen by removing the husks, washing and drying, and packing in freezer bags, being careful to remove excess air from the bags.

The seeds can be saved using the fermentation technique as with tomatoes and are viable for 4-5 years. Seeds are available from several seed companies including 2 varieties from “Sow True Seed”, and 7 types from “Southern Exposure Seed Exchange”.

Recipe for Basic Salsa Verde:
Sauté ½ cup diced onion, 1 minced garlic clove, 2 chopped jalapeno peppers in olive oil until the vegetables just begin to brown.
Add 4 cups husked tomatillos, and water to cover. Cook until tomatillos soften and pop open if pressed with a spoon.
Stir in 2 Tbsps. chopped cilantro. Blend until smooth.
Serve with chips or use as an enchilada sauce.

Works Cited:
Galloway, Willi. Grow Cook Eat. Seattle: Sasquatch Books, 2012.
The Southern Living Garden Book. Birmingham: Oxmoor House, 1998.
Weaver, William Woys. Heirloom Vegetable Gardening. New York: Henry Holt and Company, 1997.

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 JUNE GARDEN TASKS

LAWN CARE
When do you water your lawn?  When the grass blades are just starting to curl and your footprints remain on the lawn when you walk on it.  Apply an inch of water in the early morning, this allows the lawn to dry during the day.  The ground is dry so cycling the irrigation applying a little at a time will allow the water to soak deep into the soil.
It’s a good time to plant new sod in damaged areas.  Get your soil tested first (we have free kits).

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Grasses vary in their needs for nutrients, mowing height and watering. to learn how to best care for your grass type check out the Lawn Maintenance Calendar for your grass and learn how best to care for it, month by month …
o    Bermuda – http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/Maintenance_Calendars.aspx#000016
o    Centipede – http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/Maintenance_Calendars.aspx#000019
o    Zoysiagrass – http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/Maintenance_Calendars.aspx#000020
o    Tall Fescue – http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/Maintenance_Calendars.aspx#000017
This is NOT the time for planting or fertilizing fescue! Wait until the fall.

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Mow fescue at a height of 3 – 3 1/2 inches to help it survive hot, dry periods.  It is a cool season grass that slows down in the summer and if cut too short the tender roots will be exposed to extreme heat which will certainly damage, if not kill, it.  It is also difficult for the fescue to recover from being cut too short as it is not actively growing at this time.

TREES, SHRUBS & ORNAMENTALS
Prune climbing roses after they bloom, then fertilize them to stimulate new growth. This summer’s growth carries next year’s buds, so keep the plants growing vigorously! Train long shoots horizontally to stimulate more branching. .

As soon as their foliage dies, dig bulb clumps that have become crowded: daffodils, crocus, Dutch iris, etc. Divide and replant bulbs immediately, or store them in a cool, dry place for planting this fall. (Note: Tulips and Hyacinths generally don’t perennialize in our area because our spring and winter is too warm.)

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Give plants room to grow. Pull/transplant excess seedlings of marigold, cosmos, zinnias, etc. Growing plants need room to develop.  Spacing plants properly reduces the risk of fungal diseases like powdery mildew.

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Remove faded flowers.  Many annuals and perennials will stop blooming once they’ve started to set seed.  Dead heading or removing spent flowers will prolong the bloom period.

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Pinch growing tips of ornamentals.  Pinching the growing tips will encourage compact, sturdy, branched growth with lots of blooms.

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Protect plants from dehydration. Transplanting on overcast days, early in the morning, or late in the afternoon will reduce water loss in transplants.  keep newly-planted ornamentals well watered for the first several days.  Apply a 2-3″ layer of mulch to conserve water and keep roots cool.

EDIBLES
Squash plants wilting? squash vine borers may be the culprit.  Check near the base of the plant for a small hole and a mass of greenish-yellow excrement.  Slitting open the stem may reveal the villain: a fat, white caterpillar.  It may be possibl e to save the plant by removing the caterpillar, then covering the injured vine with m oist soil to encourage rooting.

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Warmer temperatures and longer days send a signal to spring greens that it is time to flower (bolt).  Leaves generally do not taste as good when the plant starts to bolt.  Once this quick process starts, there is no turning back.  To delay bolting try the following – Cover spring salad greens with a cardboard box in mid afternoon.  Remove it after sunset and give the plants a slurp of water to cool them down. This procedure fools the plants into thinking the days are shorter than they actually are and can delay bolting by a couple of weeks.  –  Barbara Pleasant

LANDSCAPE IDEAS
Tropical natives make excellent additions to our gardens in the summer, with colorful foliage, bright flowers, and heat-loving constitutions. They can’t survive our winters, but we can try over-wintering our favorites indoors.  Ornamental peppers  and Jerusalem cherries are other heat-lovers. More exotic tropicals, such as Alternanthera (Joseph’s Coat), Plectranthus (with lovely gray felty leaves), and Acalypha (Copper Plant), are becoming available. Visit the J.C. Raulston Arboretum at NCSU to see first-hand how tropicals can spice up our summer gardens.

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Mulch flower beds and vegetable gardens now to save on watering chores later.  The mulch you choose should be one you think enhances the beauty of your garden.  Find more information at: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-608.html

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Keep outdoor potted plants watered; in the heat they lose a lot of moisture. If you’re going on vacation, ask a friend to check your plants regularly.

HOUSEPLANT
Water houseplants as needed.  Do not allow them to dry out to the point of wilting, but watering too often will lead to root rot.  Watering needs will vary according to the size of the plant and the container it is in.

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If moving plants outside for a summer vacation, move them slowly into the light.  If put directly into the light after being in the house all winter the sun will give them a sunburn and could kill the plants.

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Remember to fertilize.  This is the time when most houseplants will be doing the most growing and will need the nutrients to stay green and healthy.
General Houseplant care: http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06510.htm

*** If you would like to receive this newsletter monthly via email, send an email to shawn_banks@ncsu.edu asking to be added to The Gardener’s Dirt email list.

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If you have gardening questions you would like to have answered contact the Extension Master Gardener Volunteers by phone at (919) 989-5380 or by e-mail at jcemastergardener@gmail.com.

If you would like to subscribe to this monthly newsletter send an e-mail to shawn_banks@ncsu.edu and ask to be added to the electronic newsletter list.

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Past Newsletters                                                  Johnston County Lawn and Garden