Q. My rose bush put out new growth about a month ago and was growing great and then the cold snap hit and killed the growth back. Can I cut off the dead/damaged area?Yes, you can prune off the dead or damaged areas of the rose and most other woody ornamental shrubs. If you are not sure the wood is dead and it seems that new growth may have a chance, then leave it alone and reevaluate the situation again in 4 - 5 weeks. Prune out only the dead/damaged area down to the green wood and stop. Remember to use clean pruning tools. back to the list
Q. I want to fertilize my lawn! The lawn is tall fescue. Can I apply the fertilizer now?
No, cool season grasses, like tall fescue have definite times of the year when fertilization of the grass is appropriate. There are 3 recommended times of application and they are: the first week in September, the first week in November and for the spring application there is an open time from February 15 - March 15.back to the list
Q. I want to transplant a tree out of the woods. Will the tree survive?
With the new growth of the spring kicking in and all the new growth is beginning, I DO NOT recommend transplanting any trees or shrubs during the leaf expansion and vigorous limb growth through the spring months. Wait if possible until the mid-fall period. The point to remember is that when you are digging trees from the wild, you will be lucky to recover 10 % of the root system during transplanting. The smaller the plant the greater the chance of survival.back to the list
Q. I want to plant several different perennials in a bed area. What needs to be done to be successful?
First, look at the bed area. What does it need? If it is a heavy clay soil, then look to incorporate organic matter, like composted pine bark, to loosen the soil and open air spaces for the roots. Also, at the same time have a soil test run on the bed to determine its nutrient needs, DON'T JUST GUESS. Also, plant sun loving plants in full sun areas and shade loving plants in shade areas; do not mix the two.back to the list
Q. What can I do to control grub worms in my lawn? In the last month circular spots of the lawn have died out and I found grubs in the area.
Those lawn grubs are Japanese Beetle larvae. There is very little that can be done about the grubs at this time of year. The time to control grubs in the lawn begins in late August to early September, when they are most actively feeding, are close to the surface and are still small. back to the list
Q. I want to prune my shrubs now, is it OK to do this in the spring?
NO, NO, NO. Do not prune on plants when they are in the middle of leaf growth. Large amounts of the stored energy from the last season is used to push out the new growth. If you cut it off, the plant must then pull more stored food supplies from its system and the plant becomes stressed. Sometimes they never recover. Also, pruning at this time is a great invitation for damaging insects and diseases.back to the list
Q. Is the soil too wet to work?
One of the worst day's work you can do is work in the garden is when the soil is too wet. You'll pay for it for long time. Just keep an eye on the soil and stick a shovel in every so often. If it is still wet and sticky, then wait another day or two and check the soil again. Plants struggle in soils that have been compacted during those wet times.back to the list
Q. There are low areas in my landscape and I want to fill them in with top soil. Is this the thing to do?
It depends...If you can get by with adding a soil layer in those low areas, I would suggest this approach. The problem we have with these heavy clay soils is that the 17 - 18 different soil types we have in Gaston County do not all match up well and you can create a bigger problem than you already had. You should be particular about using topsoil on the planting areas. Thought should be given to texture, soil structure, organic content and to some degree, color. The biggest problem we have is that these so-called top soils come from everywhere, and often are we inheriting someone else's problems. back to the list
Q. I am planting an annual flower bed. What should I do?
First, if you have a good and trusting relationship with the person you are buying the plants from, then follow their planting and care instructions. If you don't have anyone to ask, then till the bed areas to 6 - 8 inches and mix in some lime and organic matter if needed. Next select the appropriate plants for the site. Select quality looking plants with a healthy root system. Bring them home and place them near the intended planting area for several days for them to adjust, water as needed. Now, plant using the correct spacing for good growth. If you plant too close they may squeeze each other out, or if they are too far apart they look lost in the landscape. Next, water them in and if you have not mixed in a slow feed fertilizer into the soil, use a liquid fertilizer. An example of this is 20-10-10. These fertilizers will need to applied every 2 - 3 weeks. For the rest of the growing season water as needed, deadhead the old fading flowers to keep them flowering and keep an eye out for damaging insects and diseases.back to the list
Q. What can I use to mulch my planting beds with and how much should I use?
There several excellent mulches on the market, sold in bags or as bulk. Buying in bulk is usually cheaper, but you must buy it in larger amounts and sometimes supply the transportation to take it home, this means a pickup truck. The two most often used mulches are pine bark and pine straw. Pine bark should be placed around most plant materials at a depth of 2 - 3 inches, while pine straw should be placed at 3 - 4 inches. If you have come across this great deal on "mulch" and it is more wood chips than bark, turn and run. The wood chips attract termites and the wood must also compost and it needs nutrients to do this. Ask yourself where it will get the needed nitrogen and phosphorus? That's right, from the surrounding soil and then the plant loses out.back to the list
Mark Blevins , Horticulture Agent
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/gaston/
