Spring is springing!

Control weeds early, before they get large and especially before they set seed. A little work now will save you a lot of trouble later - both this spring and next year. Chickweed, henbit, and other "winter annual" weeds are just getting started now. Hand-pulling can be extremely effective.

Use pre-emergent herbicides to kill weed seedlings as they germinate. Pre-emergent herbicides can be used to control crabgrass and other broadleaf weeds in lawns and in flowerbeds. Apply (according to label directions) while the forsythia is in bloom, but before dogwoods bloom, usually mid-March. Apply pre-emergent herbicides to beds before mulching.

TREES, SHRUBS & ORNAMENTALS

Divide fall-blooming perennials, such as asters and mums, that are overgrown. This is an easy way to enlarge your garden without having to purchase more plants. Dig the plants, gently separate them into smaller clumps, and replant immediately. They'll have plenty of time to get re-established before hot weather arrives.

Control leaf gall on azaleas and camellias. Leaf gall, a fungal disease, shows up as swollen leaves covered with a white powdery material. It is unsightly but generally not harmful to the plant. Pick off the affected leaves and burn them or dispose of them in your garbage to avoid spreading the fungus. Do not compost diseased plant material.

VEGETABLES & FRUITS

Plant cool-weather vegetable crops such as lettuce, spinach, and cole crops (such as cabbage and collards) as soon as soil can be worked in spring. If a ball of soil crumbles when squeezed in your fist, the soil is workable.

WILDLIFE & INSECTS

Put up martin and bluebird houses by mid-March. Clean out last year's nesting materials to make the houses more attractive to house-hunting birds.

LANDSCAPE IDEA

Take photographs of your yard while your spring flowers are blooming, so you can remember where to plant more bulbs next fall.

Look under your shade trees. Are you fighting to keep grass growing under your trees? Or is there bare ground that erodes in heavy rains? Trees usually win in any competition for moisture and nutrients, and turfgrass is not well adapted to life in the shade. Mulch or a living groundcover are better alternatives.

o A layer of mulch conserves moisture, reduces erosion, and provides nutrients to the tree as it decomposes. Keep mulch away from the trunk of the tree to discourage rodents and rot. A layer 2-3" thick is ideal; heavier mulching can prevent moisture from reaching the tree's roots.

Ground covers act as a "living mulch." Low-maintenance, shade-tolerant ground covers include pachysandra, periwinkle (vinca), ajuga (bugleweed), liriope or mondo grass.

Protect shade tree roots from injury. Remember that most of a tree's feeder roots are near the soil surface, under and just outside the tree canopy. If roots are injured by digging, foot traffic, or vehicles, damage to the tree can range from slowed growth (minor) to the death of the tree (major!). Some trees, such as dogwoods, are very susceptible to root damage; others, like maples, are more tolerant. To avoid damage, plant only a small amount of ground cover and let the plants fill in.

HOUSEPLANTS

Repot houseplants in fresh commercial potting mix. Before re-using old pots, clean them with detergent and water, or a 10% chlorine bleach solution, to remove salts and disease-causing microorganisms. Wait a month after repotting before fertilizing.

PUBLICATIONS FOR MARCH
Azaleas:
o Azalea Varieties for NC (HIL 629)
o Azalea Culture for NC (HIL 630)
o Azalea Disease Control (Ornamental Disease Note 16)
o Azalea Lace Bugs (Ornamental Insect Note 39)
o and more
Home Vegetable Gardening (AG-06) for info on cool-weather vegetable selections and starting seedlings
Ground Covers for NC (AG-75)