Treatment of storm-damaged trees requires wise decisions and prompt action if the maximum benefit from repair work is to be achieved. Repairs come in two stages: first aid for immediate attention; and follow-up work to be distributed over a period of months to several years. Care for damaged large trees is best left to professionals.

First decide if the tree is worth saving. Does the tree serve a needed function or does it have sentimental or historical value? If over 30 to 50 percent of the main branches or trunk are severely split, broken, or mutilated, the benefit of extensive repairs is questionable. You probably would not want to save less desirable trees, such as black locust, Siberian elm, box elder, mulberry, poplars, and silver maple. More desirable trees, such as oak, maple, pecan, pine, magnolia, holly, and beech may be worth saving unless severely damaged. If the trees are close to power lines, building or other structures, the tree should be removed by a professional. Extremely old, low-vigor trees might not have the ability to recovery.

Small trees which are uprooted should be straightened and staked immediately. Left exposed to sun and wind will severely damage any upturned roots. Remove any damaged roots or branches. Some staking or cabling may be necessary.

Cut off broken and split branches but delay pruning to reshape the tree. Too much removal of wood in one season can create such problems as sunscald, weak branching habits, and sucker growth. Reattach trunk bark to the inner wood with galvanized nails if healing seems possible or trim the wound edges to promote healing. Promptly remove all debris such as broken branches and prunings to help eliminate breeding grounds for insects and diseases.

Lightning
Lightning strikes can cause various symptoms. They usually loosen bark which hangs in strips. The amount of bark loosened depends on the severity of the strike. The lightening bolt may have passed through the trunk and caused considerable internal wood damage that may not be visible. If only a small amount of damage occurred, remove damaged branches and loose bark and provide excellent cultural practices (mulch, water during drought, and fertilize). Damaged trees can die within a short period of time or years later following a period of stress.

Follow-up care for damaged trees
A moderate application of fertilizer may be beneficial. Use 2 pounds of 5-10-5 per inch of trunk diameter measured three feet above the ground. Excessive applications of nitrogen will promote new foliage growth that the tree can not support with its reduced root system. The easiest and most practical method of application is to broadcast the fertilizer over the area of greatest concentration of feeder roots. These are located in a band around the tree starting about two feet from the trunk and extending several feet beyond the ends of the branches. Scatter fertilizer evenly over this area, and apply water liberally to wash it into the ground.

Keep the tree mulched and well watered during stress periods. Gradually prune and reshape trees for balance and general appearance over a period of three to five years. Control devitalizing conditions such as sucker sprouts, insects, and diseases.

Snow/ice damage
Snow and ice on branches can cause them to break or bend from the extra weight. High winds will compound the damage. The result is often misshapened plants from broken or split branches. Little can be done about removing ice from plants. Snow can be removed with a broom. Always sweep upward --- lifting snow off. When the branches are frozen they are quite brittle.

Do not be in a hurry to prune to correct plants bent out of shape by snow or ice. Often the plants will straighten up in a few days by itself. Broken branches, however, should be pruned as soon as possible. Proper pruning is effective in minimizing potential damage from ice and snow. Particularly important is the removal of weak, narrow-angled, v-shaped crotches.

Prepared by: Erv Evans, Consumer Horticulturist, NC State University

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