When planted for a perennialization habit, the following procedures should be used. After flowering, the flower heads should be removed from the stalk. However, leaves should be allowed to senesce for at least ten weeks before removing. It is important for the foliage to continue efficient photosynthesis for a long period in the spring in order to maintain the minimum bulb size for flowering. Therefore, tying or bending the foliage is not advised.
If flowers and leaves become frozen in the spring, do not disturb them!! Allow them to thaw undisturbed so the cells will not break. Damaged tissue is more susceptible to disease and photosynthesis is usually reduced.
Mulching is beneficial in all climatic zones. However, it is essential in North American Climatic Zones 3 to 5 for winter protection.
FERTILIZATION SYSTEMS
Two systems are available and both are satisfactory. They are:
Annual
This system utilizes a single fall application at planting time of sulfur-coated,
slow-release complete (9-9-6) fertilizer (Bulb Booster™). This fertilizer
should be incorporated into the rooting area at planting time at a rate of one
rounded tablespoon per square foot. For perennialization, Bulb Booster™
should be applied each fall after the initial planting.
Semi-Annual
This system requires that the root zone below the bulbs be thoroughly loosened
at planting time. If desired, bone meal, dried blood or other organic amendments
can be incorporated at this time. Subsequently, use an application of 8-8-8
(1 level tablespoon per square foot) or 10-10-10 (1 rounded teaspoon per square
foot) in the fall followed by a repeat application of the same fertilizer as
soon as the shoots break the ground in the spring. Under perennializing conditions,
all bulbs should receive an annual fall and spring application of a soluble
fertilization of 8-8-8 or 10-10-10.
For 100 sq. ft. (9.3 square meters) application of fertilizers, use the following rates:
| Bulb Booster ™ | 4 lbs (1.8 kg) |
| 8 - 8 - 8 | 3 to 4 lbs (1.4 to 1.8 kg) |
| 10 - 10 - 10 | 2 to 3 lbs (0.9 to 1.4 kg) |
DISEASES
Although flower bulbs can be infected by a wide range of diseases (Moore, et
al. 1979), many Narcissus have been selected for tolerance and/or resistance
to most of the serious soil borne diseases. Fusarium is the major one
that affects some cultivars.
The most prevalent foliar disease that must be controlled in the landscape is Botrytis. It is advisable to remove any heavily infested bulbs and to treat with an approved fungicide only when absolutely necessary. Use an IPM approach!! Also, if plants are heavily infected with viruses, they should be removed.
INSECTS
There are several insects that can attack Narcissus. Among them are:
aphids, thrips, and mites. Gardeners should always check their plants and be
certain to correctly identify the insect prior to spraying with an insecticide.
Assistance for insect identification and the selection of the proper insecticide
can be obtained from your local Extension Office. Use an IPM approach!
ANIMAL TOLERANCE
Narcissus are poisonous to animals, even humans. Therefore, most animals do
not disturb them. Occasionally, however, squirrels can dig them up, especially
when the flower bed has just been planted.
DIVIDING OR HARVESTING THE BULBS
Unless Narcissus must be moved, splitting or harvesting of the bulbs
is not advised or necessary. However, if the bulbs must be lifted, wait until
the foliage has completely turned yellow. Subsequently, harvest them, being
careful not to damage the bulbs during the digging process. After lifting, dry
the bulbs in a single layer in a well aerated area for a few days. Then place
them in open trays and store hardy Narcissus at 60-70°F
(16-20°C) and Paperwhite
Narcissus at 78-86°F
(25-30°C) in a well ventilated,
ethylene-free area until replanted in the fall. Generally, only large, flowering
size (greater than 12 cm, in circumference) bulbs are replanted.