Drainage - When an area is poorly drained, four techniques can be used to improve it. They are:

• Construct raised beds using railroad ties, construction timbers, stacked stone, brick or other suitable materials. In many instances, this is an effective system to use. It must, however, be
  incorporated into the overall garden plan.
• Incorporating organic matter. In many instances, incorporating 50%, by volume, of organic matter such as shredded pine bark or compost will greatly improve the drainage of the soil. If, however, the bulbs are to be planted with herbaceous perennials, high levels of non-composted organic matter should not be used.
• Modified mulching system. In recent years, a planting system using pine bark mulch has been developed for heavy, poorly drained soils. In this system, the site is rototilled 4 inches (10 cm) deep, the bulbs are spaced properly and they are subsequently covered with 5 to 8 inches (12.5-20 cm) of 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) screened pine bark mulch amended with lime at the rate of five pounds/cubic yard. The mulch provides winter protection. This system also takes into consideration that most flower bulbs produce contractile roots. These roots will position the bulbs at the optimal depth for subsequent growth and development.
• Installing drainage tiles. This is expensive, but it may be necessary if other alternatives are not available or useful.

Adjusting the soil pH - The optimal pH range for most flower bulbs is 6 to 7. Therefore, the soil should be tested. If the pH must be adjusted, the following information can be used as guidelines (Reference: Sudbury).

• The amount of additive required to change pH depends on the type of soil. There are three basic soil types:
  • Sandy soils - 60% sand, 15% clay and 25% silt. Water is absorbed quickly and they dry out rapidly.
  • Loam soils - Equal parts sand, clay, and silt. Easily tilled and retains moisture. The best soils.
  • Silt or clay loam soils - 25% sand and 75% clay/silt. Tends to compact. Water is not absorbed, but puddles and runs off.
• The following additives can be used, to raise the pH 1 unit:

• The following additives can be used, to lower the pH 1 unit:

Note: For sandy soils use 33% less. For silt or clay loom soils use 15% more.

All additives used to raise pH should be incorporated into the soil at least one week before fertilizer is applied. Hydrated or spray lime reacts almost immediately. Other additives take months and, therefore, should be applied in the fall of the year for the next growing season. Never apply more than 50 pounds of lime per 1,000 square feet per application and never mix fertilizer with lime.

Preplant Weed Control
Glyphosate (Roundup™) can be used to establish a weed free site before bulbs are planted (Reference: Skroch and Derr, 1992). In order to plant flower bulbs in September to November, site preparation must begin in summer (August). Total preparation time is approximately 4 to 6 weeks using the following method:

• Be sure the area has not been mowed, so grass and weeds will be the proper size at the time of spraying as specified on the glyphosate label.
• Spray only when the plants are dry. Uniformly spray the area for coverage but do not wet the plants to runoff.
• Allow at least 6 hours of drying time for maximum plant kill with glyphosate. The timing of this first application should coincide with active weed growth because the optimum susceptibility to glyphosate for perennial weeds is when they are actively growing. In addition, they are most susceptible when they are not stressed.
• Seven to 10 days after the initial spray when the grass and weeds are dying, till the site and prepare it for planting. This should be accomplished by mid-September for planting in early October.
• If weeds emerge, retreat with glyphosate 2 to 4 weeks after the final tilling and bed preparation. Tilling will bring new weed seed to the surface. The soil will be warm and if sufficient moisture is present, many annual weed seed may germinate. These seedlings will die within 7 days after the treatment.