NCSU Entomology Insect Notes

Step Three - Control

Chemical Control
mattress encasement for bed bug control The next step is to treat the possible daytime hiding places of bed bugs. There a many products available for bed bug control but some work strictly as contact insecticides that must be applied directly to the insects and only kill those to which the product is applied. In most cases residual insecticides (those that leave an effective residual on a surface) are needed. Such applications are best done as a "crack and crevice" treatments to gaps around baseboards and other such items. Insecticidal dust formulations such as diatomaceous earth, silica gel, and more conventional dust insecticides provide long residual in these locations. Not all dust products are available to the general public and care must be exercised when applying them so you don't inhale the product. Pesticide applications to furniture, particularly mattresses, should be limited (and perhaps done by a pest control professional). Many pest control services now recommend (or require) that treated mattresses and box springs be placed inside sealable covers (shown at right) that prevent bed bugs from escaping the treatment and also keep other bed bugs from re-infesting the items. When treating furniture for bed bugs make sure you use only products that are labeled for application to these items. You can click on the following links for examples of pesticides available to the general public and pest management professionals. Always read the label and follow directions and safety precautions.

Never use insecticide products that are intended for outdoor use only or for agricultural use. They may pose a significant risk to your health.
Never apply chemicals at concentrations higher than what is listed on the product label or apply them more frequently than what is recommended. Overapplying pesticides will not improve control but can endanger your health. In most situations, a single application does not seem to give complete or immediate control. Additional treatments may be needed in 7-14 days. In some cases, a third or fourth treatment may be needed particularly if all infested sites have not been identified.

Trailer fumigation of infested furniture

For extreme or difficult infestations, fumigation may be needed (picture at right). Fumigation is a not the same as using a "fogger" (total release aerosol). Foggers will not eradicate a bed bug infestation. Fumigation uses a gas that is toxic to the insects and usually requires that furniture be placed in a container and sealed for treatment or it may require that the entire house be covered with a tarpaulin and treated. Fumigation is a costly and time-consuming process and should be used only when absolutely necessary.

Non-Chemical Control

Mattress next to dumpster Some people may prefer to dispose of infested mattresses and other furniture. It is important to dispose of these items properly. First, it's important to wrap the item in plastic sheeting before carrying it outdoors so you bed bugs crawling onto you unnoticed or dropping off indoors further spreading the infestation. Second, whether you live in a house or an apartment building, never put infested furniture at the curb or next to a dumpster without first rendering it unuseable (cutting the fabric). Otherwise, someone might take the item further spreading the infestation.

If you suspect that clothing is infested, wash the items in hot water (or follow the tag on the article) and when possible dry them in a clothes dryer for at least 45 minutes. Other items may require drycleaning which can become an expensive option. Isolating them in garbage bags may work but remember that bed bugs can survive for months without feeding.

Physical barriers such as double-sided tape on the legs of beds can help keep bed bugs from crawling onto the frame. However, it's important to keep bedspreads, blankets, etc. from touching the floor and providing bed bugs with an "alternate" route onto the bed. These physical barriers help but they are by no means a cure for bed bug infestation.

Heat treatment in a bed bug infested apartment Many pest control companies now offer a steam treatment for infested furniture including mattresses and box springs. You can also have the mattress and box spring sanitized. Click here for information about the North Carolina Bedding Program.

Another control method that has proven to be effective is heat treatment. This requires that all of the suspected items or in many cases the entire living area be sealed and heated for several hours to >113°F (picture at right).

Protecting Yourself From Infestations
It's difficult to know when and where you might pick up bed bugs. Don't assume that higher priced hotels or vacation rental properties cannot become infested from previous visitors. Despite the best preventive efforts, almost any property can become home to these hitch-hiking pests. Some measures you can take to reduce the likelihood of a problem:

Bed bugs were once considered to be a major pest in homes, but improved sanitation and chemical control reduced this problem to a minor one. Although many people still associate bed bugs with unsanitary conditions, we have seen a growing problem even in clean homes, hotels or other buildings. There has been some indirect evidence that bed bug problems may be on the rise because of increased tourism and changes in tactics for controlling cockroaches with the emphasis on using baits and less on using liquid insecticides. Our primary concern is with the bed bug species, Cimex lectularius; however, there are other related species more frequently associated with birds and bats. These species may show up in homes when birds or bats have been nesting on/within the structure. However, they are less frequently the cause of a problem for people. Another species, Cimex hemipterus, is usually found in more tropical areas and may show up particularly for people engaged in international travel.
Identification Bed bugs adults are reddish-brown, oval, flattened insects from 6 to 9 mm long and 1.5 to 3 mm wide before feeding. Engorged (blood-fed) adults are swollen and dull red. Though wingless, adult bed bugs do have small wing pads. The eyes are deeply pigmented and the sides of the collar-like pronotum curve slightly around the head. The nymphs (immatures) resemble the adult though they are smaller in size. Newly hatched nymphs are almost colorless whereas engorged nymphs are reddish and swollen Bed bug eggs are white, oval egg is about 1 mm long.
Life Cycle and Habits Although humans are the preferred host, bed bugs feed on many warmblooded animals. Animal hosts include poultry, rats, mice, dogs, cats, pigeons, canaries, rabbits, and guinea pigs. Wild animals, including bats, swallows and chimney swifts may also serve as hosts and may be responsible for causing infestations in or around buildings (although we more typically see other Cimex species in those situations). There has been no scientifically-based evidence showing that bed bugs transmit diseases. Bed bugs do not bore into the skin. Our major concern is more towards their feeding. They insert their mouthparts into the host's skin and suck out blood. As bed bugs feed, they inject saliva which may produces an allergic reaction that often causes slightly delayed swelling, itching, and irritation that can persist for a week or more. Bed bugs also emit an noticeable odor.	Bed bug and fecal smears on mattress
Bed bugs can feed and breed year round when conditions permit. They typically hide during the day in mattresses or cracks and crevices. The picture above shows a bed bug and fecal stains in a mattress seam. Under favorable conditions, each female lays 200 to 500 eggs. When the insects feed regularly, eggs are laid in batches of 10 to 50 at 3 to 15-day intervals. Maximum egg laying occurs when the temperature is above 70°F (21°C). Eggs are typically not deposited when temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C). The eggs are coated with a sticky substance that dries after the egg is deposited and causes the eggs to adhere to the object on which they were deposited. Eggs and the eggshells are found, singly or in clusters, near the crevices in which the bugs hide. At temperatures above 21°C (70°F), eggs hatch in 6 to 17 days. At lower temperatures, hatching may take as long as 28 days. Newly hatched bugs feed at the first opportunity. They molt five times before reaching maturity and require at least one blood meal between each molt. Immature stages can survive approximately two months without feeding; however, most nymphs usually develop into adults within 2 to 6 weeks. Indoors, three or four annual generations may be produced. Bed bug adults often survive up to 2 months without food, but under certain circumstances can live a year or more without feeding. As a result, you will find all stages of bed bugs in an established infestation. Bed bugs cannot fly and do not normally crawl long distances. Their primary means of dispersal is through human activity, i.e., people move them from one place to another in luggage, laundry, etc. Animals, particularly birds and bat, may be involved in bed/bat bug dispersal. Piles of cast nymphal skins often accumulate in bed bug hiding places.
Eliminating Bed Bugs Step One - confirm that you do have bed bugs. Most of our infestations have been true bed bugs, but on occasion we have had bat bugs and swallow bugs which are difficult to distinguish without a microscope or high magnification lens. A pest control service may be able to help you or you can contact your local county Cooperative Extension Center. If you do have bat bugs, check attics, eaves and roof overhangs for signs of bat. If you have bats roosting in your attic, contact a pest control company or wildlife damage control company in your area for assistance. Although most of our bed bug problems are not associated with birds or bats, it's always a good idea to eliminate them as a possible source of an infestation or other potential problems. Remove old nesting material.
Step Two - Locate all of their hiding places: Furniture, particularly bedroom furniture must be inspected carefully. When possible, dismantle the bed for easier inspection and possible treatment. Inspect the mattress and box spring thoroughly. Be sure to check the holes or slots where sections such as the sides, head and foot boards attach. Check under and behind other pieces of furniture, such as chairs, couches, dressers, nightstands, etc. Pull out dressers drawers, inspect them carefully and check the interior of the dresser before reinserting the drawers. Check the undersides of lamps, clocks, radio, phones and other objects that might be on nightstands. Pull back the dust covers on the undersides of chairs and couches and check particularly around the legs and frame. Remove and inspect objects, such as pictures, mirrors, curtains, etc., that are hung or mounted on walls. Check obvious cracks and crevices along baseboards. Remove the covers on electrical outlets and switches and inspect the boxes for signs of bed bugs. Inspect torn or loose wallpaper and decorative borders. Check all clothing and other items stored in areas where bed bugs have been found. If you have traveled in the last few months, inspect your luggage as well as the entire closet/storage area (and its contents) where you store your luggage. Some pest control companies offer the services of a specially-trained dog to detect bed bugs. We are not endorsing their sevices specifically, but if a problem persists, it may be a worthwhile to seek this type of help. As with any pest control service, make sure you understand the terms and any guarantees before you sign any contracts. Step Three - Control Chemical Control The next step is to treat the possible daytime hiding places of bed bugs. There a many products available for bed bug control but some work strictly as contact insecticides that must be applied directly to the insects and only kill those to which the product is applied. In most cases residual insecticides (those that leave an effective residual on a surface) are needed. Such applications are best done as a "crack and crevice" treatments to gaps around baseboards and other such items. Insecticidal dust formulations such as diatomaceous earth, silica gel, and more conventional dust insecticides provide long residual in these locations. Not all dust products are available to the general public and care must be exercised when applying them so you don't inhale the product. Pesticide applications to furniture, particularly mattresses, should be limited (and perhaps done by a pest control professional). Many pest control services now recommend (or require) that treated mattresses and box springs be placed inside sealable covers (shown at right) that prevent bed bugs from escaping the treatment and also keep other bed bugs from re-infesting the items. When treating furniture for bed bugs make sure you use only products that are labeled for application to these items. You can click on the following links for examples of pesticides available to the general public and pest management professionals. Always read the label and follow directions and safety precautions. Never use insecticide products that are intended for outdoor use only or for agricultural use. They may pose a significant risk to your health. Never apply chemicals at concentrations higher than what is listed on the product label or apply them more frequently than what is recommended. Overapplying pesticides will not improve control but can endanger your health. In most situations, a single application does not seem to give complete or immediate control. Additional treatments may be needed in 7-14 days. In some cases, a third or fourth treatment may be needed particularly if all infested sites have not been identified. For extreme or difficult infestations, fumigation may be needed (picture at right). Fumigation is a not the same as using a "fogger" (total release aerosol). Foggers will not eradicate a bed bug infestation. Fumigation uses a gas that is toxic to the insects and usually requires that furniture be placed in a container and sealed for treatment or it may require that the entire house be covered with a tarpaulin and treated. Fumigation is a costly and time-consuming process and should be used only when absolutely necessary. Non-Chemical Control Some people may prefer to dispose of infested mattresses and other furniture. It is important to dispose of these items properly. First, it's important to wrap the item in plastic sheeting before carrying it outdoors so you bed bugs crawling onto you unnoticed or dropping off indoors further spreading the infestation. Second, whether you live in a house or an apartment building, never put infested furniture at the curb or next to a dumpster without first rendering it unuseable (cutting the fabric). Otherwise, someone might take the item further spreading the infestation. If you suspect that clothing is infested, wash the items in hot water (or follow the tag on the article) and when possible dry them in a clothes dryer for at least 45 minutes. Other items may require drycleaning which can become an expensive option. Isolating them in garbage bags may work but remember that bed bugs can survive for months without feeding. Physical barriers such as double-sided tape on the legs of beds can help keep bed bugs from crawling onto the frame. However, it's important to keep bedspreads, blankets, etc. from touching the floor and providing bed bugs with an "alternate" route onto the bed. These physical barriers help but they are by no means a cure for bed bug infestation. Many pest control companies now offer a steam treatment for infested furniture including mattresses and box springs. You can also have the mattress and box spring sanitized. Click here for information about the North Carolina Bedding Program. Another control method that has proven to be effective is heat treatment. This requires that all of the suspected items or in many cases the entire living area be sealed and heated for several hours to >113°F (picture at right). Protecting Yourself From Infestations It's difficult to know when and where you might pick up bed bugs. Don't assume that higher priced hotels or vacation rental properties cannot become infested from previous visitors. Despite the best preventive efforts, almost any property can become home to these hitch-hiking pests. Some measures you can take to reduce the likelihood of a problem: Check your room carefully, particularly looking for signs of bed bug activity on the mattress or headboard. Keep luggage off the floor and check shelves before placing luggage on them. Be careful about furniture and other items picked up at yard sales. Never buy mattresses and/or boxsprings unless they have a tag showing that they were sterilized by a state-certified bedding sanitizer. Information and the bed bug image used in this publication were taken from Insects and Related Pests of Man and Animals (AG-369, North Carolina State University). Picture of mattress of encasement courtesy of Rick Cooper, Cooper Pest Solutions, Lawrenceville, NJ

Bed Bugs - Biology and Control Michael Waldvogel and Charles Apperson, Entomology Extension Specialists	Insect Note - ENT/rsc-#31

Eliminating Bed Bugs