Pruning Calendar for Cumberland County
| Month | Plants | Remarks |
|---|---|---|
| January | Shade trees: oaks, hickory, beech, black gum, poplar, ginkgo, etc. * | Prune broken limbs. Do not prune "bleeder" trees (See JULY). |
| February | Fruit trees: apples, pear, plum, cherry, peach, nectarine. | Prune annually for best fruit production. |
| Grapes | Prune annually so training is easier. | |
| Summer-flowering shrubs: crepemyrtle, rose of sharon (althea), butterfly bush (buddleia) | Prune if shrub-like form is desired. Cut out oldest canes to rejuvenate bush. | |
| Ornamental grasses: liriope, pampas grass, mondo grass, etc. | Optimal to trim off last year's growth before this year's growth begins. | |
| Overgrown shrubbery: ligustrum, privet, osmanthus, photinia (red tip), holly, boxwood, cleyera | Prune in late February to desired size. Rejuvenate by pruning out 1/3 of bush each year, but do not cut more than 1/3 of bush in any one year. | |
| Camellia: japonica and sasanqua | Prune anytime after flowering but not later than July 4th. | |
| Crabapple | Prune out water sprouts and out-of-shape limbs. | |
| Southern Magnolia | Little pruning needed. * Remove water sprouts. | |
| March | Roses | Prune annually for best flower production. |
| Nandina | Prune as needed. Cut oldest canes to ground. Other canes will resprout at the level you cut them. | |
| Abelia | Shape plants to desired form early in March. | |
| Spring-flowering shrubs: spirea, lilac, forsythia, flowering quince, breath-of-spring, weigelia, etc. | Prune IMMEDIATELY after flowering, but not after July 4th. In general, cut oldest limbs to ground level for constant rejuvenation of shrubs. | |
| April | Azaleas | Prune AFTER flowering but never after July 4th (late pruning cuts off next year's blossoms). |
| Winter-damaged plants | Cut out any cold-damaged branches at the end of the month. | |
| Berry-producing shrubs: hollies, pyracantha, etc. | Prune while in flower to prevent removal of all berries. Shape to desired form. | |
| Spring-flowering trees | Prune only as needed, immediately after blooming. | |
| May | Rhododendron | Prune after flowering, never after July 4th. Always prune to a whorl or leaves or to the next branch. |
| Hedges: privet, abelia, holly, euonymus, boxwood, etc. | Prune as desired, always make top narrower than bottom. | |
| June | Narrow-leafed evergreens: hemlock, white pine, juniper, arborvitae, yew | Prune late in June and only into new growth; brown wood will not regenerate greenery. |
| Gardenias | Prune immediately after bloom, not after July 4th. | |
| Perennials: phlox, shasta daisies, daylilies | Remove old flowers to encourage re-bloom. | |
| Chrysanthemums | Pinch out growth tips to make bushier plants, discontinue pinching around July 15. | |
| Hydrangea: French or florist | Prune while flowering or immediately after. Don't wait for last blossom to fade before pruning. | |
| Fruit trees | Remove water sprouts. | |
| July-August | "Bleeder" trees: maple, birch, elms, dogwoods | Prune damaged limbs or trim as desired. Dogwoods: prune only with indication, best left in natural shape. |
| Roses | Prune leggy plants only and fertilize after pruning for fall flowering. | |
| Hedges | As needed, keep bottom wider than top. | |
| Brambles: blackberry, raspberry | Prune out the wood that bore fruit, cutting canes to ground level. | |
| September to December | Any plants | DO NOT PRUNE shrubs in late summer/early fall. Pruning stimulates new growth which may not have time to harden off before frost. You may remove any deadwood from shrubs or trees. |
| Weed trees and brush | Remove any underbrush now when it is easiest to see. | |
| Holly, nandina, pyracantha | Use berries in Christmas decorations. | |
| Take a rest until January!! |
* Note: Some trees should be allowed to have their limbs grow to the ground (sweep): southern magnolia, deodara cedar, american holly, hemlock, and white pine.
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