Asparagus will grow in any well drained soil and, with proper bed
preparation and summer care, the plants should produce for 15
years or more. Therefore, since the crop will occupy the land
for a long period of time, you should start the bed properly:
location, soil type, soil fertility, size and age of crowns, and
correct planting are important. Allow about 10 plants per family
member.
Site: Select a sunny location, well-drained location for
the bed. Soil should have a large amount of organic matter
tilled in, so that the tender spears can penetrate the soil. At
the same time, till in lime and fertilizer as indicated by a soil test. In the
absence of a soil
test, incorporate 3-5 lb. of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 sf of
bed. The pH should be 6.0 - 6.7. Asparagus will not
grow in very acid soil.
Variety: New Jersey hybrids are now recommended over old
faithful Mary/Martha Washington.
NJ hybrid male plants are very productive, maintain vigor as they
age, produce earlier, and can
be harvested more heavily. Two-year old crowns are desirable,
but one-year crowns may be used.
A two-year evaluation trial of 14 cultivars at
Whitethorne-Kentland Research Farm near Blacksburg, Virginia,
found the following results:
To grow your own crowns: plant seed in spring 1/2" deep and 2"
apart in rows 2-3' apart. Germination is hastened by soaking in
water 2-3 days before planting. Dig and transplant the seedlings
the following spring into the permanent bed.
When: Plant in fall or late winter after hard frost
danger has passed but before plant growth
begins.
Planting: Deep planting is no longer recommended. Dig a
trench no deeper than 5-6" and wide enough so that the root of
the crown can be fully spread out. Set plants so that buds are
pointing upward, and cover with soil to ground level. Water
well. The roots will spread horizontally rather than down, and
in years to come will produce a thick mat of roots and
underground shoots. To allow for long-term future growth, rows
should be 5' apart.
Watering: Watering is extremely important any time there
is a lack of adequate rainfall during
the growing season.
Fertilizer: Fertilize established beds twice each year:
1) about March 1-15 (before spears start to grow), broadcast over
the bed 2-5 lbs of 5-10-10 per 100 sf bed area.
2) Repeat the application at the end of the cutting season.
Maintenance: Weeds are the biggest problem of asparagus
culture, since they offer a great deal of competition for the
developing shoots. Be diligent about weed control as the bed can
quickly be overtaken, to the detriment of the asparagus.
Cultivation must be very shallow since the roots are near the
surface. Two inches of light mulch will discourage weeds and
help
conserve moisture.
Allow spears to grow until after frost has turned them brown.
During the summer, the ferny top growth is producing food for the
shoots below. When the fern has been turned brown by frost, cut
it down and destroy it. Cutting the fern before natural
withering will reduce next year's crop.
Harvesting: no harvesting should be done during first growing
season. Recent research has shown that harvesting shallow-
planted asparagus after the first year boosts yields 40% over
three years. Thereafter harvesting may be done from 6-8 weeks per
year. Weak or small spears result from harvesting too
extensively and not allowing sufficient fern to develop to
produce food for the next year. Snap spears off at ground level
or exercise care when cutting so as not to damage spears which
have not yet emerged.
Storage: asparagus loses quality and fiber develops rapidly
after harvest. Wash and cool
asparagus soon after harvest. If asparagus wilts, it can be made
turgid by soaking in water.
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