Definition: Grasses that grow actively in summer and go
dormant in cool weather. All warm season grasses turn
tan-colored from November through April.
Cool season grasses (Fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, etc.) thrive
in cool weather and go semi-dormant in the hot summer months. Do
not mix warm and cool
season grasses in a lawn. Their cultural requirements are
exactly opposite and neither will thrive well.
When: Warm season lawns may be started from seed while
others must be sprigged. Whichever you choose, neither is done
before all danger of frost is past, when temperatures are
consistently in the 70's, usually in May in Cumberland County.
Soil Preparation for new lawns: PREPARING THE AREA IS THE
MOST IMPORTANT STEP and is the same for whichever grass you
choose. There are no short cuts, and there is no grass which
will survive in our clay without proper soil preparation. Use a
nonselective herbicide to kill existing weeds, observing waiting
time on label before proceeding. Rototill the area 6-8" deep,
add proper amounts of lime and fertilizer as determined by a soil test, and incorporate
them
thoroughly. Rake and level the area. Unless the entire
potential root zone is uniformly limed and fertilized (if
indicated), turfgrass roots will never successfully occupy this
zone and will die during stress periods. Water immediately after
planting and keep soil surface moist until plants are well
established.
Renovating a lawn: Re-seeding or sprigging requires
proper soil preparation also. Use an aerator or vigorously
scratch soil with a rake so that seed/soil contact is made or to
loosen soil for sprigs.
Thatch: is the accumulation of living and dead plant
materials at the soil surface, plant parts shed by the grass
plants as new parts are produced. Never allow thatch to exceed
1/2". Excessive thatch can prevent water and oxygen from
reaching the roots, and both insects and diseases readily thrive
in a thick thatch
layer. Power rakes may be rented or you may mow closely and rake
by hand.
Fertilizer: To determine amounts needed to apply 1 pound
of Nitrogen to 1000 sf, divide 100 by the FIRST number on
the bag. Ex: for 10-10-10 fertilizer, divide 100 by 10. The
result is 10 pounds of fertilizer per 1000 sf. Timing and
amounts are listed under individual grasses.
Weed Control: For either pre-emergent or post-emergent
weed control, look for products labeled for your particular
grass. Each grass has its own unique sensitivity and tolerance.
Some labels say "for Southern Grasses" but you must be certain
the label lists your grass and that you follow instructions
exactly. Some products have specific precautions about use on
newly-seeded lawns.
Advantages: Good drought tolerance, good disease and wear
resistance, quick to establish, well
adapted to our soils. Bermuda is the only warm season grass you
can overseed with ryegrass for a longer period of green.
Others will be weakened by overseeding.
Disadvantages: Not very cold hardy, needs full sun
(won't grow even in light shade), spreads aggressively into
shrub beds.
Varieties: Common Bermudagrass: can be started from
sprigs, sod, or seeds. Seeding rate is 1-2 lb. per 1000 sf.
Needs less maintenance than hybrid cultivars.
Tifway, Tifway II: best hybrids for most lawns. Especially
useful for heavy traffic
areas, playgrounds, golf fairways. Plant by sprigs.
Culture and Maintenance:
Plant: seed or sprigs in May are best; no later than
July. Mow: very low and often, without scalping, about
1" in height
Fertilize: 1 lb. nitrogen/1000 sf,
starting in spring several weeks after grass turns
green, then every 6 weeks through August. Fertilizing too early
is harmful.
Lime: May need lime. Have soil tested every 2-3
years to determine needs. Can be applied at any time
on
established lawns but winter is the ideal time.
Water: 1" to 1-1/4" per week.
Weed Control: Look for products labeled for
Bermudagrass.
Pre-emergents: For some broadleaf weeds + crabgrass,
goosegrass, foxtails: April
Post-emergents: For broadleaf weeds, can be applied as
needed, starting in May, several
weeks after grass turns green.
Thatch: If necessary to de-thatch, hand- or
power-rake in late spring/early summer.
Advantages: Soft, thick, chokes out weeds, tolerates
drought, grows in sun or light shade, wear resistant low
maintenance.
Disadvantages: Slow to establish (2-3
years); thatch may be a problem.
Varieties: Emerald: fine texture, good winter
hardiness, shade tolerant. Meyer Z-52: Most cold
tolerant, establishes fairly quickly, good for home lawns.
Japonica: Coarse leaf, cold tolerant.
Culture and Maintenance:
Plant: Sod or plugs in May. Seed may not be readily
available. 4" plugs have best survival chance.
Or buy sod and cut it up yourself. ("Bargain" ads are
often for 1" or 2" plugs)
Mow: Short: 1/2" to 1".
Fertilize: 1/2 lb. nitrogen/1000 sf after
grass turns green in May; repeat in June and in August
Mid-August is latest safe time. Zoysia is very
sensitive to over-fertilizing.
Lime: same as Bermuda grass.
Water: same as Bermuda grass.
Thatch: Has tendency to accumulate in zoysia.
Needs de-thatching every 1-2 years by power- or
hand-raking in late April.
Advantages: Grows in acid soil, very low maintenance
(less mowing, little or no fertilizer), grows in full sun to
moderate shade.
Disadvantages: Does not tolerate
drought, traffic, high pH, and is susceptible to pest-related
problems and cold damage.
Culture and Maintenance:
Plant: Seeding rate: 1/4 lb. per 1000 sf, or sprig in
May.
Mow: 1" height.
Fertilize: 1/2 lb. nitrogen per 1000 sf. ONCE
A YEAR in June if needed. Will not tolerate
excess nitrogen, nor fertilizing at wrong times. Have
soil tested for proper amounts.
Lime: Do NOT lime unless recommended by a soil
test.
Water: 1" per week.
Weed Control: Centipede is especially sensitive
to certain herbicides; product must be labeled for Centipede
grass.
Pre-emergents: for some broadleaf weeds, crabgrass,
goosegrass, foxtails: April.
Post-emergents: for broadleaf weeds, use in May,
several weeks after grass turns green,
only as needed. Do not apply unless grass and weeds
are actively growing.
Thatch: De-thatch in late May if necessary by
power- or hand-raking.
Description: A coarse-leaf grass mostly adapted to sunny or shady areas in the Coastal Plain. Will also grow in well-drained soil in shade in Central Piedmont. Moderate to low wear resistance. Must plant sprigs. Variety: "Raleigh" variety is cold-tolerant cultivar with good disease resistance. Fertilizer: 1/2 lb. nitrogen per 1000 sf in May and again in June. Increase to 1 lb. nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. in July, and revert to 1/2 lb.per 1000 sf in August.
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