Things to Do in November
FALL IS FOR PLANTING (Spring is for
Pruning)
- TREE AND SHRUB PLANTING - Fall is the ideal time
for
planting evergreens, conifers and deciduous plants. The cool
weather permits establishment of a root system before next year's
hot weather. November and December are better, but you may plant
up through January and early February. If several shrubs are to
be planted, rototill the entire bed area. Adding an organic
amendment is helpful. Trees should not have the soil amended.
If the tree roots cannot live in our native soil, the tree cannot
survive here. Dig or rototill an area 5 times the diameter of
the planting ball to a depth of 12". See
Planting Trees and Shrubs in Clay Soils.
- TRANSPLANTING EVERGREEN AND DECIDUOUS TREES AND
SHRUBS -
November through early February is the ideal time. In selecting
sites, be certain to allow space for the plant at maturity. A
common mistake is placing a large or fast-growing plant where
there is not enough room for full height and spread. The error
results in continuous pruning to attempt to keep the plant within
a size that nature never intended it to be.
- SELECTING TREES AND SHRUBS FOR THE LANDSCAPE -
Buying on
impulse can be costly and labor-intensive in the future.
Planning pays dividends in the long run. Do a thorough site
analysis, making a simple "map" locating existing trees, shrubs
and yard features that you want or need. Spend some time
browsing at the library for ideas. You will find many excellent
gardening books there. Consider a planting plan from a landscape
designer. Call for a pamphlet on "Residential Landscaping" for
an organized approach.
- FESCUE LAWNS - The November fertilization (the
Thanksgiving one) is the most important one of the year. The
soil is still warm enough to permit the root growth that enables
the grass to withstand the rigors of next summer's baking heat.
In the absence of a soil test, apply 10 lbs. of 10-10-10 per 1000
sq. ft. of lawn. Every 2-3 years add a total of 75 lbs. of
dolomitic lime per 1000 sq. ft., dividing the lime and applying
it in two applications a month apart.
- SOIL TEST
- Have your
soil
tested now so that you are
ready for the spring. Lime takes several months to change the pH
of our clay soil. Lab turnaround time is shorter in the fall.
Soil test kits are available at the Cooperative Extension Service
Office.
- MULCH shrubs, trees, perennials, and herbs after
the first
killing frost for winter protection.
- PLANT SPRING FLOWERING BULBS - Use a bulb
fertilizer or
one rounded tablespoon of 10-10-10 per square foot, incorporated
at the root level.
- GARDEN CLEANUP TIME - This is an ideal time to get
the
garden ready for spring. Remove all plant debris and dispose of
it properly, especially if any disease was present. Do not
compost diseased materials. Rototill the garden to expose insect
and disease organisms to the cold, decreasing the incidence next
year. Incorporate organic matter and lime if needed. You'll be
ready to plant next spring while your neighbors are waiting for
the soil to dry out enough for tilling.
- As winter approaches, CUTTING AND STACKING FIREWOOD
occupies many homeowners' weekends. Wood frequently gets stacked
directly on the ground (or "safely" on the slab floor of the
garage) and directly up against the side of the house. If won't
take long for an assortment of six-legged (and other legged)
critters to take up residence in the pile. Some of these
"visitors" are merely a nuisance, while others are potentially
serious pests.
Wood-to-ground contact is the tried-and-true pathway for nearby
termites and carpenter ant colonies. If the stack is not used up
and more wood is added over the years, the bottom pieces become
attractive as a food and/or nesting source for these pests.
Eventually the stack becomes a highway to a new site: the house
itself.
Last revised 5/5/98
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