Things to Do in April

CRAPEMYRTLES. Apply a light application of 10-10-10 early in April and again in early June. Heavy applications produce lush vegetative growth but fewer flowers as well as greater susceptibility to winter injury. If the tree appears healthy, omit the June application.

PERENNIAL PLANTS should be set out this month so they may become established before hot weather sets in. Prepare beds using leaf compost or pine bark.

SUMMER BULBS can be planted in late April. These include Dahlias, Gladiolus, Tuberoses, Fancy-Leafed Caladiums, Elephant Ears, Amaryllis and Cannas. Start digging and storing early flowering bulbs such as Ranunculus and Anemones as their foliage begins to yellow.

FIREBLIGHT OF APPLES AND PEARS are common diseases this time of year. Sprays should be applied during bloom. A regular spray program must be maintained throughout the growing season if you want acceptable fruit.

SPRAY ROSES every 7-10 days until frost, beginning with the onset of new growth.

AZALEAS - Lacebugs are the most common insect pest on Azaleas. Watch for whitish, stippled leaves with tiny flecks on the undersides of the leaves. Systemic insecticides include Cygon and Orthene. Since lacebugs feed on the undersides of the leaves, non-systemic material such as horticultural oil and insecticidal soap must be applied there. Thorough coverage is essential, and repeat applications will probably be necessary.

LEAF GALL ON AZALEAS AND CAMELLIAS are best controlled by handpicking the fleshy leaves and destroying them, or by spraying them with Zineb before bloom.

POST BULB PERFORMANCE. After the petals fade and fall off, remove flower heads with scissors or hand pruners, and allow the foliage to die a natural death. If you plant bulbs for only one season, then once the petals fade you can remove the entire plant. Do not fold, twist or braid foliage.

FLOWER BED PREPARATION. Prepare new flower beds now for this spring. Summer annuals and bulbs perform better and for longer periods if planted in well-prepared beds. Although it is too early to plant, it isn't too early to till, incorporate organic matter, lime, and fertilize. If the area is worked now, a shallow "fluff-up" and hand raking is all that is necessary at planting time. Be sure to properly crown the bed to send the excess water to the edges.

IS THE SOIL TOO WET? Stay out of the garden when the soil is wet! Our clay soils are already compacted. Working in or on wet soil worsens the compaction markedly by decreasing the pore spaces available to hold oxygen. Neither gardeners nor their plants can survive without oxygen. In addition, working around wet plants is a good way to spread diseases. Your lawn will thank you for not walking on it during wet weather. To decide if the soil is suitable for tilling, plowing or digging, take a handful of soil from 4-5" below the surface and squeeze it in your fist. If it crumbles, the soil is workable. If it holds its shape, it is still too wet, and you'll pay for a long time afterward for not letting the soil dry out for a few more days.

AERIFY WARM SEASON LAWNS to warm the soil temperatures and allow for better water infiltration and gas exchange (oxygen and carbon dioxide).

Last revised 05/01/98

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