NC

"Plow Sharing"

A monthly newsletter devoted to sustainable farming practices ecological principles, and increasing the profitability of our farming community.

May 2000 Issue

Low Poly-Tunnel Trial Update
Low Poly-Tunnel Construction
Spinach Trial
Full Year Vegetable Trials
Ethnic Vegetable Trials
Cover Crop Demonstration Planned
Fearrington Market to Celebrate 10 th Anniversary
Extension Farmeres Market Web Page
Farming 2000 & Beyond Update
Raising Tomatoes
Garlic Cooperative Meeting

LOW POLY-TUNNEL TRIAL UPDATE

This winter I started a season extension demonstration trial. I built, what I termed a low-poly-tunnel constructed out of 1/2"pvc water pipe and 4 mil 10'x100' poly sheeting. With this low poly-tunnel, one can see the many advantages of early (and late) season production. This winter and early spring is the beginning of a long term trial and demonstration that will be run also in the late fall through the following winter.
Due to early seeding of transplants and the late start of building because of the snow storm of late January, the plants used, were not of the best quality for transplanting. By the time they were set out, 2/16, the weather had already begun to warm. A complete list of construction materials and costs follow.
An added part of the trial was to evaluate the warmth of the soil in the growing bed under the tunnel. We all know that the air inside of the tunnel will get quite warm, even hot when the sun is shining, even in the winter. But the most important part of the system is the temperature of the soil around the root zone. If this temperature is not suitable for the roots to grow, the plant will not grow.
A thermometer was placed in the soil at a depth of 6" ( the thermometer was covered with a white reflective cover so as not to be heated by the direct sun and alter the readings). Readings were made on a regular basis of every three to five days.
Since warming the soil is important, I covered half of the bed I used with clear plastic right on the soil. I cut 6" square holes in the plastic and planted the same type of plants in this treatment as I did on the bare soil on the other half of the poly-tunnel bed. Knowing that clear plastic warms the soil more than just bare soil, I was interested in observing the comparisons between treatments. A thermometer was set into the soil under the plastic and readings made at the same time as with the other thermometer.

Low Poly-Tunnel Construction

Materials List Total
1 roll 10'x100' poly sheeting mil $15 $ 15.00
(should use 6 mil for added durability $19)
20 1/2" x 10' pvc piping for hoops $1.05 ea $ 21.00
10 1"x2" spruce strips 12' long $2.25 $ 22.50
box of 1 5/8" wood screw $3 $ 3.00
Total Costs $ 61.50

Low Poly-Tunnel Construction

If using the full 100' length of poly sheeting, remember that the short ends of the tunnel will need to be covered. Allow for about 5' of poly length to accomplish covering each side. So by using a total of 10' for the ends, the max length of the tunnel can only be 90'.
Trench the long side of the bed. This is where the long edge of the poly will be buried. Lay about 6-8" of the poly here and back fill with the soil. The trench only needs to be about 8-12" deep 02 and only a few inches wide.
Use a piece of pipe or wooden stake and a hammer to make the hole where each end of the pvc pipes will go in. On a 4' wide bed, the holes must be at least a foot and a half deep or deeper. This is because you are using 10'wide poly sheeting, burying on edge, covering between 7-7.5' of pvc hoop piping, and then attaching the other long edge wrapped around the spruce boards.
Space the hoops every 5-8 feet (depending on the length of the low poly-tunnel you are building). Once all the hoops are in place, stretch the poly sheeting over the hoops. Take one length of spruce 1 x 2 " board and cut into 6-8" pieces. Take a length of board and roll up on the edge of the poly sheeting until the poly is tight and the edge is at the base of the hoops on the ground. For each end of the long board, take one of the short board pieces and attach to the board using 2 screws. this will help lock the poly in place and the overall weight of the boards will reduce the flapping in the wind. Still, extra weight might be needed such as bricks or logs. Place these along on top of the boards as needed.
I found that the length of the poly tunnel can be aerodynamic in the wind. If wind persists to be a problem, then use extra pvc hoops placed over where the interior hoops are located. The kind of acts as a lock. Place one over every other hoop and it should do the trick. The plants grown were:
cauliflower - Snow Crown
broccoli - Packman
cabbage - Primax
Napa cabbage - Blues
lettuce - Diamond Gem bibb
lettuce - Italian Red Perella
oriental greens - Hon Tsai Tai, Vitamin Greens, Autumn Poem
potato - Norland Red (planted 2/28 after green sprouting).
Regular spacing was followed and fertilization accomplished through N from a previous cover crop of soybeans as well as weekly applications of liquid kelp and fish emulsion.
The temperature differences are shown on the chart.
Watering was done by hand. This was adequate until the plants grown on the clear plastic really leafed out. Then hand watering with a watering can became difficult because the leaves would deflect some of the water away from the hole cut in the plastic. The ideal way of overcoming this problem would have been to have a trickle irrigation line set up from a buried water line. As a result of not having sufficient water, the oriental greens bolted very early, and the lettuce matured before achieving full size on the plastic. Lettuce grown on the bare soil part of the bed, grew to full size.
The broccoli grown on the clear plastic produced heads 14 days before the broccoli grown on the bare soil half of the low poly-tunnel. The cauliflower also was ahead by 12-15 days. The cabbages on the plastic were heading up several weeks earlier. The Napa cabbages all headed up to an extremely large size 15 days earlier. The Norland Red potatoes sprouted out of the ground 22 days before potatoes planted outside in another bed. Within two weeks of sprouting from under the clear plastic, the potato plants were well over a foot tall. Now the plants are about 16" tall and over a foot wide. The potato plants outside are 8" tall and about 6" wide. The outside plants also were hit by a late freeze three weeks ago.
The insect damage on the plants grown on the bare soil was also greater. Within 48 hours of setting out the transplants in February, slug damage appeared on the Napa cabbages and oriental greens. By mid March, flea beetle damage was also evident. The plants on the clear plastic did not show any insect damage. while the bed remained covered ( flea beetle damage did show up after the poly tunnel was left uncovered due to outside air temperatures staying above 45 degree night temperatures and sunny day temperatures above 60 degrees).
Ventilation of the poly-tunnel is critical. A bright sunny day with air temperature of the mid 50 degree range will mean an inside of the poly-tunnel in the high 80-90 degree range. This is too hot for these plants. So during the day, the tunnels are uncovered. Early on, if the night temperature was to get into the 30's-low 40's, the tunnel was covered. By late March to early April, the poly- tunnel was left open all night as well.
Another small part of the trial was to direct seed some vegetable greens in the bare soil part of the low poly-tunnel. On 2/17 rows of oriental greens, curly cress, arugula, mache, mizuna, 7 varieties of spinach, and an Italian chicory mix were all seeded. On average, germination took 12- 16 days. By the end of March, baby greens were quite ready to be harvested and by April 15, full size spinach, arugula, mizuna, oriental greens, and cress were harvested. Only the mache did not grow very well.
What does this all mean: A low poly-tunnel is an inexpensive tool at your disposal for starting off the season early. With many of the farmers markets opening the first week of April and Carrboro starting off Saturdays in mid March, getting an early jump on some of the cole crops could be profitable. Nice sized broccoli and cauliflower heads can fetch a great price early on before the real spring time heat sets in. The tunnels can produce new potatoes by mid to late April. An early spring salad mix will also be unique when the markets open.
To really show how well this season extension tool can work, running it from the late fall-early winter through early spring will have to be tried. I believe getting some of the cole crops transplanted in the late summer so as to be harvested in the fall, then covering over some of the smaller plants, then transplanting more in the late fall, will really provide a quick harvest by mid to late March or even earlier. Fall seed spinach under this cover, maybe dwarf peas, lettuces, chard and leaf beet, and many other greens could all be tried.
I have set out some short season determinate tomatoes under the tunnel on the clear plastic. Now they are covered with a row cover fabric. The growth is looking good (though they were planted too late to really take advantage of the trial. I believe that the soil temperature was warm enough back in mid March to start them...maybe next season!!!).

SPINACH TRIAL

Eight varieties of spinach were direct seeded into a prepared bed on 2/17. The bed was covered by poly over hoops. The spinach took about 9 days for all varieties to germinate. Baby spinach harvest started after 24 days (about 3/20). Mature spinach was harvested about 40 days after germination (4/5). The trials will be repeated with a fall/early winter seeding and the results compared. The varieties were:
Space (F1)
Italian Summer Savory
Low Acid
Steadfast
Tyee (F1)
Dutch Wolter
Italian Summer
Indian Summer (F1)

The results were as follows:
1) Space (F1) - Large flat spoon shaped leaves. The plant was compact. The smooth leaf shape made for easier cleaning after harvest. The germination rate was excellent. A late freeze yellowed the edges of older leaves slightly. Good plant for baby spinach and remained productive after outer leaves were harvested.
2) Italian Summer Savory - Slightly larger plant than Space. Much more wrinkled leaf. Germination rate was fine. More freeze damage to outer most leaves than Space. Good harvest and regrowth.,br>
3) Low Acid - A sweet tasting spinach that is supposed to have less oxalic acid in the leaves as well as reported to have high levels of vitamins A, C, and E. Rounded leaf with wrinkles. Germination rate was fair. Better tolerance of freezing weather. good to harvest as baby spinach and still productive after outer leaf harvest.
4) Steadfast - This variety had fair germination, with medium sized leaf with some wrinkling, not as much as Italian Summer Savory. Most resistant to an unidentified insect that fed on leaves of the other varieties early on.
5) Tyee (F1) - Quickest to germinate. Taller plant with moderately wrinkled leaf. Leaf size was average. Plants easy to harvest but quickest to bolt once heat came on. Good flavor.
6) Dutch Wolter - This variety had a paler leaf color than all the rest. Leaves were large and spade shaped and not as wrinkled. Good germination rate. Took some damage from freezing. Good harvestability and regrowth.
7) Italian Summer - Wondered if this variety from a different source of the Italian Summer Savory (ISS) was actually any different. The leaf size was smaller than ISS. The leaves were not as wrinkled and suffered little freeze damage. Harvest was good and regrowth was moderate.
8) Indian Summer (F1) For a hybrid, the plants were the smallest of all varieties tested. It also was fed upon more by leaf eating insect. No freeze damage to speak of. Harvest was fair for mature plant but better as baby spinach.

Seed Sources
Bountiful Gardens Seeds 18001 Shafer Ranch Rd. Willits, CA 95490 #3

Johnny's Selected Seeds Foss Hill Rd. Albion, ME 04910
#1, 5, 8

Shepherd's Garden Seeds 30 Irene St. Torrington, CT 06790
#2, 6, 7

Territorial Seed Co. PO Box Cottage Grove, Oregon 97424
#4

FULL YEAR VEGETABLE GREENS TRIAL STARTED

Salad mixes for direct marketing, specialty grocery, and the restaurant trade are very important for farmers in this area. I have started a year long trial looking at the many types of vegetable greens that can possibly be grown here for a number of uses. Many of these, of course, maybe quite common to some of our more experienced growers. However, I am sure that a fair number of the greens that I will trial will be quite foreign. The greens will be evaluated on how well they do for a particular time of year, spring, summer, fall, and winter. Some seed catalogs claim that some greens can do well in the heat of the summer while others are strictly suited for spring or fall. How many of the cold hardy greens are truly cold hardy? Evaluations will also be made on insect and disease tolerance, growth habit, harvesting (baby type or cut-and-come-again), and most of all, taste!
The Greens Trial also crosses the line for the Ethnic Vegetable Trial that I am also running (more on this later). Many ethnic vegetables are in fact, greens and these will be evaluated under both categories. As each segment of the trial concludes, I will write up the results in the newsletter. I hope to also combine the entire trial, complete with pictures into a publication available for the cost of printing to you in late winter. Stay tuned!
I have trialed several varieties of greens over this winter. This is not the complete trial since I have come across many more varieties in the new catalogs this year. I will run the winter series again in its complete form. But for now, here are some of those results.
Claytonia (miner's lettuce) - A somewhat succulent plant that definitely prefers the cool temperatures. I direct seeded this into a fine seed bed and protected it from the worst weather with a sheet of poly. Plants sort of grow in a rosette fashion. The leaves are round with stems entering the leaf in the center. Leaves are about 1-1.5" in diameter. The taste is like lettuce. Plants are productive for continued harvesting of leaves. Have not seen any disease or insect damage. Only a light fertilization of fish emulsion got these plants going. By mid-April they start to flower with a chickweed-like flower emerging from the center of each leaf. Even at this point, the flavor is tasty and the combination of leaf and flower makes for an interesting addition to a salad.
Minutina - This is a relative of the garden weed, plantain. However, its grass-like appearance after germination doesn't give any indication of its family's background (not until flowering). It will grow up to be about 8-10" tall with each leaf stalk starting to flare out a bit as it gets tall. The leaf stalk will also get a few serrations near the top of the leaf. The color is very dark green and the texture is crispy. Flavor is mild and not very provocative in its own right. However it does lend itself well to a salad mix and its shape, color, and texture will make an interesting addition to a mix.
Nordic IV Dutch Spinach - This winter hardy spinach produced some fine baby spinach. It has round spoon shaped leaves, not wrinkled so cleaning was easy. Started picking leaves of this variety in January before the snow and again after the snows melted away.
Good King Henry - This is a perennial. It produces large and abundant triangular shaped leaves in the second year. The first year of growth is slow and uneventful. In a protected corner of the garden or under a cover, this is great pot herb. The taste is between a sweet lettuce and spinach. Doesn't seem bothered by diseases or insects. Likes good compost. Being a perennial, planning about planting must be taken into account. Getting a continuous supply of young plants going as well as having a permanent spot set aside for its production must be taken into account.
Chervil - The taste of anise lends itself to any salad, especially a winter mix. The fine delicate leaves of chervil is in sharp contrast to the cooler conditions this plant likes. It does much better as a fall plant, it prefers partial shade than full sun. It hates the hot summers. Offering it protection from the deep freeze will keep chervil going through the winter. Slow to germinate from seed, have plenty of this on hand when planning to create a winter salad mix.
Parsley - A plant for all seasons really. I have grown the curly and broad leaf Italian. both types have wintered over well and produced a large supply of leaves as often as I needed to pick. It needed protection during the most coldest of nights but survived this easily. Parsley is used for so many recipes, that it is great sold as a bunch or in a salad mix. Can be bothered by the parsley worm.
Winter Savory - Another herb that looks rather dull but packs a great deal of flavor. A spicy peppery flavor like oregano. It over winters here and will put on quick growth with a little protection from the coldest nights.
Winter Density, Black Seeded Simpson, and several other Lettuce varieties - Lettuce can survive temperatures in the mid to low 20's here with only a small amount of protection. With a little more effort, these cool season varieties can actually put on some growth despite the cold nights if the soil temperature is moderated. Just ask Joe Kramer about his "Millennium Mix" that was planted in the last century!
Arugula - Direct seeded and protect from extreme cold, arugula germinates quickly and takes advantage of our sunny winter days and puts on some growth. This spicy leafy green is an acquired taste for some. It does blend in well for salads.
More winter greens will be trialed in the coming year.
Spring Greens:
Some of the leafy greens being trialed are:
Several chard varieties, Mache, Mizuna, Mibuna, Komatsuna, Chinese Kale, Mustard Spinach, Red Giant Mustard, Spinach Beet, Bull's Blood Beet, curly cress, wrinkled cress, broadleaf cress, upland cress, Vitamin Greens, Tatsoi, Cutting Celery, Par-Cel, 8 kale varieties, 3 broccoli raab varieties, Hon Tsai Tai, Perilla, Autumn Poem greens, Misuba, strawberry spinach, orach, all sorts of lettuce, escarole, numerous chicories, nasturtiums, arugula, Chop Suey Greens, Yakima Savoy Greens, pea shoots and tendrils, sorrel, and others.
As the transplants are set out, evaluations will be made and data collected over the course of weeks. Photos will be taken for a publication. Cultural practices will be monitored and tasting these will also be included. FARMING 2000 & BEYOND Workshop Series for June 19 will focus on the Spring Greens Trial and the Ethnic Vegetable Trials. The trials are being held at the CCCC Land Lab in Pittsboro.

ETHNIC VEGETABLE TRIALS

In my continuing attempt to address the needs of farmers, especially in the area of marketing. Questions that need to be asked are what is to be marketed and who is it going to be marketed to. Demographics is one tool that can be used in identifying target market groups. In the Cary, Durham, Chapel Hill, Carrboro, Greensboro areas, ethnic populations are growing. Because of the universities and the Research Triangle, the populations of the Indian, Pakistani, and Oriental communities are increasing rapidly. The buying power of these groups is also substantial. The other area of ethnic population increases is in the diverse communities of the Hispanics. Greensboro, Raleigh, Siler City, and Sanford are just some of the areas where the Hispanic communities are growing.
All of these groups have one thing in common. That is, they like to cook food and dishes that they are accustomed to. These dishes require fresh vegetables for the best results. They can either search out specialty shops, buy expensive canned products, or can buy from local farmers who have selectively expanded their vegetable offerings to meet the needs of this special clientele.
I will be conducting an evaluation of selected oriental, Indian-Asian, and Hispanic associated vegetables. Vegetable types include tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, gourds, beans, squash, brassicas, greens, and eggplants.
One of the keys to marketing to an ethnic clientele, is to be able to label your produce with the names that these customers can identify with. many common vegetables to us, may be common to them as well but they recognize it by another name. If you are going to advertise to a specific ethnic group and market your produce in a way to build up a loyal customer base, you need to be aware of the correct names to call the vegetables.
As these trials get underway, I will be spending a great deal of time on the proper nomenclature.

COVER CROP DEMONSTRATION PLANNED

I will be setting up a cover crop demonstration with the cooperation from the Sustainable Farming Program of CCCC. We will set up plots with summer and then later with fall/winter cover crops. Different varieties and combination of mixes will be looked at. The purpose of the demonstration is to have a living educational tool available for farmers and students alike. Promoting the use of cover crops has many advantages. Cover crops restrict erosion, adds organic matter to the soil, provides a base for biological activity in the soil, adds to the fertility of the soil, increases aeration and water holding capacity, can suppress weeds, offers animal forage, offers habitat for beneficial organisms and much more.
We hope to have the first summer cover crops planted by the end of May - early June.

FEARRINGTON VILLAGE FARMERS MARKET TO CELEBRATE 10th ANNIVERSARY

Tuesday, May 2 will be the 10th anniversary of the opening of the Fearrington Farmers Market. There will be a celebration when the market opens at 4pm on Tuesday May 2. According to the Market Association's president, Cathy Jones of Perry-winkle Farms, there will be cake and all are invited. to celebrate this milestone!

CHATHAM CO. COOPERATIVE EXTENSION FARMERS MARKET WEB PAGE

The Chatham Co. Cooperative Extension has a home page (http://chatham.ces.state.nc.us) that has added a couple of new sections. One of those sections is the Farmers Market web page. This lists participants in the Pittsboro and Fearrington Farmers Market who have wished to be listed. The page is just about finished and should be up by the first week in May.
The goal of having this information on the web is two fold. One reason is so that farmers can get more exposure for their markets. The second is for consumers who are becoming more computer and internet savvy. These people are interested in shopping at the markets but maybe shopping for a specific item or just want some added information about farmers and what they sell. By reviewing this web page, they will be able to put a face to agriculture.
By adding photos of farmers at the markets with their products, shoppers will really begin to associate faces with names. We hope this will bring added opportunity for our growers and producers. The computer age is suppose to be booming. We want to be ready and pass the benefits on to our community. If you are interested in getting listed, let us know. A form is available from Robert Hadad that has a few questions you would need to fill out to get on this site. For folks who already have a home web page, we will be happy to tie it in with a link.

FARMING 2000 & BEYOND WORKSHOPS: MAY 15 - NON-CHEMICAL WEED CONTROL

The next workshop topic will be on non-chemical weed control methods. Focus will be on practices that can be used by small farmers to manage weeds in their fields. David Monks, NCSU, Horticultural Weed Extension Specialist will talk on weed control practices for vegetables and small fruit including greater emphasis on cultivation options. Nancy Creamer, NCSU Organic Crops Specialist, will discuss the use of cover crops and rotations to manage weeds on the farm. Included in the program will be a talk on flame weeding with a demonstration of a backpack model. Debbie Roos, Lee Co. Extension will discuss non-chemical options.
The workshop will be held at the Lee Co. Extension Center, 225 S. Steele St. Sanford, NC from 4-6:30pm. Directions: from RT 15-501-87, head south. Follow highway into Sanford. Highway 15- 501 will merge with RT 1 but continue straight (this becomes Hawkins Ave., follow Hawkins until it ends in the center of town. It will come to a "T" and the cross road is Carthage St. Take a right on Carthage. Go through traffic light at railroad tracks. One block from here is 2nd set of traffic lights. This is Steele St. Take a left on Steele. Go one more block to traffic lights. Go straight through lights and the Lee Co. Extension Center will be about 200 yards on the left. Parking is on both sides of the street in front of the building.
For more info, contact Robert Hadad 919-542-8202 or Debbie Roos, Lee Co Extension 919-775- 5624 or check out our FARMING 2000 & BEYOND web page: http://chatham.ces.state.nc.us/staff/rhadad/Series.html

RAISING TOMATOES

Tomatoes (Solonaceae) nightshade family,
Lycopersicon lycopersicum
Tomatoes for fresh market sales have been most profitable when planted early and given protection for the very early market or when planted for a late fall crop and harvested just before frost. Transplanting for the spring crop should be done when the soil has had time to warm, about late April. For the fall crop, transplants should be put in by July 15.
Tomatoes do well when grown after a winter legume or fescue cover crop. The cover crop needs to be tilled under at least 6-8 weeks prior to setting out transplants. Tomatoes should be part of a thorough rotation schedule that does not include any solonaceous crop for at least 3 years.
Stocky transplants grown in peat pots or soil blocks are desirable for transplanting to a field. Bare-rooted plants can be used but transplant seem to yield better. Three inch pots or bigger tend to produce higher early yields than smaller containers. The earlier yields tend to demand higher prices.
Plant approximately 5000 plants/A. Space plants in rows 6ft apart with plants 18-22 inches apart in the row. The simplest trellis method consists of stakes or small posts spaced at frequent intervals in the row with tightly stretched twine running horizontally alongside the plants. A satisfactory trellis may be constructed of stakes 1 inch by 1 inch by 5ft driven 10-12 inches deep into the soil midway in he space after every second plant (approx. 2500 stakes/A). A simple hand- driving tool consists of a 36 inch length of 21/2 inch galvanized pipe with a cap screwed or welded on one end. Slide the pipe over the stake, striking down repeatedly with force.
The first string should be about 10 inches above the soil and should be strung when the plants are 12-15 inches high, before the plants fall over. Loop the string around each stake all the way down the row. It is important to keep the twine tight. Proceed to the end of the row and return on the opposite side passing the string along the other side of the plants, again looping each side of the stake. The first stringing should be crossed between plants. Subsequent strings should be put up as the plants grow so as to maintain a well-trained system. Three to four stringings are desirable, each about 6-10 inches higher than the preceding one.
Pruning will help maintain the desired balance between vegetativeness and fruitfulness. Little or no pruning results in more vine growth with a heavy load of smaller fruit. Moderate pruning results in a smaller vine and larger fruit which mature earlier. Remove all suckers up to the one immediately below the first flower cluster. Leave the lateral shoot to form a fork just below the first fruit hand. A single pruning when basal suckers are no longer than 3-4 inches will usually be adequate.
Transplants should be fed a starter fertilizer at the time of transplanting. A fertilizer that is high in phosphorus is desirable.
Research farm studies have shown that growing tomatoes on 6-8 inch raised beds, with trickle irrigation, covered in black plastic can be highly profitable. The black plastic gets the soil warmed early and greatly reduces weed competition. The raised beds allow for good drainage in wet years and keeps the soil warmer in cool springs. The soil also is not compacted and remains friable. The irrigation lines allows for a more economically controlled application of water. Liquid fertilizer could be administered through additional pumping apparatus connected to the irrigation lines. Remember to remove plastic at the end of the season. In place of black plastic, a move is underway to transplant tomatoes into dead or living mulch system. This type of no-till production has advantages and disadvantages. the biggest advantage is that the system is far more sustainable. The major disadvantage is that the soil remains cooler due to presence of the organic mulch.
If the early market is not what your after then the raised beds with trickle irrigation still offers optimum advantages but the black plastic can be replaced with a seed-free straw or compost mulch or the tomatoes could be grown in the mowed stubble from a living mulch of hairy vetch.

Fertilizer

Apply lime as needed to achieve a pH of 6.5-6.8. It is very important to have sufficient supplies of lime for tomatoes and enough water through the season. Blossom end rot is caused by deficiencies of calcium, both from lack of the mineral or from the lack of water which ties up the mineral availability. Apply about 30lbs. of actual N/A before transplanting regardless of irrigation system used.
When plastic is used with drip irrigation or for just irrigation lines with mulch, fertilizing through the lines is possible and practical. Again, be sure there is more than enough lime present in the soil to adequately meet the calcium demand of the plants. Sources of liquid organic fertilizer can range from specialty items in many catalogs. The more common types are fish emulsions, kelp extracts, and powders. When using these or any product, be sure to have a filtering system in line for your drip irrigation system.
Tomatoes: Fertilizer Recommended Based on Soil Test Results:
Phosphorus
Soil Test Reading Lb Phosphorus (P2O3)/Acre
Low <30lb/A 240-360
Med 31-60lb/A 180-240
High 60-80lb/A 60-180
V. High > 80lb/A 60
Potassium
Soil Test Reading Lb Potassium (K2O)/Acre
Low < 200lb/A 250-350
Med 201-300lb/A 200-250
High 301-450lb/A 150-200
V. High >450lb/A 150
(>=greater than,<=less than)

Nitrogen: When tomatoes follow a grass-legume or legume sod rotational cover crop, use 30lbs of actual N/A. If tomatoes follow a grass sod, use 50lbs actual N/a. If tomatoes are following a continually cropped land, use 60lbs N/A. Apply an additional application of 30lbs. of actual N/A as a side dressing when the first fruit cluster has fruit the size of golf balls. A second side dress application of 30lbs N may also be desirable 2-3 weeks later depending on the crop's condition.

The following is a fertigation schedule that begins on the first week of transplanting. A ratio of 1:2 of N to K is used for this schedule.
To calculate pounds per acre needed, multiply grams shown per plant times the number of plants and divide by 454 ( 454 grams=1 lb). Here is an example: if 0.28 grams of N per plant is to be needed for the first week of fertigation and the N source (fish emulsion) that is being used has 5% N, and there are 1000 plants, then how much fish emulsion will be needed to apply to each plant to have 0.28 grams of N. 1000 plants x 0.28 grams = 280 grams N needed. Since fish emulsion being used has 5% N, divide 100 by 5, then multiply by 280 which = 5600 grams of fish emulsion needed to supply 280 grams of N for 1000 plants in the first week. Divide 5600 by 454 = 12.33 lbs of fish emulsion (if using a powdered N source). When using organic liquid fertilizers in a fertigation system, care must be given to sufficiently filter the liquids in order to prevent clogging of the system.

Fertigation Weekly Schedule
Week N lb/acre K20 lb/acre
1 0.5 0.5
2 0.5 0.5
3 0.7 0.7
4 0.7 1.4
5 1.00 2.00
6 1.00 2.00
7 1.2 2.4
8 1.5 3.0
9 2.0 4.0
10 2.5 5.0
11 2.5 5.0
12 3.0 6.0
13 3.0 6.0

Harvest

Tomatoes are easily damaged and should be picked and handled as carefully as possible in grading, packing, and hauling to the market destination. Tomatoes should be grasped in the hand with the thumb and forefinger pressing against the stem, forcing the stem from the tomato. Tomato fruit that are to be shipped several miles are usually harvested when 10-30% of the surface shows a definite change in color to tannish yellow, pink, red, or a combination. Tomatoes for local sales should be harvested with much more color.
Tomatoes are usually packed in 10, 20, and 25lb cardboard cartons. Pack as tightly as possible without bruising. The Agricultural Marketing Service of the United States Department of Agriculture has established standards for grades of tomatoes. A description of standards is available by writing the above mentioned organization, Washington, D.C.
When marketing, individuals should evaluate their own opportunities. Roadside stands, C.S.A.'s, U-pick, local markets, or farmers markets are some of the options available to the grower. The market for the crop should be determined before the crop is planted..

Post Harvest

Mature green tomatoes should be stored at 550F-700F with 85-90% humidity. Firm, ripe fruit should be stored at 45-500F with 85-90% humidity.

Insects
Aphids can be managed with sticky yellow traps or insecticidal soap sprays.
Beet armyworm appears sporadically in KY. The moth is blown in from the cotton belt of the South. Voracious eaters, the most effective treatment is to use a neem product when the larvae is young. This insect is tolerant to most insecticides.
Colorado Potato beetle can be treated with Bt strain (san diego).
Flea beetle can be damaging, particularly to small plants early in the season. Row covers for smaller plantings can be used to exclude pests until the plants are larger. Prevention may be the best practice in reducing the initial populations. Eliminate weedy boundaries around fields early before adult insects emerge. Treat if an average of 1 larva, adult, or egg mass per plant is found and plants are less than 12" tall.
Cutworms can be managed by eliminating weedy areas. Early spring tillage can cut down populations by exposing them to the surface and disturbing their food source and egg laying sites.
Fruitworms and hornworms can be treated with Bt products. Carefully monitor plants for eggs on undersides of leaves, often near flower clusters. Treat if an average of more than one egg or larvae/ 40 plants is found.
Leafminer with a large infestation can be damaging to leaves. Lacewings, Eulophidae are good biological control insects. Also, plant a beneficial insect habitat near to where tomatoes are to be grown. This will attract parasitic wasps to the area. By having the wasps in the area ahead of tomatoes, prevention may already be underway.
Mites can be reduced with sulfur if the weather is not too hot and humid. Repeated sprays of insecticidal soap can reduce populations. For large plantings, predacious mites can be introduced to aid in the control.
Pinworms periodically turn up as a problem. Moths of this worm are active toward evening. Lacewings, flower bugs, and predatory mites ca reduce populations.
Stinkbugs are preyed upon by Trichogramma wasps,Pteromalidae, flower bugs, lacewings and others. Having a beneficial habitat for biological control insects is essential for maintaining the diversity needed to manage the multitudes of pests.
Thrips are nasty and can be sprayed with insecticidal soap or oil.
Whiteflies are managed by insecticidal soap sprays or through yellow sticky traps.

Diseases
General

These disease controls have been written with a range of commercial producers in mind. However, they focus on staked tomato production where a high level of management is critical to timely production, quality and high yields. Control of foliar and stem diseases will require frequent sprays of foliar fungicides most of the season using a high-pressure sprayer (200-400 psi) delivering enough spray mixtures to thoroughly cover the foliage (50 gallons early in the season and increasing to 150 gallons per acre when the plants are large). A boom-type sprayer is probably best, but successful applications can be made with mist blower-types. In addition to fungicide sprays, start with disease-free transplants, plant away from potatoes and tobacco, and use sites rotated away from solanaceous crops to grasses (fescue, small grains, or corn). If rotated sites cannot be used, consider using preplant soil fumigation, especially if nematodes or Verticillium wilt are present. Bacterial diseases are becoming increasingly important in the US, so study carefully the bacterial diseases listed below.
Anthracnose (ripe rot) Control of anthracnose is especially important for processing tomatoes because quality standards include mold counts. It occurs mainly as a sunken circular spot of ripe fruits with the sporulating fungus appearing as a dark mass in the center of the lesion. It is particularly troublesome on fruit that is overripe and in contact with the soil. Although infections can occur early (when the fruit is green and small), this is primarily a disease of ripe fruit so avoid over-mature fruit, especially after Ethrel application (or other fruit ripening agents) when susceptibility increases rapidly. A two to four year rotation to crops not related to tomatoes with good weed control during the rotation will prevent pathogen buildup. Some processing tomatoes with tolerance to anthracnose fruit rot are US68, Hybrid 219, Hypeel 696, Early Pear, O-8245, Heinz 7151, O-7983, LaRosa, Peto 2196, S012 and OX4.
Bacterial canker This is an increasingly important disease in Kentucky which can cause serious losses during cool summers and in fall crops. It occurs in many forms as a fruit spot, leaf blight, stem canker, or vascular wilt, depending on whether the pathogen is localized or systemic. Under hot and humid weather conditions, the bacterium becomes established on the foliage of healthy plants and invades the plant through wounds and natural openings. Prevention -not cure- is the only acceptable strategy for control. Prevent introduction into your crop; prevent over-wintering in the field and slow buildup of the pathogen on the plant. The canker pathogen is seed and transplant-borne; it overwinters on tomato debris (on roots and large stems) plus stakes and other field and greenhouse items. Once present, the bacterium is easily spread during wet conditions by splashing rain, irrigation water, machinery, and workers. All items contacting tomatoes should be sanitized with a 10% bleach solution to reduce introduction.
Take steps to start with disease-free material! Use disease-free seed, but assume in today's marketplace that the seed may be infested, so also use proper seed treatments for bacterial diseases (see seed treatments section below). Use certified disease free transplants. In seed beds spray on a 5 day schedule with Streptomycin (Agrimycin) (see label recommendations) starting with first true leaf until transplanting is complete, but do not use streptomycin on the plants after transplanting to the field. In fresh market operations, plants detected with canker in the field should be carefully rogued out, avoided, or at minimum worked last. The canker pathogen is easily spread during pruning and staking operations, and less disease develops in fields where suckers are removed when very small and those not pruned at all. Avoid working in fields while foliage is wet, especially early in the season. Some observations strongly suggest that air- blast-type sprays enhance spread by creating airborne mist. Sticks should be fumigated or dipped in a 10% chlorine bleach solution before reusing. Rotating to non-host crops for 3 to 4 years is highly effective in reducing the pathogen at site, but there are many hosts, including tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, eggplant, and solanaceous weeds such as black nightshade. Preliminary evidence suggests tobacco is a symptomless host. At the end of the crop, burning or properly composting the above-ground residue can reduce the pathogen; the field should be plowed such that all residue is turned under the soil.
In staked tomatoes, spraying on a weekly schedule starting immediately after transplanting with copper may be helpful at reducing buildup of the pathogen and spread. However, early copper sprays on processing tomatoes have generally been ineffective in controlling bacterial canker early, but its use for other bacterial diseases may also slow spread of the foliar phases of canker.
Bacterial speck and bacterial spot Bacterial Spot mainly occurs on the foliage as dark, angular spotting with yellow halos and scabby lesions of the fruit. Bacterial Speck causes similar spots on the foliage but black specks on the fruit. Spot is favored by warm wet weather while bacterial speck is more likely in cool wet conditions. The incidence and severity of spot and speck have markedly increased recently, probably due to the production of hybrid seed in tropical climates. Use western-grown seed, certified as disease-free, plus assume they are contaminated and use a hot-water or bleach seed treatment. Use streptomycin sprays in seed beds. NOTE: STREPTOMYCIN IS LABELED ONLY FOR THE PLANT BEDS/SEEDLINGS; IT IS NOT SPECIFICALLY REGISTERED FOR USE IN THE GREENHOUSE AND THE LABEL SPECIFICALLY PROHIBITS USE AFTER TRANSPLANTING. Transplant only disease-free seedlings into rotated land. These bacterial diseases can 'explode' under protracted wet conditions due to very rapid reproduction of the bacteria. Keep bacterial numbers down by including a fixed copper material in the spray program once first symptoms are present or advisories are issued.
Blossom end rot This is not an infectious disease, rather a physiological disorder related to calcium movement or calcium deficiency, promoted by variances in water availability and growth flushes. Blossom end rot is aggravated by improper fertility programs (e.g. high levels of ammonium nitrogen or high levels of potassium). Steps should be taken to insure adequate calcium levels are in the soil Mulching of tomatoes reduces it. Maintain uniform soil moisture. Avoid sudden injury to healthy roots by avoiding sites subject to standing water/flooding; avoid close cultivation. Calcium sprays are not considered effective in reducing blossom end rot in field plantings.
Buckeye rot and Pythium rot Buckeye rot occurs as circular, zonate lesions on the fruits while Pythium causes a water rot of the fruit. In stake tomatoes, these areproblems mainly on the lower fruits which receive soil splash. Both cause dark watery rots of the stem near the soil line, mainly of young plants. Avoid fields with poor drainage or heavy soils. Plant on raised beds with mulch to reduce surface moisture and stake to reduce contact with soil. Avoiding tobacco and crops related to tomatoes in the rotation will help with Buckeye Rot.
Seed treatments for Damping off etc. To control seedborne bacteria and fungi, use hot-water treatment: Soak seed at 122ø to 133øF for 25 min [Seed lots and varieties differ in the temperature they can tolerate so conduct a small test first, then proceed at as high a temperature within this range as the seed will tolerate.] or household-bleach treatment (dip seed for 1 minute in a solution containing 1 qt household bleach/ 4qts of water plus 1/2 teaspoon of surfactant while agitating, followed by washing seed in running water) followed by drying seed.
Early Blight, Gray Leaf Mold, Gray Leafspot, Botrytis Gray Mold, Septoria Leaf Spot/Blight These foliar diseases can start with seedlings, but in the field they have the following symptoms: Early blight is the most common foliage disease in Kentucky and mainly affects older foliage causing dark brown, target-like spots and general blighting of the foliage, stem cankers, and fruit rots. Septoria Leaf Spot/Blight occurs frequently and dominates in some seasons, as small gray/tan spots with dark borders, usually with dark fruiting bodies of the fungus evident in the center of each spot. Gray Leafspot is caused by Stemphylium and is often found on transplants upon arrival from southern areas and/or from hot, humid greenhouses. Spots are irregular in shape, brown with extensive yellowing. In the field, it has been mainly a problem with late crops. Gray Leaf Mold is caused by Cladosporium and is more common in the greenhouse than field, but can be severe under low light situations in the field, occurring as a yellow spot on the foliage with gray fungus on the bottom side of the leaf. Botrytis gray mold occurs mainly as a rot of the leaf and fruit under prolonged cool, wet conditions.
Control starts with disease-free transplants. A sound foliar fungicide program is a must for control of these diseases during wet years with current varieties and economics of the crop. Varieties with some resistance or tolerance will reduce fungicide needs, but will not eliminate fungicide needs. Presently, in general, early maturing varieties are more susceptible to early blight than are later maturing ones. Practice crop rotation away from all solanaceous crops for 2 or more years and control weeds during the rotation. are very damaging tomato disease. Start with disease free transplants. Real wet weather is a factor in the seriousness of these diseases. Use land that has been in rotations with non-related tomato crops for at least 2 years. Be sure weeds are totally controlled during rotations and from around the surrounding areas. Copper dusts can be used during wet cool periods to control disease if one absolutely has to. During dry seasons when fog or dew is not occurring, one may wait until first symptoms to start sprays, but even then sprays should be started by mid to late June for spring plantings. Fall tomatoes are very prone to early blight, especially if early tomatoes or potatoes are planted nearby. Maintain rapid growth through proper fertilization to minimize disease. Crop rotations used for other diseases are an aid.
Fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt can be avoided by using resistant plant varieties. Avoid fields where disease blight has been prevalent.
Late blight Late blight can very quickly destroy a commercial tomato crop under cool, wet weather. It causes dark, irregular spots (often worse on the youngest foliage) giving a scalded appearance to the foliage. Fruit appear as if rolled on a hot plate. Late blight appears erratically in Kentucky, most common in mountains and during fall plantings, but the disease is becoming more common due to new strains and increased levels nationally. Significant epidemics are much more likely for the future, so remain alert and keep controls in place when the threats of late blight exist. The control program listed for early blight should be adequate for most cases of late blight in Kentucky, but be sure to close the spray interval, obtain good coverage, and coppers may be used.
Nematodes can be reduced with crop rotations using tall fescue for 2 or more years. Predatory nematodes are available.
Sclerotinia stem rot and botrytis These diseases occur as girdling cankers on the main stems, usually resulting from transplanting infected plants or strikes that occur in the field during early May. Avoid transplanting infected transplants into the field. Avoid fields with a history of Sclerotinia. Spores can move into tomato fields from adjacent weedy fields or where crops such as tobacco, canola, cabbage, or beans were infected in previous season. Take steps to improve air movement in the planting. in the field can be prevented by not using infected transplants in the field. Spores can be blown in from nearby weedy areas or fields where tobacco, cabbage, or beans, which might have been infected, were grown the previous year.
Southern stem blight Plants wilt and die from girdling of the roots and stem at the soil line. The white fungus and its fruiting bodies are normally present at the soil line. Avoid fields with a history of disease on any crop where possible. The pathogen Sclerotium rolfsii has a wide host range and can colonize almost any plant material as the tissue dies. From colonized debris, it moves onto the tomato plant. Deep plowing of sods, cover crops, and crop debris to insure organic matter is well rotted and not near the surface. Preplant control of weeds and grass are very important, with some very serious cases following post-plant grass control, because the fungus eats the dead weeds and moves onto the tomato!
Viruses The viruses cause a range of conditions, including mosaic and mottling, stunting, lower fruit quality and even death. Tomato spotted wilt is a relatively new problem which is arriving mainly on infected transplants. Take steps to ensure that southern grown transplants are from sources specifically certified to be free of this virus. Greenhouse produced plants may also carry it if not produced in isolation from thrips and ornamental hosts. Several other virus diseases are common or troublesome in tomatoes: Tobacco Etch, Tobacco Mosaic, Cucumber Mosaic, Potato Virus Y, and Alfalfa Mosaic Virus being the most common. Use TMV resistant varieties and minimize contact with infected plants in the field. To avoid PVX in greenhouses, do not handle potatoes before working tomatoes. Rinsing the hands with milk (whole, dried or skim) when planting can reduce spread of these viruses. Most of these viruses are weedborne and moved from weeds to tomatoes by insects, mainly aphids. Control weeds around fields or plant into sites surrounded by small grains or corn. Do not plant adjacent tobacco, potatoes, or peppers; the farther away the better. Great reduction can be achieved with 200 yds between these crops.
Greenhouse diseases of tomatoes--Leaf Mold, Gray Mold, Early Blight A number of foliar diseases common to the field occur in the greenhouse. However, strict regulation of heat and ventilation to maintain low humidity at night and early morning will greatly reduce diseases in tomato greenhouses.
Fusarium Crown and Root Rot Sanitize the greenhouse and everything in it, by solarization or steam. Soak seed in household bleach (2 pts 5.25% sodiumhypochlorite in 8 pts water) using one gallon of mix per pound of seed, agitate continously for a 40 minute soak; air dry and plant. Some varieties with resistance, but there are several strains. Disease is worse on stressed plants.
Tobacco Mosaic Virus Use bleach treated seed. Dip hands in milk before handling plants.

GARLIC COOPERATIVE MEETING

Since our last meeting, it was left up to the participants to think over the items discussed and come back at a later date to work on details. I have done some more investigative work on varieties and sourcing of seedstock.
I think it would be a good idea for us to come together again. Items to go over would be the possible formalizing of a group or at least discuss an alternative structure for marketing. Another important point would be concerning cultural practices and getting soils ready for planting in the fall.
Some good source material for garlic growing is:
Growing Great Garlic: The Definitive guide for Organic Gardeners and Small Farmers by Ron L. Engeland
A Garlic Testament: Seasons on a Small New Mexico Farm by Stanley Crawford
The meeting should be Monday May 22 at 7pm here in the Chatham Co. Extension Ag Center in the upstairs Kitchen Lab. All interested people are encouraged to attend. Your ideas and inputs are welcome. We are open to both new and experienced growers alike to become involved. It is not the quantity you grow that is important, it is the quality and consistency we are shooting for.
Contact Robert Hadad 919-542-8202 if you are planning to attend or need details.
Thanks.
Robert Hadad
Agriculture Agent
Chatham County Cooperative Extension
PO Box 279
Pittsboro, NC 27312
For more information call 919-542-8202 ext 244.

Any mention of product brand names, companies, organizations, or points of view by individuals does not reflect on or speak for North Carolina State University, North Carolina A & T State University or North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service.

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This page was created by
Paulette Thomas
Secretary II

Date Created 5/09/00.