Subject: Fire Ants
Date: Mon, October 17, 2005

In this email look for the following: Fire Ants - ELetter

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You may have noticed fire ant mounds lately. At least some folks have. I have in fact. We are not going to eradicate fire ants and I don't suggest that you need to do anything about them except be aware. They've been in several states south of us for as long as 75 years and no one has eradicated them yet. So we learn to deal with them. It may be interesting to note that virgin queens that mate in the spring will try to establish a nest when they come to ground. In some studies, as many as 90% fail to establish because native ants defend the territory. Products used on a wide scale to control fire ants are sometimes counter-productive by controlling all ants.

If the queen establishes a nest, it may take as long as 6 months to build up the critical numbers for a mound to become obvious. Let's see, 6 months from last spring will be ... Holy Smokes, Batman! Right Now! And then after a rain, critters that live in the ground may need to clean house a bit. So if you're seeing new mounds, we're not surprised. The product you choose may depend more on what is available than on all other factors. Fortunately with good technique, it won't make a lot of difference what product you select. It's not the product doing the job; it's you. The following guidelines for controlling fire ants can also be found on our website at http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/chatham/ag/homehort/fireants.html

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW FIRST:

We will not eliminate fire ants. Select mounds and locations that are important and deal with them on a mound by mound basis. Mounds you should concentrate on include those in areas of people traffic such as parks, playgrounds, and home lawns.

To eliminate a mound you must kill the queen. She lives inside the mound.

When the mound is disturbed, the ants will remove the queen by way of tunnels underground but close to the surface. Avoid disturbing the mound.

HOW TO PROCEED:

Identify the mound. Fire ants may be recognized by the mound. Unlike most ants, fire ants live both below ground and inside the part of the mound built above ground. When disturbed, whitish rice-like larvae may be seen. Hundreds of ants may emerge.

Select one of the following treatment options:

Bait Treatment. Select a product (see http://ipm.ncsu.edu/agchem/chptr5/543.pdf or contact this office). Keep these products in an airtight, odor free container to retain their usefulness. According to directions, spoon the bait around, not on, the mound. Baits deteriorate when exposed to moisture, high temperature, or sunlight. Make application under dry conditions, late in the day. It may take several weeks for the mound to die.

OR Dry Mound Treatment. Select a granule or dust product (see http://ipm.ncsu.edu/agchem/chptr5/543.pdf or contact this office). Follow the product label to apply the product directly to the mound. Some of these products may need to be watered in. Consult the product label. Several days later, check the surrounding area for survivors starting a new mound and re-treat if necessary.

OR Drench treatment. Select a product (see http://ipm.ncsu.edu/agchem/chptr5/543.pdf

or contact this office). Before purchase make sure the product gives directions for a drench. "Kills Fire Ants" is not good enough; you must get to the queen. Mix in a garden watering can according to label directions mixing one gallon for each 6 inches of mound diameter. Thoroughly wet the ground around the mound to seal off the queen's exits. Continue to use all the material to soak the interior of the mound. Several days later, check the surrounding area for survivors starting a new mound and re-treat if necessary.

Consider the Texas Two-Step Method. Apply a bait. Wait about a week, then follow-up with an individual mound treatment - dust, granule, or drench. There is more information on the Two-Step Method at http://fireant.tamu.edu/management/twostep.html.

Other options. Treatments such as gasoline, motor oil, or grits usually cause the ants to abandon the mound and start a new one. Flooding with water is just one of the ways mounds move from one location to another.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS:

People with allergies. Persons allergic to stings should avoid fire ant treatments.

Protecting your water. Avoid use of pesticides within 50 feet of wells, abandoned wells, streams, or ponds. In these situations several gallons of boiling water may be applied to each mound. Repeat treatments may be necessary. The primary advantage of this treatment is to force the ants to move the mound.

Fruits and vegetables. Most insecticides for control of fire ants are neither safe nor legal to use in food crops. A spinosad product currently marketed as Justice does include use in these areas. It also bears the label of the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI). Boiling water may be applied to each mound. Repeat treatments may be necessary. The primary advantage of this treatment is to force the ants to move the mound.

Pastures. For a product that is safe and legal for control of fire ants in pasture, see http://ipm.ncsu.edu/agchem/chptr5/506.pdf, or contact this office.

A comprehensive list of fire ant control products was compiled by Dr. Kathy Flanders at Auburn University. It is available at: http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/fireantproductlist.pdf Not all products are legitimate for use on every site. Read and follow the label.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Contact Chatham County Center of the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, 919-542-8202. See Cooperative Extension Service publication AG-486, Red Imported Fire Ant, at http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/pubs/insects/ag486.html for additional information.

Individuals who use chemicals are responsible for ensuring that the intended use complies with current regulations and conforms to the product label. Be sure to obtain current information about usage and examine a current product label before applying any chemical. For assistance, contact an agent of the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service in your county.

  

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alcooke --


Al Cooke
Extension Agent
Horticulture
North Carolina State University
North Carolina Cooperative Extension, Chatham County Center
P.O. Box 279
Pittsboro, NC 27312
E-mail: al_cooke@ncsu.edu
Home page: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/chatham/staff/acooke/home.html
Phone: 919.542.8202 FAX: 919.542.8246