In this email look for the following: Fall Lawn Management - ELetter
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*********************************************************** During the
spring and the fall, fertilizer and seed companies routinely advertise their
strategy to take you to lawn Nirvana. I don’t pay much attention to them because
my detector has a fairly low sensitivity to marketing claims. But one thing you
should ask of any advertising about lawns is whether they are talking about
“cool-season grasses” or “warm-season grasses.” There are things you can do for
one in the spring that will harm the other and things you can do for the other
in the fall that will harm the first. Clear as mud? I guess it’s a lot easier to just spend a little money and do what the
advertisers suggest than it is to figure out what’s going on. Let’s just say
that if you fertilize cool-season grasses such as fescue in the spring and
summer, it will be more susceptible to disease. And if you “winterize” bermuda
or zoysia grass with a nitrogen fertilizer in the fall, you make it more
susceptible to cold injury. When you read the ads, you need to know which kind
of grass they are talking about. And you need to know which kind you have. Fescue grass is a cool-season grass that will thrive in our area from
approximately September to May. It does not thrive in the summer and should not
be pushed then. So, if your fescue lawn has been languishing through the summer,
it was predictable (not your fault). And September is a good time to renovate
it. Start with a soil sample. Samples submitted to Raleigh today are being
reported back in about 7 working days. That analysis will answer the question of
if you need lime and what kind of fertilizer. Rent an aerator or hire someone to aerate it with a core aerator. A core
aerator punches holes and removes plugs about the size of your finger. Most
heavy soils will benefit from the aeration, and the grass will show the results. Seeding rate for fescue on bare soil is 6 pounds of seed per thousand square
feet. More is not better. Too much seed results in too many (weak) plants
competing for the same limited resources. For renovating a thin lawn the appropriate rate may be more like 1 – 2 pounds
of seed per 1000 square feet. Some spots may require more seed than others. Seed is not a good place to save money as you can actually purchase weeds
that are all but impossible to get rid of. Look at the tag on the bag. The
combination of “weed seed” and “other crop” can total less than 1%. If noxious
weeds are listed, don’t buy it. And figure the price per pound rather than the
price per bag. Multiply pounds in the bag X % pure seed X % germination. (That’s
the most seedlings you can expect from the bag under ideal conditions. Divide
the total price by the pounds you figured. That gives you the price per pound of
live seed. Sometimes the “more expensive” bag actually turns out to be cheaper –
especially if the weed/other crop content is high. Fertilize your fescue lawn in September, at Thanksgiving, and at Valentine’s
Day. One pound of nitrogen to a thousand square feet for the first two
applications, half that much in February. If you don’t know how to calculate a
pound of nitrogen from the numbers on the bag, give me a call. Fertilizer
(whether organic or synthetic doesn’t matter) is the #1 contributor to reduced
quality of streams in Chatham County, and lawns are a big source. You are
concerned about water quality. That means you need to be concerned about how you
fertilize. If you have a warm-season lawn of bermuda, centipede, or zoysia, you may be
ready for your last application of nitrogen fertilizer. Apply no more nitrogen
after mid-September. Your next application will be after (not before) it greens
up next spring.
E Letter Archives:
I have received several questions recently about overhauling the lawn. For
fescue lawns, the optimal time is approaching. Before I go there, let me digress
into some of the marketing issues associated with lawn management.
Al Cooke
Extension Agent
Horticulture
North Carolina State University
North Carolina Cooperative Extension, Chatham County Center
P.O. Box 279
Pittsboro, NC 27312
E-mail: al_cooke@ncsu.edu
Home page:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/chatham/staff/acooke/home.html
Phone: 919.542.8202 FAX: 919.542.8246