March Activities

This Page Brought to you by
Al Cooke
Agricultural Extension Agent
Chatham County Center


Following are some garden activities that may be appropriate in Central North Carolina during the month of

March



Things to Do

The Edible Garden
Trees and Shrubs
Annuals & Perennial Flowers
Lawns
Routine Chores
Things to Watch For

The Edible Garden

Prepare the Vegetable Garden.

If you don't already have all the beds and rows ready, it will probably take more time than you expect. And it could be "too wet to plow" when the time is right. So anytime now when the soil is workable is a good time to loosen the soil and do everything to prepare for the next plantings.

Speaking of planting...

There are lots of things you can be planting this month. There's always a certain amount of risk. So pay attention to the weather. Take advantage of the warm spells. When the temperature dives again, you may want to protect tender foliage with spun-bonded fabric or a loose mulch of hay piled high. Following are some things you might consider planting now:

Vegetables

  • Asparagus
  • Beets (later in the month)
  • Broccoli (mid- to later in month)
  • Cabbage
  • Cauliflower (mid- to later in month)
  • Kale
  • Lettuce
  • Mustard
  • Onions
  • Peas (edible pod)
  • Potatoes
  • Radish
  • Rutabagas
  • Spinach
  • Swiss Chard
  • Turnips

    Fruits

  • Plant Blueberries now unless your soil is not ready. In that case, start preparing the soil now so you'll be ready next year.
  • Plant Strawberries, Blackberries, Thornless blackberries, and Muscadine grapes in late March or April.

    Finish planting fruit trees.

    Woody plants grow roots when soils are cool. If you haven't planted yet, you missed the fall opportunity and the optimal late winter opportunity is almost done. Root growth will deminish as the soil warms through the spring. That means you will have a limited amount of new roots to support the new foliage about to grow. If you really need to plant it now, just be aware that the trees will need more attention until next fall. If you can wait, next fall will be better for the plants. Most of the berries (grapes, strawberries, blackberries, and blueberries) can be planted now - see above.

    Prune Fruit Trees

    Actually, pruning later is better than earlier in most cases. So March is often the optimal month. Pruning fruit trees early in their growing years helps to develop a strong trunk and branch structure that can support a fruit load. Select to keep branches that are well spaced and with optimal exposure to sunlight. Branches that receive insufficient sunlight will not be productive. Branches that are not well spaced will improve conditions for disease development. Pruning fruit trees should be done every year to develop structure and to maintain productivity.

    Review Insect Notes

    and monitor for any of the many species of Armored Scale Insects. These insects often look like no more than pinhead-sized bumps on stems and may not even raise a bump. But the insect under this protective armor is sucking plant juices, and fruit trees are a favorite host. One is not a problem. But one eventually can become hundreds or thousands and can result in poor production and plant decline. These scales are easier to look for and observe while the leaves are off. It's also easier to treat them with a horticultural oil on a warm afternoon before the new foliage emerges.

    Prune muscadine grapes.

    As with fruit trees, later is fine. If your grapevines "bleed" when cut, that is not a problem. Sap running out of the plant probably means that insects and disease pathogens are not moving in. Maintain strong single vines with one fruiting spur every 4 to 6 inches. Cut the fruiting spurs back to only 2 to 4 buds per spur. No, that doesn't leave much, but it's entirely enough to make a full crop. Prune annually to keep the vines vigorous.

    Prune blueberry bushes

    As with fruit trees, later is fine. Remove old canes from the bottom as they become less vigorous. Head back more vigorous shoots at 4 to 5 feet to promote branching and to keep the fruit accessible. If there are numerous small shoots or "suckers" growing around the base of the plant, they can be removed. They can also be transplanted if you would like to establish some more plants. Mulch the plants well to suppress weeds.

    Prune blackberry plants

    If you pruned these plants back to about waist high last summer, you should now have a lot of side shoots that will bear the fruit load. Head these shoots back to 12-14 inches to keep the fruit close to the strong main stem. Remove any remaining dead or weak canes. Retain sucker shoots within about 12 inches of the plant crown, but remove those farther away to retain control of the planting.

    Trees & Shrubs

    Finish planting trees and shrubs.

    Woody plants grow roots when soils are cool. If you haven't planted yet, you missed the fall opportunity and the optimal late winter opportunity is almost done. Root growth will deminish as the soil warms through the spring. That means you will have a limited amount of new roots to retrieve water during the stress of summer. If you really need to plant it now, just be aware that trees and shrubs will need more attention until next fall. If you can wait, next fall will be better for the plants.

    Prune.

    If you need to renovate, overhaul, or otherwise do any major pruning, March is great! If you are going to do major pruning, it likely will not look great when you are finished - lots of stem, little foliage. You don't want to look at this embarrassing plant for long. The more you delay (up to the beginning of new growth) the less time it looks really bad. Remember that pruning now will be a stimulus to growth. New growth will cover those stems. And with fewer growing points you can expect the plant to be very large again soon. If the plant is too large for the space, pruning is a short-term solution. Pruning in early summer after the spring growth flush may retard these plants slightly. Do not prune winter or spring flowering plants such as Camellia, Daphne, or Azalea until after they have finished blooming. And no, you do not have to prune anything now. Prune to improve the plant's health, to enhance the shape or appearance, or to affect flower or fruit production. Don't prune just because it's the right time.


    Annual & Perennial Flowers

    Dig and divide or plant new perennials

    The soil is warming slowy now. It may still be cold enough and wet enough to make your hands raw and chapped. But you won't even remember that by next summer when these things are blooming. You can dig, divide, and plant most perennials on a warm afternoon. Try to avoid leaving them out all night unless they are in containers. Even containers with roots above ground should be in a protected area. Recovery is quicker if plants are well watered before planting. Water after planting to ensure good root-to-soil contact. Watch as new growth begins, and water on an as-needed basis.

    Cut back Butterfly bush, Buddleja davidii

    New growth on butterfly bush often makes a larger plant with fewer flowers unless it it pruned. Pruning back around the 6 to 18 inch range forces new growth closer to the crown, a more compact plant, and usually better flower displays. These plants are probably already putting on new growth now. That may affect how much you prune; just remember that by pruning you can determine where the new growth will occur.

    Cut back Ornamental grasses such as

    Fountain grass, Pennisetum alepecuroides or pink muhly, Muhlenbergia capillaris.

    Cut back big blue lilyturf, Liriope muscaria and creeping lilyturf, Liriope spicata

    Removing all the old foliage will keep the plants looking neat. New growth will be emerging from the center of the crown. Avoid damage to these emerging shoots.

    Lawns

    Do not fertilize

    Bermudagrass, Centipedegrass, or Zoysiagrass. There is always a temptation to "push" these grasses to green-up more quickly. Resist all the advertisements and wait until after the grass is completely green before fertilizing. You're less likely to get late frost injury.

    Fertilize fescue lawns, only if on high management programs, at a rate of 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn.

    For most of us, that means no more fertilizer for fescue until Labor Day. Fertilizing in late winter or spring makes fescue lawns more susceptible to disease problems. Unless you're planning to manage for that, avoid fertilizing now. Mow fescue at 3 inches or higher to help reduce weed pressure.

    Apply Pre-emergence herbicides

    for control of weedy grasses such as crabgrass and goosegrass. If you have had problems with weedy grasses in the lawn, pre-emergence herbicides establish a chemical barrier on the soil surface to prevent establishment of weed seedlings but must be applied prior to weed germination. If Forsythia already bloomed, it's probably getting late for complete control but not too late to make application. Be sure to read and follow the label directions exactly in order to avoid injury to the lawn grass.

    Routine Chores

    Mulch can help to moderate soil temperatures as well as reduce moisture loss.

    Mulch helps reduce cold injury to shallow roots. It allows the soil to cool gradually in the fall, moderates extreme cold temperatures, allows warming gradually in spring, and moderates extremes of heat in summer. It also reduces moisture loss to evaporation. And applying mulch is an activity that helps to warm up the gardener without getting your hands wet and dirty. And it helps to cover up the small bits of debris left after cutting back perennials. For the tenderest plants, such as roses or bananas, pile it up to make sure the crown of the plant is well protected. (Remember to rake it back as new growth begins.)

    Soil testing can be done at any time of year.

    Boxes and forms are available at your County Extension Office. This month is one of the busiest for the Agronomic Lab. Check their website for Estimated Processing Time. From now into spring the turnaround time will probably be several weeks. Get samples in as soon as possible for timely reports. For quickest action get them directly to Raleigh yourself rather than leaving them at any local collection point where they may sit for days or weeks. You can mail them to the address on the form or deliver them to the lab in Raleigh. From the State Fairgrounds, go north on Blue Ridge Road. When you see the Art Museum on the right, turn left on Reedy Creek. The lab is about 1/2 mile down Reedy Creek Rd. on the right.

    Things to Watch For

    Watch for cool season weeds

    You've been warned since last fall to watch for weeds such as henbit, chickweed, and hairy bittercress. By this time of year, you may not have to watch for them any more; they may be growing up your legs. And some of them will have obvious flowers. Once they begin to make flowers and seeds, selective post-emergent herbicides will be less effective. That will leave all of us out there hand-weeding together. The good news is that for annual weeds, you don't need to concern yourself with pulling the roots. Just getting the tops will be sufficient. Be careful not to damage the roots of trees and shrubs with the hoe or the trunks and stems with trimmers.

    Watch for Cool Season Mites

    on junipers, arbor vitae, other conifers, azaleas, hollies, and camellias. These mites are often only noticed after the damage is done (interior browning of foliage in early summer) and when the pests are no longer present. If present, they will be very active in March. Use the white paper test to monitor for them. Hold a piece of paper (or even a white glove) under a stem and shake the foliage vigorously. Pause and observe the debris that falls out. Ignore anything that moves quickly. Watch for a speck smaller than a period on this page to begin moving. If you confirm the presence of mites, visit this Insect Note for mangement options.

    Review Insect Notes

    and monitor for any of the many species of Armored Scale Insects. These insects often look like no more than pinhead-sized bumps on stems and may not even raise a bump. But the insect under this protective armor is sucking plant juices. One is not a problem. But one eventually can become hundreds or thousands and can result in plant decline. These scales are easier to look for and observe while the leaves are off. It's also easier to treat them with a horticultural oil on a warm afternoon before the new foliage emerges.




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    Wednesday, November 12, 2008

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