Master Gardener^sm Column for the Week of July 18, 2005
Charlie Spencer
Brunswick County Extension Master Gardener^sm Volunteer

Azalea Lace Bug: These true bugs have lace-like wings and backs. They are found on the undersides of leaves, but cause a blotched or spotted appearance on the upper leaf surface. Black varnish excrement spots appear on the underside of leaves and are characteristic even when adults are absent. Severely infested leaves may yellow and drop prematurely. Winter is spent in the egg stage inserted under leaf veins. Several spray applications will be needed to the underside of leaves at 7-10 day intervals. Begin as soon as nymphs appear in the spring. Orthene, malathion, and Merit are useful.

Bagworms: Bagworms are caterpillars that fashion a case made of silk and attach pieces of the plant on which it feeds. These caterpillars pupate and moths emerge in August and September. Females do not fly and lay their eggs within the bag after mating. The eggs remain in the bag through the winter until hatching in spring. Bagworms are most common on junipers, locusts, and other deciduous trees. Removal of bags by hand is effective any time of the year unless the infested plant is too large to reach all the bags. Picking off bags should take care of the problem within 2-3 years. Insecticides such as Bacillus thuringiensis, Orthene, malathion, and Sevin are most effective against young larvae.

Spruce Spider Mite: This cool-weather mite has a dark, almost black body and pale yellowish brown legs. The males are slightly smaller than the females. The eggs are red or brown and slightly flattened. They have a tiny hair-like spike that sticks up in the center. They feed on junipers, spruce, arborvitae, and other coniferous evergreens. Infested needles turn yellow or brown and may drop prematurely. Heavily infested shrubs may show webbing. Several years of heavy infestation may kill a plant. These mites are active in the cool months of spring and fall and overwinter as eggs. Several sprays may be needed for control and are most effective during the active periods. Insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, Floramite, and Hexagon are some choices.

Southern Red Mite: This is another cool weather mite similar to the spruce mite, except the body is dark red. These mites prefer azaleas, hollies, and camellias, but attack other shrubs. Overwintering eggs are glued to undersides of leaves. Control the same as spruce spider mite.

Aphids: Aphids are slow, fragile insects about 1/16 inch long. They may be in many different colors or appear with waxy threads. They may be winged or wingless. They feed by sucking plant juices from tender leaves and stems of many plants. Injected saliva may cause distorted growth. Excreted waste (honeydew) is a mildly sweet, clear droplet that attracts other insects and supports sooty mold growth. There are many natural parasites and predators. Mechanical removal may be sufficient if practical. Chemical sprays include insecticidal soaps, malathion, Spectracide, and Orthene.

Tea Scale: Tea scale is one of the more common armored scales. These are tiny insects that spend most of their lives hidden beneath a protective cover glued to a plant. The insects may be too small to see easily, but the scale coverings are readily identifiable. Tea scales are soft, white or brown, narrow shaped with a ridge down the middle. The active stage is yellow nymphs, called crawlers, that move around after hatching from eggs. Camellias and Chinese hollies are the most common hosts, but has been reported on euonymous, dogwood, and other plants. The best time to spray is springtime following bloom and after cold weather has passed. Two applications 10 days apart are needed. Horticultural oils are good when foliage is not too tender. Orthene or Dimethoate are other choices. Dimethoate may defoliate some holly so choose another chemical for hollies (Ilex).

Japanese Beetle: These colorful metallic beetles have a voracious appetite for the flowers and the foliage of roses, fruit trees, crape myrtle, and grapes, but will eat almost anything short of the backyard tire swing. Leaf feeding damage is mostly skeletonization. Traps collect many beetles, but may not provide protection for plants. Treating the larval grub stage in the soil may also not give much relief to foliage plants. Sevin is highly effective, but will require repeated sprays every 5-10 days during the active adult season. Hand collecting may also be helpful. Orthene or pyrethroids may be used.

Fall Webworm: Fall webworms occur mostly in the fall and late summer. Fall webworms prefer sourwood, persimmon, and pecan, but attack other hosts. Webbing is found on the terminal areas of branches as the caterpillars defoliate the surrounding area. Damage is usually cosmetic since defoliation late in the season has minimal impact on the tree. Don’t confuse fall webworms with tent caterpillars that inhabit the crotches of trees such as cherry and peach in early spring. Either caterpillar may be controlled by mechanically destroying the web mass if accessible. Burning is not suggested. Sprays of Bacillus thuringiensis are effective while the nests are small. Sevin or other caterpillar sprays should be directed at the foliage closest to the web mass.

Fire Ants: Fire ants are small reddish black ants that feed mostly on soft-bodied insects such as maggots, grubs, and caterpillars. Occasionally, they have been reported consuming fleshy seedlings, buds, or soft tissue plants. These ants build mounds in any type of soil, but seem to prefer open, sunny areas such as lawns and pastures. The above ground part of the mound is only a small portion of the nest which may penetrate three feet. Fire ants are well known for their stings and should be given due respect. A few people can be allergic to stings and have a life-threatening systemic reaction. Control of single mounds is commonly achieved using Amdro bait or chemical drench with Orthene. There are numerous other chemical baits and drenches. Nests may reappear periodically.

*Orthene is being phased out for homeowner use; however, any remaining product may still be used.

Recommendations for the use of chemicals are included in this article as a convenience to the reader. The use of brand names and any mention or listing of commercial products or services in this publication does not imply endorsement by North Carolina State University, North Carolina A&T State University, or the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service nor discrimination against similar products or services not mentioned. Individuals who use chemicals are responsible for ensuring that the intended use complies with current regulations and conforms to the product label. Be sure to obtain current information about usage regulations and examine a current product label before applying any chemical. For assistance, contact the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service.

Send your gardening questions or comments to: Brunswick County Master Gardener Column, P.O. Box 109, Bolivia, NC 28422, or call (910) 253-2610. Enclose a self-addressed stamped envelope if requesting information or a reply. Answers may be printed in this column.

For further information or assistance, please e-mail:
Charlie Spencer, Brunswick County Extension Master Gardener^smVolunteer

Back to the Master Gardener^sm News Column Page of the Brunswick County Center of the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service.

Back to the Home Page of the Brunswick County Center of the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service.

This site is maintained by Kathy Walters.
URL Address: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/brunswick/

Date Created 7/18/2005