Master Gardener^sm Column for the Week of December 13, 2004
Charlie Spencer
Brunswick County Extension Master Gardener^sm Volunteer

The time is here for planting trees and shrubs. Review your existing trees at this time.

Damaged and diseased trees should be cut down, but we need to think about the value of trees in our environment. Trees help provide oxygen, keep our soils from eroding, and keep our yards shady and beautiful. Just remember if you take down a tree, please replant one or two in its place.

When it comes to planting trees, there are some vital steps that must be taken to ensure that the tree you plant will successfully grow and provide years of shade and pleasure.

Choosing a Tree and a Place
Ideally, every tree should be planted in accord with some overall landscape plan that takes into consideration the effect to be achieved, the size of the plants, and the way they are to be pruned and maintained.

Before selecting an exact spot for a tree, determine its size by consulting with the Cooperative Extension Service, your nursery personnel, catalogs, or garden books. Many round-headed trees grow as wide as they grow tall. For example, a tree that grows between 10 and 15 feet tall will commonly spread its branches about the same distance and should be planted about 7-8 feet away from houses or other structures.

Due to their size, shade trees should be placed well away from existing structures. Keep in mind that in the years to come, the tree will sometimes lose branches in storms. For this reason, oaks and other strong-wooded shade trees should be placed at least 20 feet away from buildings and utility lines. Soft-wooded trees such as silver maple should be planted at even greater distances. In relation to one another, large shade trees should be placed at least 50 feet from each other for best results. Medium-sized trees such a red maple or river birch should be spaced about 35 feet apart. Dogwood, redbud, and other small trees may be planted 15-20 feet apart and at least 8 feet from buildings.

Planting Your Tree
Always pick up the tree by the container or root ball and not by the trunk. The ideal time to plant trees is during the dormant season (fall after leafdrop or early spring before bud break). This period of cool weather allows the tree to establish roots in its new location before spring rains and summer heat. However, as long as the tree has been properly cared for in the nursery or garden center, it is acceptable to plant throughout the growing season.

Digging a Hole
It is better to put a $100 tree in a $200 hole than a $200 tree in a $100 hole. Dig a large planting hole. Make sure you have had all underground utilities located prior to digging. Remember, the roots must push through the surrounding soil, so soil should be loosened. Examine the tree closely for injury to roots and branches. Cut roots to the point just in front of the break if they are injured. Prune only broken branches making sure to leave the branch collar (swollen area where one branch meets another). Do not apply high nitrogen fertilizer at planting time: it may burn the roots.

Place the Tree at the Proper Height
Add a sufficient amount of soil to the planting hole to bring the tree to its original growing level. The level is indicated by a dark stain on the trunk which marks the difference between root and trunk bark. Planting at the proper height is important because if a tree is set too deep, its roots may suffocate. On the other hand, if the tree is set too shallow, the roots may dry out in the air and sun.

If the tree is balled or burlapped, cut the string or wire and remove from the hole. Fill the hole by gently firming the earth around the tree to hold it in place and to eliminate air pockets. To avoid problems, settle the soil with water and add soil to the hole until the tree is firmly established. Do not use your feet to tamp around the tree base; too much tamping may compact the soil and inhibit the spread of the roots.

Stake the Tree Only if Necessary
Staking a tree can cause bark damage. However, if staking is necessary, use soft strapping material such as woven belt fabric or padded wire. Drive 2-3 stakes in the ground just outside of the perimeter of the planting hole spacing them at equal distances apart. For each stake, attach one end of the strapping material to the tree at the lowest practical level to maintain it upright and fasten the other end to the stake. As a rule, stakes should not be left in place for more than a year.

Mulch around the base of the tree with 2-4 inches of peat moss, wood chips, pine straw, shredded bark, or leaf litter. This helps conserve moisture and protects newly planted tree roots from hot and cold temperatures.

Since many roots were removed when the tree was dug in the nursery, regular watering is important to aid the development of a strong, new root system in the new site. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently in hot weather. When the soil is dry 4 inches below the surface, it is time to water. Continue watering until mid-fall and then taper off as this is the time for the tree to stop growing and harden for winter.

Send your gardening questions or comments to: Brunswick County Master Gardener Column, P.O. Box 109, Bolivia, NC 28422, or call (910) 253-2610. Enclose a self-addressed stamped envelope if requesting information or a reply. Answers may be printed in this column.

For further information or assistance, please e-mail:
Charlie Spencer, Brunswick County Extension Master Gardener^smVolunteer

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Date Created 12/8/2004