Master Gardener^sm Column for the Week of November 15, 2004
Judy Koehly
Brunswick County Extension Master Gardenersm Volunteer

November and December are perfect months to plant shrubs and trees.

If you are planting a newly purchased tree or shrub be certain to remove all paper, moss, and plastic wrappings and prune any broken or damaged roots. Dig the hole large enough to accommodate the root ball easily--twice its width all the way around. Depth is critical; the tree or shrub should not be planted any deeper than it has been growing. Do not disturb the soil at the bottom of the hole or it will settle, placing the trunk or stem too deep. When you dig the soil, place it on a tarp nearby and remove rocks and other debris. Recent research shows that trees and large shrubs do best when planted in native, unamended soil. Small shrubs placed in beds with perennials will do fine in the amended soil. With a rake or garden fork, loosen the soil on the sides of the hole to encourage root penetration into the surrounding soil. Pour water into the hole to make sure the soil drains well.

Before planting, soak a container-bound plant. When the soil is moist but not soggy, slide or cut off the container. Gently untangle any roots that are visible. Carefully place the tree or shrub in the hole, spreading detangled roots so they don’t encircle the root ball. Fill the hole about halfway with the soil you removed, working it in with your hands to eliminate air pockets. Adjust the trunk of the tree or shrub so it is upright and orient the stems of a shrub as you wish the plant to grow. Fill the hole with water; when it has drained, add the remaining soil, tamping it firmly. You want to get rid of air pockets, but you do not want to compress the soil. Build a small mound of soil around the circumference of the planting hole to help hold water. A generous mulch of chipped bark, compost, or other organic material will retard evaporation. Be careful not to touch the trunk or stem with the mulch. Water deeply until the tree or shrub is established in its new environment (up to a year). Do not fertilize trees during their dormant period.

If you live near the ocean and want to plant a shade tree some good choices are: live oak, laurel oak, white oak, and green ash. If you are looking for fall color try: green ash, scarlet oak, swamp white oak, ginko (male only), and maples. Be aware that intense fall color in maples is determined by early fall temperatures. If you have damp conditions go for bald cypress, southern magnolia, swamp white oak, or sweetbay magnolia. Small trees for near your home include: white fringe, dogwood, trident maple, or Japanese maple. Drought-tolerant trees are: live oak, pin oak, ginko, green ash, scarlet oak, and redbud (forest pansy). Trees that can take light shade are: dogwood, yoshino cherry, river birch, ginko, amur maple, and corkscrew willow. Trees that will grow in medium to dense shade are: American holly, green ash, live oak. wax myrtle, tulip poplar, American linden (or basswood), and scarlet oak.

Send your gardening questions or comments to: Brunswick County Master Gardener Column, P.O. Box 109, Bolivia, NC 28422, or call (910) 253-2610. Enclose a self-addressed stamped envelope if requesting information or a reply. Answers may be printed in this column.

For further information or assistance, please e-mail:
Charlie Spencer, Brunswick County Extension Master Gardener^smVolunteer

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Date Created 11/3/2004