Homespun

May 10, 2000




COMPLIMENTS TO CONDIMENTS!

Condiments are a lot like icing on the cake: you can eat cake without the sweet, fluffy accompaniment, but it isn't nearly as enjoyable. (Don't all you pound cake fans get in a dither, there are exceptions!) Likewise, without relishes, vinegars, ketchups or savory jellies, a sandwich is just a sandwich.

Condiments play a special role in the well-stocked kitchen. You can cook with them but they are at their best when allowed to complement and embellish the flavors in other foods. For example, you might use a nutty, extra virgin olive oil in a chicken stir-fry; but that same oil becomes a condiment when drizzled over fresh baked French bread.

Condiments have gone way beyond tomato ketchup, mustard and a couple of pickle slices on your favorite burger. These days they are fruity, peppery, herbal, creamy or tart. Sometimes, they're simply flavored vinegar.

Americans love to eat tomato ketchup on just about anything: hamburgers, French fries, steaks, chops--even baked potatoes. Don't limit yourself to the usual uses, though. It's great in baked beans, in stew, in marinades, and is delicious whisked into a vinaigrette and tossed with vine-ripened tomatoes and thick slices of red onion.

Tomatoes aren't the only base when preparing ketchup. A ketchup is any vinegar-based, spicy sauce where a vegetable or fruit is the main ingredient.

Another favorite these days is herbal vinegars. Basil, bay leaf, chervil, dill leaves, marjoram, mint, rosemary, tarragon and thyme and ideal as flavor bases. Or, you can combine herbs with citrus fruits berries for another accent. Leaving a sprig of the herb, a thin curl of the fruit peel or a few berries in the vinegar not only identifies the flavor, but adds a homemade touch to your creation.

Homemade relishes are another favorite for preserving summer's bounty. Any fresh produce preserved with vinegar and/or salt is considered a pickles or relish.

Although your favorite raspberry jam or strawberry jelly can dress up a vinaigrette, sweet jellies are not usually considered condiments. Savory jellies - those flavored with herbs, spices and chili peppers - make delicious condiments for your favorite grilled meat, poultry and fish.

So, check your garden plans and perhaps include a few herbs, extra tomatoes, cucumbers, or whatever your taste buds dictate for preserving your own condiments.

BARBECUE KETCHUP

10 pounds tomatoes, peeled, cored and chopped
2 cups chopped onions
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon crushed red pepper
1 tablespoon celery seed
1 1/2 cups brown sugar
1 tablespoon dry mustard
2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 teaspoons mace
1 teaspoon ginger
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 cup vinegar, 5% acidity
1/3 cup lemon juice

Prepare home canning jars and lids according to manufacturer's instructions.

Combine tomatoes, onions, garlic, crushed red pepper and celery seed in a large saucepot. Simmer, covered, until vegetables are soft, about 30 minutes. Put tomato mixture through sieve or food mill and press out liquid and pulp. Discard seeds. Return tomato mixture to a large saucepot and cook, uncovered, until reduced by half. Add remaining ingredients. Cook over low heat until mixture thickens; stir frequently to prevent sticking. Carefully ladle hot ketchup into hot jars, leaving 1/4-inch headspace. Place lid on jar. Screw band down evenly and firmly.

Process 20 minutes in a boiling-water canner. Yield: about 3 pints.


HERBED APPLE JELLY
3 cups apple juice
1 package commercial fruit pectin
2 four-inch sprigs fresh herbs (basil, rosemary, thyme or mint)
4 1/2 cups sugar

Prepare home canning jars and lids according to manufacturer's instructions. Jars must be covered with water and boiled 10 minutes to sterilize.

Combine apple juice and pectin in a large saucepot. Tie herbs in a cheesecloth bag and add to juice mixture. Bring mixture to a boil over high heat. Add sugar and return to a rolling boil. Boil hard for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Discard cheesecloth bag. Remove from heat and skim foam, if necessary. Carefully ladle hot jelly into hot sterilized jars, leaving 1/4-inch headspace. Place lid on jar. Screw band down evenly and firmly.

Process 5 minutes in a boiling-water canner. Yield: about four 8-ounce jars.


SWEET LEMON MINT VINEGAR
3 lemons
1 1/2 cups mint leaves
3/4 cup sugar
6 cups vinegar, 5% acidity
Prepare home canning jars and lids according to manufacturer's instructions.

Remove peel from lemons, using only the colored portion. Reserve lemon pulp for another use. Lightly crush mint leaves. Combine sugar and vinegar in a saucepan. Bring mixture to a simmer, 180 degrees F, and heat until sugar dissolves. Place peel from 1 lemon and 1/2 cup mint leaves into a hot pint jar. Carefully ladle vinegar over lemon peel and mint, leaving 1/4- inch headspace. Adjust cap. Let stand, in a cool place, 3 to 4 weeks for flavors to develop. Strain vinegar. Discard lemon peel and mint. Bring vinegar to a simmer, 180 degrees F. Carefully ladle hot flavored vinegar into hot jar, leaving 1/4- inch headspace. Place a new, heated lid on jar. Screw band down evenly and firmly.

Process 10 minutes in a boiling-water canner. Yield: about 3 pints.

Note: Fresh lemon peel and mint may be added, for appearance, before filling jar for processing. Use vinegar within 4 months.


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