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by Rett Davis | |
Gardening Q&A by Rett Davis appears in
Alamance County's daily newspaper, The Times-News,
every Sunday in the Accent section. Each week's installment is
posted to this
website, beginning with January of this year. Scroll to the bottom of
this page to navigate to other Gardening Q&As. Please contact
Rett via e-mail with questions
or
comments in regard to this column.
Question:
Last year I had these small bags hanging on my Leyland cypress. I opened some up yesterday an they were empty. Is this something I should worry about?
Answer:
Those bags indicate the presence of an insect called a bagworm. This unusual caterpillar develops a silken bag out of the twigs and needles it consumes. As the catepillar grows so does the bag. Although you may not see them due to their very small size now, they are there. Trust me. Start spraying now while they are much easier to control. You can choose from several insecticides such as Talstar (bifenthrin), Orthene (acephate), Sevin (carbaryl), malathion, Conserve (spinosad)., or Dipel. Thorough spraying of the entire tree or shrub is needed. Spray again in 2 weeks. Bagworms will kill most trees and shrubs if left untreated. Their favorite plants are Leyland cypress, arborvitae, and most junipers.
Question:
I read in the paper how much worse poison ivy is this year due to air pollution. I have also noticed more of it on my property and in my trees. How is the best way to control this?
Answer:
My recommendations for control depend on your situation. I f you have acreage with roadways and fence lines to treat, then I would recommend foliar treatment with the herbicide Crossbow or Roundup. The generic Roundups or glyphosates work just as well and will save you money. If your problem is just around the home, then you can purchase the ready mixed Roundup, Brush Killer (triclophyr)( or Ortho's Poison Ivy Killer (triclopry). Spray the leageves to the point of runoff. You can also buy the concentrate forms of Roundup or products that contain triclopyr. For vines that climb trees you need not spray the leaves at all. Instead cut a section of the vine out with either a saw or pruning loppers. Within 10 minutes of making this crut, pour undiluted concentrated Roundup, rush Killer, Crowwbow, or Poison Ivy killer on the fresh cut stump. These systemic herbicides will enter the stump and control the roots. The top part will die on its own.
Question:
Is it true you should pinch off the first flowers that appear on the tomato plant? I have been told this will make the rest of the tomatoes bigger.
Answer:
I hear this reommendation periodically and wonder why you want to be the last one in your neighborhood to have fresh tomatoes. Unless you like delayed gratification, don't pinch off the first flowers. The frist fruit to form is always teh largest and earliest. I think someone is getting their wires crossed with 'suckering' tomatoes. Syuckering refers to the removal of the shoot that appears between the stem of the tomato and the leaf. Within this right angle of stem and leaf petiole, a shoot will appear. Pinching off the one closest to teh ground and the next one above it is often done to increase the size of hte tomatoes. The removal of two suckers is genreally enough. Leave the rest of them to provide additional fruit and much needed shade to the tomato fruits in late summer.
Question:
Some of our rose blooms will not open Orhters are turning brown around the edges of the bloom. What is wrong?
Answer:
Very small insects called flower thrips love to feed on the petals of roses. Their rasping mouhtparts tear the tender petals and cause them to turn brown. They can also keep buds from opening. You must apply weekly applications of an insecticide to control thrips. There are many fine products on the market that wil work. Purchase one of the "All in One" or "Complete Rose Care" products that contain both insecticides and fungicides and spray weekly . If you just want an insecticide use either Conserve (Spinosad) or BotaniGard.
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