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by Rett Davis | |
Gardening Q&A by Rett Davis appears in
Alamance County's daily newspaper, The Times-News,
every Sunday in the Accent section. Each week's installment is
posted to this
website, beginning with January of this year. Scroll to the bottom of
this page to navigate to other Gardening Q&As. Please contact
Rett via e-mail with questions
or
comments in regard to this column.
Question:
I put out crabgrass preventer on my lawn in March. Since we have had all this rain should I put out some more?
Answer:
The crabgrass preventers that are mixed with fertilizer
generally last no more than 8-10 weeks. Excessive rains can shorten
that period. Crabgrass preventers that were applied March 15 will be
playing out by the end of this month. In order to prevent crabgrass
germination throughout the remainder of the summer, you will need to
reapply a pre emergent crabgrass herbicide once more. However, if you
have a fescue lawn, you do not want to use a crabgrass preventer mixed
with fertilizer. It is strongly recommended not to fertilizer fescue
this late in the growing season. Crabgrass preventers without
fertilizer are available and are sold as Crabex, Team, Balan, and
Pre-M. Do not use a crabgrass preventer if you overseeded you lawn
this spring. If you have a bermuda grass (wiregrass) lawn you can apply
a crabgrass preventer with a fertilizer. Professional lawn care
services usually apply season long crabgrass control products with one
application in the spring.
Question:
My lawn is mostly bermudagrass. I believe it could look
better if I fertilized it but I don't know when and what products to
use? What would you suggest?
Answer:
After 5 years of drought, more and more lawns are being
converted to bermuda grass intentionally and naturally. Since we live
in an area where fescue reigns supreme, few homeowners know how to
manage bermudagrass (wiregrass). Most residents here despise it.
However the attributes of this grass far outweigh it's disadvantages.
Bermudagrass should receive it's first fertilization around mid-May
after it has fully greened up. You can use quick release fertilizers
such as 10-10-10, 12-12-12, or 17-17-17 for faster spring greenup. I
would reapply a slow release fertilizer about 6 weeks later. This will
keep the lawn green throughout most of the growing season. Do not
fertilize bermuda after August 15th. During the spring and summer spray
out broadleaf weeds with a broadleaf herbicide. You do not need a reel
mower to make this grass look its best. A rotary mower set to a mowing
height of 1 1/2 inches and mowed weekly will give you a very high
quality lawn. Bagging the clippings is not necessary but will greatly
improve it's looks. Mow every 5 to 7 days. If bermuda grass invades
flower and shrub beds, use Vantage, Ornamec, or Poast to control it
without fear of killing your ornamentals.
Question:
The leaves on our azaleas are losing their color fast. The
once green leaves are speckled and turning white. What is happening?
Answer:
Azalea lace bugs are rampant this year. These small insects
with lace like wings are feeding on the underside of the azalea leaf.
Turn the leaf over and you will find black specks attached to the leaf.
This is their excrement. Lace bugs are active from March until December
in our area. Controlling their population early in the growing season
is recommended. Unfortunately one spraying will not be enough.
Homeowners can use Cygon, malathion, Sevin, Isotox, or cyfluthrin.
Merit can be used systemically and applied only once for season long
control. Organic controls are limited to insecticidial soap. Spray the
underside of the leaves thoroughly once a week for 2 sprayings. Repeat
on a monthly basis or as needed. Refertilize your azaleas to restore
it's green coloration.
Question:
For the last few weeks I have noticed a strange growth on my
sasanqua camellias and now it is spreading to my azaleas. Some of the
leaves are lime green in color and rubbery like. They are also swollen
and twisted. What is happening?
Answer:
This is called leaf gall. It is caused by a plant fungus that
infects the plants in early spring. It will not kill either plant.
Prolonged periods of cool and wet weather allows this leaf disease to
spread. Although it looks dreadful, the plants will not be seriously
impacted. You can remove the galls by hand if you have nothing better
to do. If you do, put the infected leaves in a bag and throw away.
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If you have any horticultural questions, please direct them to Rett Davis