Gardening Q&A July 20 2003

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GARDENING Q&A
by Rett Davis
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Gardening Q&A by Rett Davis appears in Alamance County's daily newspaper, The Times-News, every Sunday in the Accent section. Each week's installment is posted to this website, beginning with January of this year. Scroll to the bottom of this page to navigate to other Gardening Q&As. Please contact Rett via e-mail with questions or comments in regard to this column.

July 20, 2003

Question:
Just as I was about to pick the best plum crop I have ever had, the fruit is falling off and rotting. What is happening?

Answer:
This is the number one disease problem on peaches and plums. Brown rot is a very destructive disease especially during wet periods. The initial infection from this fungus begins during the blooming period. The most destructive phase is on the fruit. As the fruit matures the disease gets more destructive. Infected blossoms, twigs, and fruits soon become covered with gray-brown tufts of spores. The brown rot fungus will overwinter on mummified fruit on the ground or tree. It is obviously a lost cause for this year. But for next year, be prepared to spray a fungicide. Spray the entire tree, fruit, twigs, leaves and all. I would recommend using a product containing myclobutanil (Immunox). Spray according to label recommendations. Begin spraying during blooming and continue every 10-14 days until harvest. The waiting period between spraying and harvest is on the label. In the meantime rake up all fallen fruit and remove all unwanted fruit from the tree.

Question:
We had an entire new landscape installed two weeks ago. Now we have crabgrass coming up through the pine needle mulch. If something is not done now, it will be all grass in a matter of weeks. It is very difficult to hand weed it all because of the mulch. What can we do?

Answer:
I would use a grass herbicide such as Vantage, Ornamec, or Poast. These products do a great job on grasses. They will not harm your new shrubs or flowers even if you accidentally spray them. Some of the grasses such as bermuda or wiregrass will actually grow into the shrubs making it hard to hand remove. However, the grass herbicides will not harm broadleaf plants. Unfortunately broadleaf weeds will not be harmed either. Just grass is susceptible to these herbicides. One word of caution, when temperatures are above 85 degrees and the humidity is that high too, these chemicals will cause some burning to broadleaf leaves. Therefore, spray these chemicals on predicted cooler days and in the late evening if your spray will come in contact with the foliage of desirable plants.

Question:
The bottom leaves of my tomato plants are yellowing. I switched to newer varieties this year hoping to avoid all these tomato disease. Why is it not working?

Answer:
Because there are no varieties resistant to all the tomato diseases. A quick check in my 'Tomato Disease' manual lists 55 diseases and disorders of tomatoes. A majority can be found in Alamance County during each growing season. I doubt you will ever see a tomato variety with all that resistance. There are many diseases that cause yellowing of tomato leaves. The most common is one called 'early blight'. There are no varieties immune to this disease. Some will vary in their resistance. Our most popular variety, German Johnson, catches every disease that floats by. But we still plant them because they taste so good. It is a sacrifice most are willing to make. If you want to follow a schedule of spraying various fungicides religiously you can protect your plants from many of the tomato diseases. But few homeowners have the time to commit to this practice. Spraying should start the day the plants are planted and continue all the way through harvest. Homeowners also have a general fear of pesticides. Organic growers will use copper sprays, mulched plants, and drip irrigation. It helps, but the disease still will appear. If you wish you can pinch off the most infected leaves. Lastly, don't plant all your tomatoes at the same time. Stagger your plantings every 3 weeks so you will have tomatoes up to frost.


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