
![]() |
by Rett Davis | ![]() |
Gardening Q&A by Rett Davis appears in
Alamance County's daily newspaper, The Burlington Times-News,
every Sunday in the Accent section. Each week's installment is
posted to this
website, beginning with January 1998. Scroll to the bottom of
this page to navigate to other Gardening Q&As. Please contact
Rett via e-mail with questions
or
comments in regard to this column.
Answer:
Maples and birches are notorious for 'bleeding'
when pruned this close to spring. I have seen dogwoods do the
same. Although unattractive, research has shown that this amount
of sap loss does not have any negative impact on tree growth.
The tree will not 'bleed' to death. There is nothing that you
can do to stop it at this point. Pruning paint and sealants are
not needed. The sap flow will decrease when the tree leafs out
in late spring. From now on, prune maples in January or February
or wait until early summer.

Answer:
Time is running out for this project. New
growth will be emerging from the ground in just a few weeks. I
would dig the clumps out and divide with an axe or hatchet. Then
get them back in the ground and water thoroughly. Be sure to
remove the old leaves to within an inch or two from the ground
before dividing.
Question:
I want to set out some blueberry plants this
spring. What varieties do the best in our area?
Answer:
You should plant either Rabbiteye varieties or
Southern Highbush varietes. Some of the best Rabbiteye varieties
are Tifblue, Climax, Premier, Tifblue, Powderblue, and Centurion.
Of the Southern Highbush varieties, choose from Blue Ridge and
Legacy. I would recommend that a majority of your blueberry
plantings be the Rabbiteye varities.
Question:
All winter long I have noticied that many of my
rhododendron plants have leaves that are drooping downward. Does
this mean that they need more fertilizer or is it because we have
had a dry winter?
Answer:
When the leaves of rhododendron droop
downward it usually indicates the plant is dying. If recent
rains or additioinal watering did not revive the leaves, then the
presence of root rotting organisms is almost always certain.
Rhododendrons are very particular when it comes to a suitable
soil to grow in. Our native clay soils present many problems for
these plants. These soils retain too much water which prevents
these plants from rooting and will often lead to their decline.
Rhododendrons will thrive in well drained topsoils in light
shade. Plantings often require a raised bed using a high quality
topsoil. When these plants droop it is time to replace them.
However you cannot replace them with more rhododendrons or their
relatives, the azaleas. Other shade loving plants that would do
well there include hosta, Lenten roses, coralbelles, ferns,
nandina, mahonia, sasanqua camellia, and spirea.
ATTENTION LANDSCAPERS AND GROUNDSKEEPERS
You are invited to a demonstration of the Burch Wet Blade
herbicide application equipment on March 14th. It will be on the
farm of Meg and Robert Phipps. The demonstration will begin at
10 am. A sponsored lunch will be provided by the Burch Company.
This equipment is used for controlling brush, small trees, and
unwanted growth. Take exit 150 off I-40 between Burlington and
Hillsborough. Go south on Jimmy Kerr Road for 1 mile to the
intersection with Cherry Lane. Turn left on Cherry Lane and
travel 0.60 of a mile. The farmhouse is on the left.
Continue to the next
installment
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If you have any horticultural questions, please direct them to Rett Davis