Gardening Q&A March 10, 2002

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GARDENING Q&A
by Rett Davis
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Gardening Q&A by Rett Davis appears in Alamance County's daily newspaper, The Burlington Times-News, every Sunday in the Accent section. Each week's installment is posted to this website, beginning with January 1998. Scroll to the bottom of this page to navigate to other Gardening Q&As. Please contact Rett via e-mail with questions or comments in regard to this column.

March 10, 2002

Question:
I cut several limbs off of my sugar maple last weekend. Now the tree is bleeding and it is running down the trunk. Is my tree in danger of dying and how can I stop the bleeding?

Answer:
Maples and birches are notorious for 'bleeding' when pruned this close to spring. I have seen dogwoods do the same. Although unattractive, research has shown that this amount of sap loss does not have any negative impact on tree growth. The tree will not 'bleed' to death. There is nothing that you can do to stop it at this point. Pruning paint and sealants are not needed. The sap flow will decrease when the tree leafs out in late spring. From now on, prune maples in January or February or wait until early summer.

Liriope
Question:
Is it too late to divide monkey grass clumps?

Answer:
Time is running out for this project. New growth will be emerging from the ground in just a few weeks. I would dig the clumps out and divide with an axe or hatchet. Then get them back in the ground and water thoroughly. Be sure to remove the old leaves to within an inch or two from the ground before dividing.

Question:
I want to set out some blueberry plants this spring. What varieties do the best in our area?

Answer:
You should plant either Rabbiteye varieties or Southern Highbush varietes. Some of the best Rabbiteye varieties are Tifblue, Climax, Premier, Tifblue, Powderblue, and Centurion. Of the Southern Highbush varieties, choose from Blue Ridge and Legacy. I would recommend that a majority of your blueberry plantings be the Rabbiteye varities.

Question:
All winter long I have noticied that many of my rhododendron plants have leaves that are drooping downward. Does this mean that they need more fertilizer or is it because we have had a dry winter?

Answer:
When the leaves of rhododendron droop downward it usually indicates the plant is dying. If recent rains or additioinal watering did not revive the leaves, then the presence of root rotting organisms is almost always certain. Rhododendrons are very particular when it comes to a suitable soil to grow in. Our native clay soils present many problems for these plants. These soils retain too much water which prevents these plants from rooting and will often lead to their decline. Rhododendrons will thrive in well drained topsoils in light shade. Plantings often require a raised bed using a high quality topsoil. When these plants droop it is time to replace them. However you cannot replace them with more rhododendrons or their relatives, the azaleas. Other shade loving plants that would do well there include hosta, Lenten roses, coralbelles, ferns, nandina, mahonia, sasanqua camellia, and spirea.

ATTENTION LANDSCAPERS AND GROUNDSKEEPERS

You are invited to a demonstration of the Burch Wet Blade herbicide application equipment on March 14th. It will be on the farm of Meg and Robert Phipps. The demonstration will begin at 10 am. A sponsored lunch will be provided by the Burch Company. This equipment is used for controlling brush, small trees, and unwanted growth. Take exit 150 off I-40 between Burlington and Hillsborough. Go south on Jimmy Kerr Road for 1 mile to the intersection with Cherry Lane. Turn left on Cherry Lane and travel 0.60 of a mile. The farmhouse is on the left.


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