Gardening Q&A June 23, 2002

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GARDENING Q&A
by Rett Davis
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tools

Gardening Q&A by Rett Davis appears in Alamance County's daily newspaper, The Burlington Times-News, every Sunday in the Accent section. Each week's installment is posted to this website, beginning with January 1998. Scroll to the bottom of this page to navigate to other Gardening Q&As. Please contact Rett via e-mail with questions or comments in regard to this column.

June 23, 2002

Question:
A recent wind storm split my Bradford pear in half. I have removed the broken part. What can I do to save this tree?

Answer:
As much as you like this tree, I would go ahead and cut it down. What is left now is a lopsided tree with a large wound on one side. That wound will begin to decay in 2-3 years regardless of any tree wound dressing or paint you put on it. In addition, the weight of the tree is now concentrated on one side making this tree more prone to being blown over. One sided trees aren't very attractive either.

Question:
This prolonged drought is having some effect on my older Japanese hollies. I have noticed some leaves beginning to yellow. They are well mulched and are probably 10 years old. Should I be watering them and if so, how often?

Answer:
Many older shrubs and trees are showing the effects from months of low rainfall. Tulip poplars, river birch, dogwoods and many others are dropping leaves and are beginning to wilt. Watering them is almost impractical. Deciduous landscape plants such as beautybush, wiegelia, forsythia, and others are wilted. Evergreen shrubs are showing drought stress by dropping leaves. I would purchase soaker hoses to maximize water usage and place them at the base of shrubs. Run these hoses about every 2-3 weeks to maintain soil moisture. Replenish mulch around shrubs to a depth of 3-4 inches to reduce soil drying. Do not fertilize any trees, shrubs, or lawns at this time.

Question:
I had my lawn sodded last fall. I am watering everyday in order to save it. Now some of the grass is turning gray. What should I do?

Answer:
Grass does not need to be watered daily. The exceptions are usually associated with golf greens. Grass that was sodded in the fall is well rooted by now. Daily watering of sod is done only the first two weeks after it has been laid. Your overwatering has caused an increase in leaf diseases, molds, and algae. In addition the roots of the plants will not venture very deep into the soil and will remain shallow. I would back off this daily frequency of watering slowly and aim toward a 5-6 day cycle. The molds and algae will begin to disappear as the soil drys out.

Question:
I have a rather large garden and must irrigate from a well. I am worried about the well going dry. How much water needs to be applied to vegetables every week?

Answer:
Because vegetables are more than 90% water, they demand at least one inch of water a week. It is hard to apply one inch of water at one time, it is best to split the application during the week. Watering twice a week is a good rule of thumb. Measure the amounts you apply by placing bowls or pans around the garden. Do not water daily. You are not raising aquatic plants. If possible mulch your vegetables with any organic form of mulch; wheat straw, newpapers, grass clippings, compost, etc. If you have a shallow well I would consider halting all irrigation of vegetables, flowers, and lawn. We have heard reports of wells that are 180 feet in depth going dry.

Question:
My fescue lawn is almost totally brown. Will it come back?

Answer:
No absolutes on this. In my opinion all lawns sowed this spring to fescue will more than likely die. Fescue planted on poorly prepared soils, soils that are compacted, and soils that have no topsoil regardless of age, will also succumb. Fescue that is well established and in good deep fertile soils will be fine and will recover with the return of rainfall.


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