Gardening Q&A August 25, 2002

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GARDENING Q&A
by Rett Davis
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tools

Gardening Q&A by Rett Davis appears in Alamance County's daily newspaper, The Times-News, every Sunday in the Accent section. Each week's installment is posted to this website, beginning with January 1998. Scroll to the bottom of this page to navigate to other Gardening Q&As. Please contact Rett via e-mail with questions or comments in regard to this column.

August 25, 2002

Question:
My geraniums have almost quit blooming. Upon closer examination I have found the flower buds to be full of worms. What kind of worms are they and what can I do to control them?

Answer:
The larvae of the corn earworm attacks several flowering plants in late summer. Although better known for its appetite for sweet corn, this insect pest will feed on the flowers and buds of flowers. The field crops they previously fed on are no longer attractive to them in late season. A few sprayings with either Sevin or Isotox will put a stop to them. Space your sprays about 5 days apart.

Question:
My mimosa tree has begun to wilt. I have tried to water the tree but with little results. Only a few of the limbs are wilted. However I have also noticed a yellow sap coming out of the bark. What is wrong and can this tree be saved.

Answer:
Your tree is infected with a disease called 'mimosa wilt'. It is the most serious disease of mimosa and will kill the tree. Individual limbs will begin to wilt in mid-summer The leaves on the remaining limbs will yellow but not wilt. Symptoms will spread throughout the tree. Some trees die immediately while others take all summer. A gel-like gum will exude from the bark. It is often smells sweet. The disease that causes this wilt lives in the soil. There are no chemical controls nor are there any resistant cultivators of mimosa. Few mimosa live beyond 10 years of age in our area. Fortunately this tree is a prolific seeder. Many seedlings can often be found near a mimosa tree. Identify one now and put a ribbon on it. Transplant it this winter to another location on our property.

Question:
I went to your web site and looked up the current fescue varieties recommended by N.C. State University. I took the list to a local garden store and could not find any of them. Why are they so hard to find here and what else would you recommend?

Answer:
Since the Cooperative Extension Service is part of N.C. State University, and we do much of the testing, my recommendations would be the same. You will find many our our recommended fescues at local garden stores. What is confusing is that much of the lawn grass seeds are in blends. The blends are sold under a wide array of tradenames. It is confusing. You must read the seed tag to see what fescues are in the blend . For instance a blend such as 'Carolina Mix' may contain Wolfpack and Tarheel. Both of these are recommended by NCSU. So take the recommended list of fescues and go shopping. Read the seed tag. I would try to have at least 2 of the recommended fescues in a blend. In addition, purchase seed with at least 85% germination or better, no noxious weeds, and seed that has a test date within the last 6 months. Avoid fescue seed blends that contain annual rye grass. I have a list of recommended fescues that can be obtained by calling me at 570-6740.

Question:
I was told that I must inoculate clover if I expect any decent growth from it. My intentions are to plant clover in a field as a winter cover crop and to attrack deer. What is meant by the term inoculate clover?

Answer:
Many legumes are used as cover crops for both winter and summer. Legumes are plants that can actually remove nitrogen from the air and use it as fertilizer. In order to do so, a nitrogen fixing bacteria must be present in the soil. This bacteria attaches itself to the roots of the legumes to form nodules. From these nodules the bacteria extract nitrogen from the air. To inoculate a plant means to mix the appropriate bacteria with the seed. Particular legumes require specific species of Rhizobia. Rhizobia is the bacteria. This is what you inoculate the plant with. Some clovers are pre-inoculated. Most are not. You must buy the appropriate inoculate specifically suited for each lequme. It is sold separately in a small bag. It will be a black powder. Check the expiration date before purchase. Place your seed in a bucket and pour the inoculate over it. Add to this a solution of four parts water and one part sugar that has been stirred together before pouring. This will make a slurry that allows the innonulant to stick to the seed. Stir everything together so every seed gets coated. Do not make your slurry to soupy or the seed will take hours to dry. Do not place the seed in the sun to dry. Hopefully the seed will dry within an hour and will be ready to sow. Not all legumes use the same innoculant. For clover use Rhiozobium trifolii.

MASTER GARDENERS Our 2002 class of Master Gardeners are in the Agricultural Building on Tuesday and Thursday mornings from 9 until 12 to help answer your gardening questions. There are usually 2 Master Gardeners at the phones ready to assist you. If I am on an appointment and or not available , please ask for a Master Gardener to assist you.


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